What tourch? TIG

Date 12-19-2009 06:06

I have seen 300 amp [DC rating] air cooled torches advertised, I would like to hear from anybody using one. The usual ones are only rated to 200 amps.

By chris2698 (****)

Date 12-19-2009 07:03

I've got a weldcraft 200 amp air cooled torch and I like it alot. The one thing that drove me crazy was the handle that came with it, it felt to bulky so i ordered the handle that had the smooth grip to it well no it is smaller in diameter but still had some grip to it which is much better now. There is a 300 amp air cooled torch like Dave says and I'm sure with a little research you could get some opinions about it.

Local welding store wanted I think 180 or so for the 200 amp so I ordered it online for like 110 I think it was, which i thought wasn't a bad price. http://www.weldcraft.com/products/crafter-series/

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-19-2009 08:12

Water cooled is if you're only going to be in the shop. Dry rig (air cooled) 200 amp WeldCraft WP-26 has the Flex head and will let you bend it to the angle of your liking. Set it up with 1/8" collet and tungsten. I wouldn't worry about stainless for quite a while. That is just expensive practice, unless you have a "deal" on filler rod and pipe. Get the largest Argon bottle you can for economy sake and weld away! Stainless exhaust pipe is cheap and efficient practice for learning to root on. I figure welding time is more beneficial than prep time, so why bother grinding bevels on sch 40 pipe. Just cut up a bunch of 4" long pups and start welding them together.

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-19-2009 08:19

Don't forget to train both hands cuz most folks I know have to put in at least 1/4 if not 1/2 of a 6G with the "OFF" (other) hand.

By tim105

Date 12-19-2009 15:57

I use a weldcraft FV 26. It is air cooled with a flexible neck and has a valve on the torch which works great for me. It is a 200 amp and you can weld 5/32 wire with out a problem.
Try practicing with a jumbo gas lens and a number 8 or 10 cup, it works better for stainless than a regular gas lens.

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 12-19-2009 18:58

Definitely stick with Weldcraft setups. The WP 26 is a good torch and the flex head is very handy. I think the FV is the same torch except with a gas valve as stated above. I have never seen anyone run a water cooled setup portable...too many lines to much hassle. Anyway weldcraft has the best selection of TIG setups and parts can be had ANYWHERE.

By chris2698 (****)

Date 12-19-2009 19:13

like Tommy says go with weldcraft for the setup but I'd buy the tig parts like collets and cups and gas lenses from some knock off brand. Weldcraft wants way the hell to much for there name brand tig parts. I have the stiff head tig torch with valve. I went with this for pipe but do kidna wish I had teh flex head, only reason i didn't get the flex head because i remember it not lasting very long when I had used it on anoth job

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-19-2009 19:23

Some times those cheap parts aren't a "deal". When they strip out the threads in your brand new torch body because they overheat and are loose, you've not saved much. That being said, I do buy inexpensive collets since there are no threads involved.
Two things to consider about buying quality (expensive) tools and parts...you tend to abuse it less. The other personal philosophy is, "If I buy the best, I'll have fewer regrets later"

By chris2698 (****)

Date 12-19-2009 19:31

this is true I just haven't had any problems yet so I keep buying at least cheap cups and collets. Welding store I go to really doesn't carry the weldcraft parts

By JeremyW83 (***)

Date 12-20-2009 00:31

The only thing I have had problems with off brand stuff on my weldcrafts have been the rooster tails or button caps. Buy the weldcraft ones haven't had a problem yet. I did strip out a brand new wp17FV once.

By scrappywelds (***)

Date 12-20-2009 01:54

weldcreaft 17fv 150 amp air cooled and a 9fv air cool for tight work. Used them for years they can get a little hot from time to time, but for stainless I dont like all the extra weight of a 200 amp rig I personally never needed more than 150 amps much. I have both set-ups, and ofcourse I didn't pay for any of them. I just get another one from the tool room if it burns up.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-20-2009 02:25 Edited 12-20-2009 02:51

Thanks everyone!! This forum is so awsome. here is another one for ya. There is a local fella that wants me to make a stailess fuel thank for the back of his truck. I have never done any stainless before but don't see where it would be that diffacult it would be out of like 1/8 sheet and thaught it would be good to practice on. what do you all think? also what length cable and hose would be best suited for feild use? would a one peace or 2 peace cable be a better way to go.

