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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Tig with Classic II
- - By stkwldr (**) Date 08-02-2008 15:07
Hello all, I'm new to the forum and I have a question.  Can I run a Tig set up on my Classic II without having to purchase an inverter?  If so, how it done? I have some ideas on how it could be done, but I would like some input from someone who might know for sure.  I'm just wanting to do stainless.
Parent - - By okiewelder2 (**) Date 08-02-2008 15:34
swap your leads and start welding
Parent - - By chris2698 (****) Date 08-02-2008 16:11
just like okiewelder2 said, swap the leads put the Tig torch on the negative side and the ground that attaches to your work piece on the positive side and go at it. I was really amazed of how well my tig setup welded off my sa 200 I'd have to say it was one of the smoothest i've welded with only downside to it it's scratch start which isn't hard at all to get going very very easy to scratch it off the filler rod so easy it's almost like haveing a pedal. I've welded with some machines that were scratch start and they were a b*tch to get going. I don't know if you have bought a tig rig yet or what but I bought mine from weldingsupply.com I think it was like 100 dollars delieverd to my house and that was the 200 amp dry setup. My local shop wanted like 160 for it.

Chris
Parent - - By stkwldr (**) Date 08-02-2008 16:21
Thanks guys.  I have not bought the Tig rig yet but this is what I was looking for so I could purchase one.
Parent - - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-03-2008 02:59
I have several new 250 amp air cooled torches for reasonable. I can turn you on to a guy that has them all day 250 amp 25 ft. air cooled for under $80. I also have on & off switches & can advise you on how to build a contactor box for cheap. JUST DON'T RUN AN HF BOX 115 AC INPUT POWER OFF A DC ONLY MACHINE! YOU'LL FRY IT INSTANTLY!! Thanks. Steve 517 202 0314
Parent - - By stkwldr (**) Date 08-04-2008 21:27
sbcmweb,

What is the on and off switch you are referring to,  is it not as described? switch leads and hook up your argon.
Parent - - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-04-2008 22:25 Edited 08-04-2008 22:33
Hi. What I'm talking about is using a switch to turn your weld current ON & OFF. If you are going to TIG weld with your engine drive, yes you switch your leads for straight polarity, torch negative. The machine you have has no contactor so the torch will always be hot, like when you are stick welding. If you are going to buy a high frequency starter box, you will still have a hot torch all the time if it doesn't have a built in contactor. It usually is an option on most HF boxes. At least the ones Miller makes. I don't know by the definition "Tig Rig" if you mean just a torch & leads, or an HF starter box  in addition to the torch.

If desired, you can take a 115 VAC contactor (like one inside a welder), put it in a box, run AC power to it & hook your POS lead up on either end. The 115 VAC running to it activates it, closing the contactor & completing the circuit. You can get AC power from a wall socket.  It serves as a switch to turn the current ON & OFF & you can use a remote hand switch on your torch to activate it. You will have no amperage control for it, but is an inexpensive alternative to a machine with remote contactor & control. If you already have a ditch box, you can keep it handy while you're welding & make any needed adjustments right there.

I hope that made sense. It's quite easy to do & a very nice addition that is easily connected & removed. Here's a picture of the contactor I have hooked up to my load bank. It is a factory Lincoln 600 amp one, but the same principal can be applied building your own. Good luck! Steve
Parent - - By ablake32 (*) Date 08-06-2008 12:57
Steve. Is there a dry tig torch out there with a lead longer than 25'? My L.W.S. told me no but experience has told me not to believe everything they say. The reason I ask is because i have some stainless work to do out here in a winery and I cant get my truck closer than about 35'.   I was told i'd have to buy a little dc tig machine $$$$ and run it off my engine drive.  Thanks  -Adam
Parent - - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-06-2008 13:15
Hi Adam. Yes, the local weld supply usually knows the catalogs, but little else. Had plenty of experience with that. Yeah, they want to sell you another frigging machine alright. I have never seen one longer than 25' BUT, you can cheat it easy enough. I assume you are scratch starting & not using an HF box. Get your 25' torch & attach a brass connector block to the end. This brass lug is about $10 at the weld supply & would normally attach to the stud terminal on your welding machine. It has one end for gas, the other, the torch hose screws into. Get a piece of welding lead that has a crimp lug on both ends. Use a bolt & nut to attach one end to the block on the end of the torch & the other end, run to the NEG. terminal on your machine. Just insulate the exposed block with a leather glove taped around it. Then, attach your gas to the connector block & you're good to go!

If you don't have a lot of gas hose, put your argon tank on a hand dolly & wrap a bungee cord around it, take it to close to where you're working. Just don't get crazy with the length of the cable extension (like 100's of feet!) to avoid any serious voltage drop. But as long as it's not too far, you'll be fine.  Hope this helps! Good luck. Steve.
Parent - - By chris2698 (****) Date 08-06-2008 15:06
I was about to say the same thing Steve yeah these dam welding shops will do anything to sell ya another machine, sometimes when I go in there I just want to say ok bend me over LOL I gotta go to one today to. I guess you could do the same for your remote run it out just as far I guess you could go as far as you want??.. now what is a safe distance you can use like 100ft and no further you think to your block??

Chris
Parent - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-06-2008 15:39
If the lead is heavy enough, probably 200 easy. 1/0 will handle that. I just wouldn't go getting super far away & running hard all day. For what this application is, it probably would be fine though. S.W.
Parent - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-06-2008 16:00
Oh, the remote...If you have a 3 conductor cord, you can extend a remote as far as you want. You'll need a 5 conductor cord if the contactor is integrated into the remote. Like on a foot control. For your standard ditch box, 3 wires is all you need.  If you can pick up a heavy duty contactor that has a 115 DC coil on it, you could plug it right into your SA & make yourself a budget contactor & turn your current on & off. The problem is finding a heavy amperage contactor with that voltage coil. If you have AC power close, you can get one with a 115 AC coil & do it easy. Just a thought. S.W.
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 08-07-2008 03:07
Chris, the remote on an SA 200 actually carries the field current, so You will need an appropriatly sized cord for the length. There would be no length limit [in theory] as long as the remote cable is heavy enough to keep voltage drop at an acceptable level.
Parent - - By Ringo (***) Date 08-06-2008 17:41
Hook me up with one of those 25ft.power cables Steve,I have one that's 12 ft. and its in bad shape.
Parent - - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-06-2008 19:13
I think I got them sold, but I can make up another one. I'll let you know. Thanks. Steve
Parent - - By ablake32 (*) Date 08-06-2008 21:40
Hey thanks Steve. I knew there would be a way around it. I follow what your saying and I've got plenty of hose and also dug up some 3/0 cable (the next stainless project out there involves a 300' loop) so i think I should be good to go. Thanks you guys for passing your knowledge along. Have I mentioned that I LOVE this forum?  -Adam
Parent - By sbcmweb (****) Date 08-06-2008 22:02
Glad to help! :-) Welcome!! Don't be shy, keep coming back. Lots of super folks here!! Steve.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Tig with Classic II

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