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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / vehicle surge protection
- - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-18-2004 13:12
I run a portable welding business, and I have a workbench that attaches into the trailer receiver on the rear of my truck. It's all metal so that I can attach the ground clamp from the welder to it and anything I place on the table is grounded and ready for welding.

Everytime I use this table I disconnect the truck's negative battery cable so that I don't damage electronic components on the truck. (I learned this the hard way!)

Does anyone know of any device, short of a battery disconnect switch, that will protect the trucks electronics during welding operations? Disconnecting the battery works fine, but I have to reset the radio, clock, etc., everytime I disconnect my battery, and I'd like to find a way to avoid this. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

chaikwa.
Parent - - By RonG (****) Date 10-18-2004 16:02
I don't know of any such device. But would like to offer a thought.

Would it be possible (practical) to put insulators between the truck and the work bench?
Parent - By qcmike (**) Date 10-18-2004 17:05
Great idea Ron. I would think home depot would have nylon washers and bolt sleaves to insulate the trailer hitch from the work bench.
Parent - - By thirdeye (***) Date 10-18-2004 18:59
I don't think any of the rig welders I work around have any kind of protection system or a battery disconnect on their trucks. Most have a dedicated work area on the rear of the bed and they do welding right there. What kind of damage have you done to your electronic system in the past?
Parent - - By OSUtigger (**) Date 10-18-2004 20:00
I kinda gotta agree with thirdeye on this one. The only way you can fry any sort of electroinic system is to allow the electronic system to be the easiest way to get the current from one place to another. If your hitch is the only contact point to the truck and the welding and ground are both hooked to the table, then current must first follow the table down TO the hitch, through some sort of electronics, then BACK THROUGH the hitch. Perhaps grounding on the front bumper while welding on the table isn't too good of an idea, but circuits just don't take meandering paths for the fun of it. I weld on my all steel trailer all the time while it is hooked to my truck, and never had trouble, and for all practical purposes, this is the same setup as a trailer hitch table. There is far more risk in the bed setup due to copper wiring running lights, but even then, because the beds are built correctly and the wire is insulated correctly, I also have never heard of problems with flatbed rigs either.
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-18-2004 22:25
OSUtigger; Your theory sounds good and I would tend to agree with you, but I fried 3 throttle position sensors before I realized what was happening. Now I disconnect the 2 wires that run to that unit as well as the negative battery cable and I haven't had any problems since. Kind of inconvenient tho.

On some of the newer trucks I've put bodies on or done modifications to, I've seen stickers on the frame rails next to the battery boxes warning of potential electronics problems if the batteries are not disconnected before welding is performed.

Ron; You're right, insulating the work table would be the best way to accomplish what I want, but I haven't figured out HOW yet. My work table is a piece of 3/4" plate welded to a 2" piece of tubing that slides in the trailer receiver. I can't think of how I could insulate the 2" tube and still have it fit into the 2 1/2" receiver. I could use a smaller tube then insulate it I guess, but it would have to be pretty rugged material as I put a lot of strain on the work table at times.

I found a website that explains about surge problems and welding on trucks, but they don't offer any solutions except to say "use a good surge protector...". If I can find that site again I'll post the URL.

Thanks for all the replies!

chaikwa.
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-18-2004 22:33
I couldn't find the website again, thought I saved it in my favorites, but what I DID do was save the text of the article, so here it is if anyone is interested:

