tests

Date 11-15-2008 16:44

Either buy a 12" saddle or a pipe fitters book and go from there. The book is about 25 dollars and it breaks it down for you. The saddle makes it easy but they are kind of expensive and some places might not let you use them to test.

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 11-15-2008 17:01

i am a saddlebut i cant get the fit up right the get the root in

By cole

Date 11-15-2008 17:28

What size gap are you using? I've found to much gap is better than not enough but thats just me. The fit up is the most important part the welding is the easy part.

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 11-15-2008 17:35

i try to use a 5/32 rod.. but i end up with big gaps on the sides and not enough on the throught... and a cant seem to get them to fit up conner to corner. i do good on the butt weld and i have been looked out on my fit up everytime one the branch and its always on my fit up..i have done this test 2 time amd i just gave up

By snuffman (***)

Date 11-15-2008 18:05

It sounds like your template is a little off. The one I have I had to trim and play with it a little to get it right.

By RioCampo (***)

Date 11-15-2008 18:46

maybe they angle of your torch when you make the cut.?

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 11-15-2008 19:30

the templet is new and i got it for the 2 test the first test a didnt know how to lay one out i just cut and trimed and it took forever... when i cut them i just cut it normally. cut and turned the pipe. like a stright cut like if you was sitting on top of the pipe

By Superflux (****)

Date 11-16-2008 01:55

Cole,
Sounds like you can probably weld good enough to pass the test, it's just thatyour template is not designed to your method of cutting pipe (many factory templates are made so that there is a lot of changing angles of the torch head when cutting). . This creates problems for anyone except a highly experienced artisan with the "gas axe". Snuffman is right, you need to trim your template. It sounds like your fit-up is consistently off in the same locations. This is a good thing! "when i cut them i just cut it normally. cut and turned the pipe. like a stright cut like if you was sitting on top of the pipe" Modify your template to fit the pipe, by first getting a perfect fit (branch piece with square edges, NOT beveled for welding yet) with the brach sitting on the header piece gap free. Trim template, practice a few cuts so your confident and quick (there are time limits) then start beveling.
Also use a large straight stone (not the tapered Donkey D***) to clean up the torch cut, then your ready to bevel and prep for welding!
Hope this helps.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 11-17-2008 00:14

[deleted]

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 11-17-2008 14:14

i am understanding now

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 11-17-2008 14:16

thank yall for all the info ....It help to chat with people that have been there before

By Danny Lilly (*)

Date 11-18-2008 03:50

What is the desirable gap on the branch. Everytime I try one it slams shut at the throat and get IP. Also where would you know to trim the templet at?

By Superflux (****)

Date 11-18-2008 06:13

Try using larger/longer tacks. And /or don't grind them till you're ready to tie into that tack. I guess what I'm trying to say is...make the fit with four substantial tacks (1 full inch in length), choose the tightest gap and feather you stop and start for that quarter only, weld that 1/4. Then prep your tacks OPPOSITE (180) from that quarter. What happens so often, is by thinning out all the tacks, the shrinkage forces and heat build up collapses them and, well, you know the rest of the story.

By Danny Lilly (*)

Date 11-19-2008 02:29

makes since, thanks for the reply

By PipeIt

Date 11-19-2008 20:15

http://www.ezpipe.com/

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 11-20-2008 00:36

[deleted]

By Danny Lilly (*)

Date 11-20-2008 02:30

Thanks bigkahunna. How do you get the curve you need with out a templete? I understand about laying it out. It would be very critical with a wrap a round to get the right transition to each location. You would almost need three hands, two to hold the wrap in the right loctions and one to put the mark with. Wow! Im not argueing the meathod, just seems like too many steps on a timed test. I will keep the trick with putting the spacers in the throat in mind for sure. Thanks again.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 11-20-2008 04:10

[deleted]

By Superflux (****)

Date 11-20-2008 10:52 Edited 11-20-2008 11:00

Shop around and buy a thick wrap-a-round. For lay out work I prefer to make my own out of 1/8" fibre gasket material (garlok?), and 4" X 24" is a good size. Of course, making a parallel/straight wrap-a-round is another art in and of itself. If nothing else, just cut of a large bore wrap to 2' in length, its way easier to handle at that size. Don't worry about the cost, you'll make that up in the 1st hour after the test is passed.