Hello Jeffrey Compton, are you referring to the actual bottom of the bucket located behind the front cutting edge and the wear sections that are typically welded to the outside of this piece? Many of these buckets will have a multi-part composition that makes up the components of the bucket. What I refer to as the lip, is the heavy portion of the bucket that makes up the cutting edge and typically does the cutting while digging and also has tooth adapters welded onto it in many instances. On each end of this cutting lip there are heavy plates referred to as corner bits, they sometimes also have holes for bolting on replaceable cutting bits that are vertically positioned relative to the horizontal placement of the cutting lip. The end plates of the bucket will often have a 3 piece construction, the corner bits are positioned at the lower forward corner of the side plate and are the thicker portion of the side plate in many instances. There is another heavier piece that is tied to the top part of the corner bit and generally extends vertically to the top of the side plate to give reinforcement to the front edge of the bucket side plate. Behind these two pieces is the bulk of the side plate and it is generally made up of the thinnest part of the total package. All three of these pieces make up the side plate for most types of digging buckets. Directly behind the cutting lip is another fairly thin part of the bucket which is sometimes called the bottom or lower wrapper, it is welded to the back of the cutting edge/lip and generally extends straight back from this edge for a ways and then begins to bend at a radius up towards the upper portion of the bucket. Where the lower wrapper ends there is often a heavier piece of plate that is referred to as the top or upper wrapper, this piece generally is fitted in a lap joint orientation to the lower piece and starts being formed at roughly the same radius as the lower part and then straightens out again as it makes it's way to the top of the bucket. Many times wear plates or runners will also be applied starting at the back of the bottom cutting lip and following the straight portion of the bottom wrapper and then being bent to match the outside radius of the lower wrapper and extending upwards on the outside of the back of the bucket until they meet or end just shy of where the upper wrapper laps over the lower wrapper. These "fingers" don't completely cover the backside of the lower wrapper but instead act as wear surfaces for the bottom of the bucket and can be removed and changed as they wear(with an arc-air and welder), thus protecting the bottom of the bucket somewhat. The bucket mounting brackets, which generally also have the pin bosses welded to them, provide the mounts to attach the bucket to the machine. They are generally attached to the upper wrapper and welded prior to installing another wrapper that ties into the upper edge of the upper wrapper and then is formed to box in the pin boss mounts and stiffen the whole mounting assembly. If you survived reading my essay here try to better describe which portion of the bucket that you are working with and if possible try to include a sketch or some pictures. I am sure there are plenty of folks who can help out if you can give a little bit better description. Best regards, aevald
Yikes, vantage500man, that does bring back some memories of past challenges. Nice pictures by the way. Best regards, Allan
Hay Bear, one quick question on the bucket repairs: Are you using some type of wear resistant plate like Hardox/ Weldox, or are you just rebuilding with A-36 carbon steel?
We have done some of this work using both materials, and I'll say that wear plate sure takes some tonnage to form!
Yes both where with AR plate 1/2 and 1/2 AR where bars over and the company i did them for said they are holding up great and loved the work thank guys
I notice that you've put your wear bars across the bottom of the bucket parallel to the cutting edge. As far as I'm concerned this is the only way to go. I usually stick them on with 1 to 1 1/2 inches out past the sides for wear purposes. Having the bars across the bucket like that greatly adds to the strength of the bucket floor. They also last longer and protect the floor better than the formed strips. Way easier to put on, too. Some of the manufacturers around here put a formed strip up each side and weld bars crossways in between the strips. They save money by using mild steel for the floor. When working in blasted rock or boulders even a careful operator will wind up deforming the floor up towards the inside of the bucket with that arrangement. If I can talk my customers into it I will put new wear bars right over the top of everything. 1 inch by 4 inch hardox 400.
Not that I'm critisizeing your work But I notice that some of your wear strips run paralell to your cutting edge ( which is the method of choice for me ) and on the other bucket they do not which for all intensive purpous means the bucket floor wears out before the wear strip. Is this how your customer wanted it?
When you put your wear bars across the bucke your asking to snag every pipe, bolt and trench box you get close to. I imagine if the bucket were used for trenching or loading trux it would not come up. I cant say I have ever seen a bottom wear out before the wear strip. Sort of like an out of round tire, the high spot creates wear past itself.
They the customer wanted it back the way it came from the factory as close as possible.
i am 19 and work in a sheetmetal shop/ fab shop. i have had 5 years welding and metal work expierence. my best advice would be to measure the area that needs to be replaced. i am not fimiliar with loader buckets, but what i have done for a tractor was the cut a plate to fit on the bottom half, with 1/8" gap on each side to allow for good penetration. the top, here's a cool trick, clamp it in place, and weld it, or if clamps arent feesible, drill holes, bolt it in place, weld it, then removes the bolts and fill the holes with weld. im not sure the shape of the bucket but if i has a curve or any sort of radius, and you dont have a slip roller, you can use a press or shop brake and do what is called a brake roll. this is done by evenly marking break points along the material and putting a slight bend or break in the surface until it takes the shape you need. the more breaks, the smoother the bend will look. there are a few tips to remember. metal "grows" or lengthens when broke, and always aloow for material thickness and kerf with any cut or bend. a sure a nd tried and true method to nice, even, flush cuts....measure and measure again.