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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / manganese steel
- - By jaytea Date 01-05-2006 02:54
How do you tig weld Mn steel , Unified # J91209 . It is a thick part so I feel preheat is a must , but what kind of filler wire ?
Parent - - By RonG (****) Date 01-05-2006 17:49
Not trying to be a smart #%@ but you can weld it with just about any wire you can get your hands on.

Filler wire (and other variables) should be determined by the application which you do not allude to.


The material has no designation (ASTM, AISI or AMS) to indicate the mechanical properties, it is very high in Carbon but Austenitic.

I would use ER309L myself but you need to tell more about the application.
Parent - - By - Date 01-06-2006 23:56
Ron,
I agree with the selection of filler materials, but allow me to add to the part of manganese being austenitic. Manganese, at or near room temperature stabilizes the austenite, but at high temperatures it actually forms ferrite. Manganese is also effective in combining with sulfur to form relatively stable manganese sulfides. Manganese increases the solubility of nitrogen, which is what helps stabilize the austenite. Good information, but just wanted to add my little bit. Thanks..
Parent - - By RonG (****) Date 01-07-2006 20:05
Any and all help is appreaciated Chuck.
Parent - - By - Date 01-07-2006 21:52
Thanks Ron...How 'bout them Longhorns??? If Vince Young comes out, the Texans would be foolish not to draft him..
Parent - - By ssbn727 (*****) Date 01-08-2006 06:10
Hey Chuck!

I wonder how good those "longhorns" would've done against Penn State's "Nittany Lions" for the national championship????? Hmmmmm,
I wonder...

Respectfully,
SSBN727
Run Silent... Run Deep!!!
Parent - - By G.S.Crisi (****) Date 01-08-2006 11:22
Sorry Gentlemen, but your so called "American football" (or are you talking about baseball?) won't take me off from soccer, our national passion. That's why Brazil is the present world soccer champion !
Giovanni S. Crisi
Sao Paulo - Brazil
Parent - By RonG (****) Date 01-08-2006 12:23
HOOK'EM

They are talking about it.
Parent - By - Date 01-08-2006 14:06
C'mon Giovanni, you know the difference between football and baseball in America. Congratulations to Brazil for being soccer champs..Soccer???
Oh well....
Parent - By - Date 01-08-2006 14:03
Hey My friend,
It would have been a good game between PSU and UT, but PSU was lucky to beat Florida State (3 OT's) who had 4 losses. PSU still has to win all of it's games before thinking about playing for any National Championship.
Parent - - By Dr. D (*) Date 01-19-2006 10:58
I have Stick welded Mang steel but not T.I.G. welded it. I am no expert but I will say if you're new to Manganese do some reading and research. It can be about as tricky as cast iron. I am refering to the Hadfield variety with Mang in the 12% and up range.
From what I've read and from my experience welding manganese(heavy parts for rockcrushers) you do not want to pre-heat. You also do not want it to get too hot. If it goes above 500 deg. you can get carbide precipitation in the H.A.Z. Carbide is hard, it doesn't stretch. When this happens it will crack, often times as soon as the weld cools to room temp. you will hear the frightfull "TINK" and see a hairline crack along side the weld.
Keep it cool. Run a short bead, let it cool so you can touch it with your hand, then repeat. I have even immediately quenched the weld with water then proceded.
If you keep the parent metal at around 200 deg. between short passes you should be fine.
As far as filler metal, I don't know where to get tig filler rods but you could use Postalloy 207 or Stoody Nicromang stick rods and knock the flux off.
I would not recommend any type of filler other than what is used for Austenitic steels. (nothing with iron and carbon in it like 7018) Also Manganese work hardens on the surface but stays malleable in the middle. You will want to grind this hardened surface layer down a little before welding.
FYI, I have tried 309L & castiron rods just to satisfy my curiosity and they failed.
Good Luck
Here is some extra info from Postalloy:

Which is the correct product?
If the base metal is manganese, choose 2850-FCO or 205 electrode, as they are designed for welding any type of manganese steel. If the base metal is low alloy or carbon steel or stainless steel, choose 285-SPL or 2865-FCO , as these manganese alloys may be used on a wide variety of base metals.
Precautions when welding manganese: The heat from welding can cause manganese to become embrittled, and because the effects from welding are cumulative, this can lead to further problems, especially if the part is to be rebuilt over and over again. Never let the part get over 500ºF (260ºC) for an extended period of time. Postalloy 2865-FCO wire or 207 electrode are an excellent heat insulator and ideal for use as a cushion or buffer layer on manganese steel parts that must be rebuilt on a repetitive basis. It will act as a heat insulator to the manganese base metal, helping it stay below 500ºF (260ºC) during the welding operation.

Dr. D
Parent - - By PhilThomas (**) Date 01-19-2006 12:30
In regards to the statement:

"As far as filler metal, I don't know where to get tig filler rods but you could use Postalloy 207 or Stoody Nicromang stick rods and knock the flux off."

Please don't. In the case of the Nicromang, I can tell you that without the flux, you might as well be trying to TIG weld with 70S-2 filler.......the alloys are in the extruded coating.

My recommendation would be to use small diameter SMAW with the appropriate manganese electrode. I would recommend Stoody, but I clearly have a bias :)

Parent - - By Dr. D (*) Date 01-25-2006 08:29
Hmmm,
Thanks for that info Phil. I wasn't aware that the alloying properties are in the flux coating. I wouldn't have thought that since the flux floats on top of the molten puddle. Do the alloys somehow get pulled into the mix when both the flux and metal are molten.
I wouldn't have figured the small amounts of alloying elements in the flux would have sufficient time to mix and alloy properly and evenly with the parent metal of the rod, given the amount of time the puddle is molten. Is this the case with just the Stoody or also with other austenitic type rods
Also wouldn't a bare(flux knocked off) Nicromang rod have more the properties of a nickel rod as opposed to 70S-2.
Not trying to arugue with you, just trying to learn from what you have to say.
Thanks
Parent - By Northweldor (***) Date 01-25-2006 12:28
Many electrodes, not just the ones mentioned, have both alloying elements and extra metal in the flux and will not have the advertised metallic properties, if used as tig filler with the flux removed.
Parent - By PhilThomas (**) Date 01-25-2006 12:45
As North says....many rods are made this way. I can't tell you offhand which other brands are like this, but most Stoody hardfacing rods have at least some portion of the alloying ingredients in the coating. In the case of Stoody 31, there are also metallic components in the core wire (it is a tubular core SMAW rod).

As to how they get into the final deposit - remember that the coating can have several functions (arc stabilizers, slag forming ingredients for protection, alloying elements, and molten puddle scavengers). The alloying elements are metallic and are transferred across the arc into the puddle. There is some loss of the alloying elements across the arc depending on the element but that is factored into the coating formula. The metallic alloys are much heavier than the slag formers so they remain in the deposit while the slag formers float out. The "force" of the arc ensures that everything is well mixed.

Kind of a simplified "SMAW Electrode Design 101" but hopefully it clears things up a bit...

Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / manganese steel

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