Protect your vehicle from costly damage
In our discussion of welding earlier we talked about the need to protect yourself and your surroundings from the effects of welding. However, you also need to protect your vehicle since all and any electronic devices within it can be damaged during welding. Such devices include the alternator, car alarm, CD player, Radio, Air bag system, Engine management system and the multitude of sensors that feed them.
These are at risk not from the normal voltage and current given out by a welder during use, but instead from the very large voltage spike that occurs unavoidably when the arc is switched off
This spike occurs because the high current path through the welding cables, the weld pool and the arc itself will set up a significant electromagnetic field around itself. When this field collapses very suddenly as the Arc is switched off it will induce a voltage pulse in nearby electrical circuits even if they are electrically isolated from the actual welding current path.
The size of this pulse is determined by a whole host of factors but long connecting cables are particularly good at suffering from this induction effect, hence the need to disconnect them from sensitive circuits.
The welder's transformer itself also generates a big spike as its electromagnetic field collapses when the arc is switched off. This is directly carried into the component being welded and so distributed to anything connected to it.
Some mechanics disconnect the battery during welding in the mistaken belief this will protect those sensitive systems on the vehicle from voltage spikes. Others think that positioning the welding earth clamp near to the weld will offer protection.
In fact neither of these methods makes any difference to the voltage spikes ability to cause irreparable damage. The only way to guarantee protection is therefore one of three ways in order of effectiveness:
1. Remove the object to be welded from the vehicle and weld it before refitting it.
2. Fit a surge protection device.
3. Disconnect all sensitive equipment from long connecting cables.
Having said all this, welding a vehicle without taking such precautions doesn't mean it will always be damaged.
It does however mean you are risking damage and given the cost of replacing components such as the alternator, car alarm, CD player, Radio, Air bag system, Engine management system you have to ask yourself whether it’s a risk that is really worth taking.
By the way, if you are having someone else weld the vehicle for you, always check everything works before you give them the vehicle and mention this to them before they start work. If something doesn't work when you get the vehicle back you'll know whom to blame.
Parent - By uglyjeep Date 10-18-2004 23:12
I have an underhood welding system on our rockcrawling jeep and we've done a lot of welding repairs over the years on freinds vehicles or on our own. Whenever possible we always try and remove the part to be welded from the vehicle, but at times this is not always possible, especially when we are welding on our own vehicle that is running the welder. My brother bought me a neat device from the Snap-On guy for christmas years back; it's a 12 volt surge protector that clips onto the battery terminals and helps to protect against voltage surges caused by jump starting, welding and plasma cutting operations. It is Blue Point part number YA100. A neat, compact little tool with a LED to let you know if it's hooked up correctly. All I can say is that in about ten years of welding on various vehicles out on the trail with it we haven't had any electrical problems that I can contribute to the welding so far, could be that we are just lucky, or perhaps the little bugger is doing it's job. So maybe it'll help you with your situation.
Parent - - By OSUtigger (**) Date 10-18-2004 23:46
Chaikwa,

What you are worried about is pretty interesting, and I must admit that if it is what I am thinking it is, then you are playing by a whole new set of rules. First off, let me say that if I am correct, what is being experienced is a sort of electromagnetic pulse. If I am wrong, someone please excuse my ignorance, as it will not be the first time, and if it's the last then I'm doomed to never learn anything new. EMP is a whole different ballgame because it does not depend on conduction to exist like you would think of normal electricity, but more on space. EMPs radiated (through thin air) hit the cables then surge down the line as albeit normal but small voltages (it would take a large incident to produce anything with high enough voltage to fry simple 12V systems) until they die out. My pickup is a '91, and is the newest vehicle I have ever owned, and therefore, does not have very much that runs off anything other than 12 volts. Newer pickups, however, use tiny voltages to relay info to processors such as in throttle controls (gimme a carburetor or simple diesel injection anyday rather than a computer!). This is why your pickup is succeptible, again, if EMPs are what is to blame.

Now, for the solution: I know only of one form of surge protector for such a case, though there may be more. It involves a light-emitting diode and a light sensitive receptor. As the voltage is pushed through the LED, the light shines into the receptor. However, the receptor can only pickup a certain amount of light, therefore limiting the voltage on the pickup to a maximum amount and you would fry the diode before you fry the computer. Problem is, I don't know if they are available, easy to wire in, or expensive. This one was used on a fairly complex circuit board for use in extreme circumstances, and the unit itself was very expensive.

Anyway, hope that helps and good luck!
G. L.

Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-19-2004 01:35
Hey! Thanks again for the replies!

My truck is a 93 Dodge with the Cummins diesel, hardly new either, but the few electronic parts that ARE on it, are expensive as all heck to replace. That stupid little TPS I mentioned goes for $130.00, so I try anything I can to avoid having to replace stuff like that.

I'm going to see if I can find one of those LED surge suppresors. I KNOW I've seen the things somewhere, I just can't remember where.

