Well, I haven't read my particular technique.
Close though....
Use a Number 9 wire spacer on 12" and below, long 1 1/2" tacks at 12, 6, 3, and 9 positions on pipe above 6", 1 " tacks on pipe below 6 inches.
After the initial tack, wedge your gap for the remainder of your tacks.
85 -95 amps with 1/8" filler rod. On tack ups, use 2" masking tape across the root opening 2" up the outside the tack area to rock your wire on for the fulcrum.
This steadys the wire and provides a point to rock the wire on to "SEW" the bead in. Feather to 1/16" land on the pipe @ 37 1/2 degree bevel. Feather edge lands on 30 degree bevels.
Grab the end of the wire and lay the wire on the tape to rock it on the inside of the pipe sewing (bridging) the tack bead in on the tacks.
Rock your tungsten up the wall of the pipe to cool the puddle off as necessary should it get too hot and that allows you to get another grip of the wire. The wire stays in contact with the puddle at all times until you've welded all that's needed and roll the puddle outward drying up the wall of the pipe and out leaving no fish eye in the puddle. Feather the tacks on the tie in's
of the bottoms of 3 and 9 positions, both sides of the 12 position. Use the tacks to rock your wire on now and look through the gap to rock the cup and weld 'er up. Laying the cup on the pipe to rock it maintains correct arc gap and the gas force helps push and cool the molten puddle as you progress upwards. Gas flow @ 30 to 35 CFM. You'll have a thick bead
when your done and you've seen the whole bead sewed in for surety. Get in the habit of putting in beads this way and bad fits with large gaps will be no problem. You'll soon get to where you can sew a bead in a gap that's as large as your thumb with ease. Good luck!
Good "Rock the cup" technique takes practice, lots of practice. Get some!