By hillbilly (**)

Date 12-20-2009 04:42

I've got a Weldcraft 9 and 17 that I use, actually I just rembered Cumminsguy has my 17 on loan. I get by with a 9 in my shop. If it gets too warm, I can usually stop and cool it. I don't do alot of aluminum, so i haven't needed much more than the 17 asfar as amp capacity goes. I do keep my eye out for a 2nd hand/used 26 to add to the truck, but usually anything that must be tigged, that I do, can be brought back to the shop. Stay with Weldcraft, as I've had good luck with them. Not so much with the Radnor line.

By guzlndzl (*)

Date 12-20-2009 06:04

yeah 150 amp is great ,just picked one up couple weeks ago easy to handle ,not bulky and a small lead /hose . with no exp to tig my welds are coming out great.
oh and by the way using it on my 62, 200

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 12-27-2009 23:36

Hey Brian! Ain't seen you on here in awhile! Hey, I got your 17 in an old plastic jar. I went out and bought a weldcraft flex head 17v with small and large gas lense, cups and such. If I get back up that way I'll have to look you up. Been up near Dickson several times and might be back up there in the near future.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 12-21-2009 03:33

If that tank has any size to it, don't forget to put some baffles in it. The free surface effect of a part filled tank can cause handling issues with the truck and structural issues with the tank itself.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-22-2009 01:43

yeah I always put baffles in them but thanks for the heads up anyways.

By mtlmster (**)

Date 12-23-2009 14:57

I can hook you up with Solar Flux, Type B for SS. If you purchase it from a supplier it's going to cost $39.95 or more, plus shipping for 1 lb. A one pound can last for like ever. I just happen to have a little on hand and can send you about a quarter pound which will do the whole tank and several more. The manufacturer recommends you mix it with methanol. You can go to your local automotive supplier, or wal-mart and pick up a bottle of HEET, or DRYGAS. If you really want to get by cheap, you can use denatured alcohol. That works fine on most SS.

I can probably let a 1/4lb go for about $20.00, if your interested. Free shipping of course. The MSDS will be included. Also the instructions on how to use it.

If you want the Type I (Super Alloys over 25% nickel, the retail cost for 1lb is approximatly $49.95 plus shipping. I can also break that down for who ever might want to purchase some.

I have had some jobs that I just couldn't have done them without the Solar Flux.

Just a thought.
Steve

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-23-2009 16:58

I wish I would have seen this post earier but I have already ordered a 1lb. can but it will be nice to have around anyways i guess. Thanks anyways.

By mtlmster (**)

Date 12-23-2009 19:44

That's cool. You will love the stuff.

And if your concerned with cleanup, which being a fuel tank you probably should cleanup pretty good, you can use Wonder Gel; SS pickling gel, by Bradford Derustit. Makes cleanup nice and easy. Clean the stubborn slag and scale and makes the stainless look new.

WWW.derustit.com

Good Luck on your project.

Steve

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-24-2009 00:24

That stuff looks pretty cool but wont a flapper wheel or whire brush take care of all that?

By mtlmster (**)

Date 12-24-2009 00:37

Sure. Cleanup is cleanup. If you have relatively easy access to your welds a ss wire brush on your drill, flapper on your grinder, cup brush, it's all good. You might have a slight issue with the Solar Flux residue being a little sticky or gummy. Pickling is the least labor intensive though.

Wife calling me in for supper, gotta go!

Sincerely,
Steve

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-24-2009 01:07

sounds like tohe way to go then thanks

By medicinehawk01 (**)

Date 12-20-2009 18:00

WP-17 by weldcraft is a big enough torch, 200 amp rating. Carbon pipe welds similar to stainless pipe and I am sure you have pieces kicking around to make weld coupons out of. Any air cooled torch gets hot with constant use (especially welding cs straight out), but for stainless steel pipe welding, you should be alright.

By scrappywelds (***)

Date 12-21-2009 02:10

25 ft rubber one peice power lead / hose. 100 ft gas hose is what I have. I would have the same lenght of gas hose as I do lead on the welder. Don't forget about the purge hose for backing gas. Victor makes a real good double flowmeter.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-21-2009 04:22 Edited 12-22-2009 01:33

Thanks men, what do ya think about the fuel tank for practice and what size tungsten and rod would you use on something like that. also what peramators would I start with on my 300D?

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-22-2009 03:16 Edited 12-22-2009 03:25

Don't forget to cut the "mouse holes" in the baffles!

"what size tungsten and rod would you use on something like that"
Don't over think this. If you can get the arc going, and can TIG weld, just go with what feels good.
Really, if you are this insecure with your abilities, then by all means use stick MIG or whatever you are comfortable with.
I wouldn't use a fuel tank for practice, but that's just me...I'd practice my GTAW on Pitman Arms, drive shafts or something else "non-critical".