Thanks again!

chaikwa.
Parent - By - Date 10-19-2004 04:11
This may sound a little nuts, but here in the corrosion belt, we find a lot of vehicle electronics problems are caused by corroded grounds.
Many GM windshield wiper motors get replaced because of broken or corroded grounds.
Electronics, such as TPS units live in a gasket seperated environment from the main engine ground, and become succeptable to damage for the lack of a good ground.
Many of these problems can be solved by adding grounding jumpers, and chances are the same would apply to welding.
Parent - By billvanderhoof (****) Date 10-19-2004 05:58
It sounds like the device being described is an opto-isolator. Used to signal one device from another where one contains voltages potentially deadly to the other in case of accidental connection such as might happen if a transistor failed. Without substantial redesign of the vehical electronics I doubt if they are likely to help. Surge protection usually involves a device which will resist the voltage normally present but breaks down and conducts when that voltage is exceeded by much. A zener diode is such a device but the problem is still rather complex since you will need to consider the various systems separately. If this were not so the vehicles battery would absorb the surges itself.

Now for a much simpler idea. Why not fabricate some legs for the table and pull it out of the receiver while you work. An air gap is pretty good isolation. This doesn't address the possibility of electromagnetic transmission however.

Bill
Parent - - By gyadon (**) Date 10-19-2004 12:25
I had a 93 Dodge diesel. In ten years I replaced three of those throttle position sensors also. It had never been welded on or thing done to it the things just go out. I have a friend that had the same problem. Your trouble my have nothing to do with welding.
Gary
Parent - - By RonG (****) Date 10-19-2004 12:38
Well! It would seem this is an easy enough problem to handle. Buy a new truck. ;-)

By the way. They make Micarta in many sizes and shapes (tubing included). Just in case you were not aware of that.
Parent - By gyadon (**) Date 10-19-2004 14:45
I DID! 2003 DODGE
GARY
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-21-2004 01:31
OK, I admit I ain't the brightest bulb on the tree... what's 'Micarta'?

chaikwa.
Parent - By RonG (****) Date 10-21-2004 11:42
Oh drat! Why did you have to go and ask that? Now I got to look it up.

Naw, I just blurt every think I know about it.

I am not sure of the chemistry but, its a dielectric laminated material (fiber I think might even have glass in it). It is not malleable but it is machinable. Usually its brown in color.

Help!

We buy it from a outfit thats supplys Cabnet makers shops.
Parent - - By leon phelps (**) Date 10-25-2004 03:58
I have a 2002 GMC 2500 that had welding work done on it. When the work was done, the battery was not disconnected. Final result was a $2200 computer and the welding the brackets voided my waranty. I know these problems exist.
Parent - - By JTMcC (***) Date 10-25-2004 15:04
There are thousands of arcs struck every day on the back of welding rigs and mechanics trucks, all without disconnecting anything. I belong to an organization of over a thousand (literally) rig welders and have never heard of any damage to a welding rig that can be attributed to welding current.
I've personally struck an untold number of arcs on the back of a 83 Ford, 91 Dodge/Cummins and 02 Dodge/Cummins.


JTMcC.
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-29-2004 12:22
All I know is that every time I've welded on the truck, the TPS has fried. The first three times it was under warranty. After the second time, it got me to wondering. So I purposely welded on the work table without disconnecting anything and it fried a third time. Warranty again, mainly because the dealer hadn't figured out what was going on yet I guess. That third time confirmed my suspicions and I've disconnected the battery as well as the TPS wires everytime I weld on the table. Well, ALMOST everytime! I forgot one time due to a busy day and things not going exactly as planned, and the result was another fried TPS... at MY expense this time as the warranty had expired. Needless to say, I haven't forgotten again!

chaikwa.
Parent - - By OSUtigger (**) Date 10-29-2004 16:32
Chaikwa,

Just another thought, but how much steel is between a direct line to the closest wiring on the pickup and where you are welding? I mean actual steel, not some 24 ga. autobody BS. If you look at any welding bed on a rig, you have a minimum of 4 times the thickness of steel found on fenders (my uncle's amazingly is 3/8"!). Again, this would only apply if EMP was to fault, but its a whole lot harder to reach the wiring for brakes or brake lights or fuel pump (not sure about where they put those in a cummins, but if its close enough to the welding, and because it is a fuel pump, it would somehow be wired in to a TPS...see where I'm going with this?) when there is not 1/4" worth of bed in the way. I am in no way any sort of physicist, but I would guess this may be the reason welding rigs don't have a problem-the bed, due to its sheer thickness, adsorbs the pulse energy and dissipates it through the truck rather than passing right through, whereas thin sheet metal allows alot of the radiated energy to pass right through until it hits something of greater density-such as lead, or COPPER, which is, what a coincidence, a great electrical conducter.

