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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Copper-Nickle
- - By welder5354 (**) Date 07-01-2009 04:56
Would like some info on welding of copper nickle (90/10).
I have to do a couple of welds on 8" copper nickle.  The pipe is 1/4 inch thick.
What tecnique would you welders use.  Would it be a dipping motion or just leave the rod in the puddle
and fuse it in there.  What gap is best to use, if there is one. Would like some info before i screw it up.
Thanks for any help.
Parent - - By Steve.E (**) Date 07-01-2009 10:42 Edited 07-01-2009 10:44
Assuming GTAW .., Large shroud with gas lens.
                          Back purge Argon
                          Torch gas Argon (good) Argon Helium (better)
                          If you dip rod keep the end in the argon shroud.
                          Use a gap and largish bevel angle, small root face.    Good luck. :)
                                                                                        PS.. do you have a WPS.
Parent - - By 803056 (*****) Date 07-01-2009 12:48
I don't disagree with anything mentioned by Steve, other than to add the following:

1) abrade both the ID and OD surfaces. Wire brushing is not aggressive enough. A carbide rotary file or abrasive wheel are best.
2) each weld bead should be abraded to bright metal before depositing the next weld pass. Again, wire brushing is not aggressive enough.
3) use stringer beads (no weaving at all) with high amperage, low voltage (tight arc). The weld puddle is "gooey", i.e. doesn't lend itself to weave beads.
4) pay particular attention to the toes of each weld pass. Blend in any cold edges that appear to have a rounded or deep crevices. The weld puddle does not penetrate, so it is important to prepare each layer for successive welding, no deep crevices!
5) maintain the purge until the root surface is below 300 degrees F. Check a previous thread on the subject of purging.
6) I prefer a tight root opening, i.e., zero, and a root face no more than 1/32 inch thick. This minimizes leakage of the purge and lessens the ability of air to enter the system.
7) weld the joints starting closest to the purge source and work toward the farthest end of the spool.
8) use vertical uphill progression if welding in position.
9) keep it clean. Wear clean gloves, clean the filler metal, clean the pipe ID, OD, and weld groove with acetone followed by isopropyl alcohol, don't touch anything with your bare hands after cleaning. This also means cleaning the wire brushes, rotary files, etc.

Best regards -Al 
Parent - - By welder5354 (**) Date 07-01-2009 15:36
Hi there, thanks for the advice.  One question, what if the pipe joint was only 1/8 thick?
Would it be posibly to just butt the joints and fuse it together or would there be lack of fusion!
Yes the weld would be GTAW.
dan
Parent - - By pipewelder_1999 (****) Date 07-01-2009 18:44
90-10 CuNi will take a considerable amount of amperage to weld as compared to other materials including other copper nickel alloys. I would suggest Vee Grooves but you could test out other joints prior to qualifiying a procedure.

One thing to add to all of the fine comments above, in repair situations in which the material has been exposed to seawater, cleanining the inside of the pipe is crucial. Pickling may sometimes be needed. Even areas not near the joint can cause problems for shielding the root. Only if root oxidation is a concern. The puddle gets kinda sluggish too without a good purge. Oh yea, CLEAN EVERYTHING !

The majority of my experience (Which Was Many Years Ago) was on 70/30 Cuni however did have the opportunity to weld some 90/10 later and it required much more heat input.

I wouldn't weld a piece of 1/8" SS pipe by hand without a groove if I needed consistent results however my skills are limited to only what I have experienced.
Parent - By pipehog (**) Date 07-02-2009 19:50
you want a gap bigger than your wire and feed the root in there.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Copper-Nickle

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