By supermoto (***)

Date 12-22-2009 16:17

I hope your joking, because pitman arms and driveshafts are pretty "critical". I wouldn't want either of those to break.

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-22-2009 16:23

My "Evil Twin" sometimes grabs the keyboard away from me.
I've always felt that Practice should be performed on scrap.
I also wouldn't want fuel leaking down on the Exhaust System

By Johnyutah (**)

Date 12-22-2009 14:52

I think you will do fine on the tank just take a few strips of your scrap sheet tack it up with an open seam and see where you need to be. You probably will not use much filler on this project so if your in good with the supply house maybe they will hook you up on some small filler from an open tube. As for your machine you just need to see what you like as with anything you can weld it many different ways but it's what you like that matters. You will find that stainless tanks take a lot of time if you get after it for to long you will be able to surf on it.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-23-2009 00:32

thanks man, at least someone believes in me, I am not worried about it at all. I just wanted to hear the responses. The old boy I am making it for knows I am learning on it and thats why I am doing it soo cheap for him. He knows I will do I good job, and he will get a great tank cheap.

By supermoto (***)

Date 12-22-2009 16:19

Yes don't overthink it, but be careful of creating too much heat other wise it might buckle/warp on you. A seal Weld should be plenty as long as there is good fusion and you don't burn through and get a bunch of crap in the inside. The baffles should help prevent the warpage.

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-22-2009 16:31

Be sure to diesel or vacuumn box soap test all welds. If stainless "sugars", it will more than likely leak when on thin material. I sometimes paint a little SolarFlux on the opposite side of stainless sheet to keep from sugaring.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-22-2009 21:04

thanks for the advise. I was going to figure out a way to purge it. If that stuff works it sure sounds a lot easier. That sruff work pretty good? I never heard of it before.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-22-2009 21:54

None of my local stores handle solar-flux, Is there a simmiler product available that works as well or will I have to order online?

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-22-2009 23:30

If you are in Wyoming, Gasses Plus has or can get it.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-23-2009 00:22

Oh thanks, I just looked at the solarflex web site and it showed there were no distributers in wyoming but i will call and ask them.

By Blaster (***)

Date 12-23-2009 02:59

I like Solar Flux, but if you use it on the inside of a fuel tank, what happens to the residue?

That stuff is tenacious after welding.... it is very dificult to remove even if you do have access to it. I wonder what might come of it sluffing off into the fuel over time?

By Superflux (****)

Date 12-23-2009 03:31

I know I bought some from them (gasses plus in Sheridan) a few years back.
Oh yes, I should have clarified that use of the Solar Flux. Definately use it on the OUTSIDE like where the baffles woud be welded to keep from sugar blistering the outside of the tank.

Keep the stainless cool...damp rags, skip pattern, take your time.

By CK Welding (**)

Date 12-23-2009 03:41

good information men thanks a bunch. I think I will use the solar flux on all of it except the top that way I can buff the flux off everything and then lay the top panel on tape the seams and purge with gass to finish it.

By mtlmster (**)

Date 12-23-2009 15:15

I'm trying to figure out how this forum works. If you'll go up a ways you'll see where I replied about the solar flux. I'm sooo confused!

By ssbn727 (*****)

Date 12-23-2009 22:14

"WELDCOME TO THE WORLD'S GREATEST WELDING FORUM mtlmstr!!! :) :) :) "

It will all come to you step by step, and if there's anything specific you need to find out about regarding how to use all of the options and such, all you need to do is to ask and hopefully you will no get too many replies offering help and suggestion which could also have hyou spinning around like a top for too long!!! :) :) :) JUST KIDDING! :)

Also, "jwright650" (One heck of a NICE MAN! ;) ) is one of the most active moderators here who if you contact, will be more than happy to help you navigate your way around here as well! ;)
Gotta run! I'm on the road headed towards Westchester County which is just North of NYC for Christmas, so I'd like to make it there before Christmas Eve to spend even more time with the family... MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO BOTH YOU AND YOUR FAMILY!!! :) :) :)

Respectfully,
Henry

By mtlmster (**)

Date 12-24-2009 00:28

Thanks Henry. I'm sure as the more I lurk, read and get involved with postings I'll catch on. BTW I've been reading several posts in several different topics and there has been some very interesting discussions.

Mostly I pay attention to the user name of the posts so I can determine who is active and who is knowlegdable. I had noticed that you are one of those who are very active in this forum.

Seems as though you know what your talking about and not afraid of research. Also thanks for pointing me toward a moderator. Don't really know what they do, I would guess too keep everybody straight out here.

You have a safe trip and enjoy your family time through this Christmas season.

Sincerely
Steve