A solution for such a case would be to make the table a sort of "booth", with vertical sides of substantial thickness to isolate the truck from any direct EM radiation. But if you are not entered in the tuff man competition and therefore cannot pick up 300 lbs worth of awkwardly shaped steel, then perhaps the only other way I can think of to avoid your electrical circuits absorbing EM radiation would be to isolate the radiation itself through earlier mentioned method of building legs onto the table and just move it away from your truck.

HTH!

G. L.
Parent - By chaikwa (*) Date 10-29-2004 22:21
Interesting theory and it makes sense. My bed is made almost entirely of 1/4" diamond plate. There are 6 large tool boxes made of 10ga, and the truck is double framed. The poor thing weighs alsmost 14,000lbs! I don't know if there's enough mass to absorb the energy we're talking about tho.

My work table is 2' X 3' and is attached to a 2" square tube that slides into the trailer receiver. It's ALREADY "300 lbs worth of awkwardly shaped steel"! I'm thinking of making some kind of 'drawer' arrangement that would have an interior of 1/2" thick plastic. The table could slide into that and it *SHOULD* be insulated.

Thanks for the reply!

chaikwa.
Parent - - By thirdeye (***) Date 10-29-2004 16:52
FYI, I ate breakfast across the street from a muffler shop today and they were welding tailpipes etc. I asked them about the battery disconect issue and got a "no".
Parent - - By leon phelps (**) Date 11-11-2004 00:46
I always thought that quality muffler shops used clamps to connect different pieces of tailpipe and mufflers. Tailpipes are usually supported by rubber flexible mounting straps also. I wouldnt take too much credit from what you were told there.
Parent - - By JTMcC (***) Date 11-11-2004 00:50
You can hang exhaust from rubber hangers, but at some point, you have to actually bolt the thing to the exhaust manifolds!

The disconnect the battery deal is pure urban myth.

JTMcC.
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 11-11-2004 02:10
JTMcC; Give me your address... I'll go weld on my truck and send you the bill for the TPS that the 'myth' causes to fry!

(calm down, just kiddin'!)

chaikwa.
Parent - - By JTMcC (***) Date 11-11-2004 04:20
I'll just send you a blank check! ; )

JTMcC.
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 11-11-2004 14:54
Heh, now if I could just get my customers to say that...

chaikwa.
Parent - By leon phelps (**) Date 11-11-2004 21:34
I want in on this one if he is paying for my computer that was fried from welding the bed.
Parent - - By billvanderhoof (****) Date 11-12-2004 08:05
If you read the data sheets for some of these complex integrated circuits there is an implication that they are best able to protect themselves from transients when they are turned on. Thus it is possible that attempts to isolate them from harm may make things worse and that the best situation could be to leave the engine idling. This should not be taken as a recommendation unless you can find someone with far more experience in this field than I to confirm it.
Bill
Parent - - By chaikwa (*) Date 11-13-2004 01:37
Wow! I'd never heard that before. Thanks for bringing it up.

Anyone?

chaikwa.
Parent - By kawgomoo (*) Date 11-20-2004 21:50
i didnt read the entire thread but el cheapo fix would be use a batt disconnect and put a 9 volt with aligator clips and very thin leads to the cables, this will prevent items from losing there memory. hopefully the leads will fry before u pass enough current to hurt the sensor.

it seems high frequency is what kills computers, the difference may be what welding process you use on your trailers.

also what about an actual ground? maybe a cable with a spike so u can earth ground your welding table instead of it sending current to the truck. which is as we all know is basically isolated from ground.
Parent - By speedy8084 (*) Date 04-21-2005 03:14
That snapon piece seems to work...I know a guy with an exhaust shop that uses one and has had not a problem one in the last 3 years...
Parent - By Horence Date 08-01-2017 06:03
To the question about how to protect vehicle from surge protector. The answer to me is to choose a good quality surge protector, that you do not need to worry about charging safety. The brand to me is bestek 6 outlet surge protector with usb charging port. The reason for me to choose it is the design of safe protection. Maybe you can catch more details on bestekmall. Wish this point is helpful to you. Best regards.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / vehicle surge protection

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