7016 rods

Date 04-17-2010 14:39

7016 runs very similiar to 7018. I was told that it was easier to run verical welds with by
the boss on a job years ago. never saw it again on another job.

By A_DAB_will_do (*)

Date 04-17-2010 14:50

Hobart Brothers sells an E7016 electrode, but only in a 50lb can. Call their customer service phone # if you want to order.

I've welded with a little bit of it. It is sometimes used overseas for an uphill low-hy root pass for high strength pipe. It's got more penetration than E7018, but less than E6010. Runs not as smooth as E7018.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 04-17-2010 23:55

If you have the open root bead with 7018, 7016 should be a snap
What you want are Kobe Rods. They come in 10 pound cans.
I may be sending you on a fools errand, but you can get them from Airgas. They can get them and you may find someone on the internet. Call Airgas in Hobbs NM or Odessa TX
One of the best welding supply houses in the oilfield is A & F Welding Supply‎2311 West 42nd Street, Odessa, TX 79764-6308 Telephone (432) 550-9353‎. As opposed to others it is ran by guys that know and support welders. They should have them or can get them to you quickly.
I have tested a lot of welders on the open root LH. With one exception, all who passed used the Kobe rods.
You want the land the same size or a little wider than the electrode you are using.
The same for the gap. If the opening scares you, you are about right. Remember, if the gap is a little wide, you can turn down the heat and slow down, but if it is too tight you will never get it in.
Coming off the tacks, keep the rod at 90 degrees to the bevel. It is almost a drag technique, but not quite. You may need to point the rod tip back toward the weld pool.
The heat setting is critical. And every machine is different. But there is a spot, and it is really small, where the rod just pours into the bevel and ties in.
As you come up on the tack, slow down a little as you come over the tack then point the rod toward the tack as you come off it.

By robgreg1978 (**)

Date 04-18-2010 11:38

Thanks for that info. Me and a friend ran a couple of sch. 40 8" coupons with 7018 and the only problem was the very bottom. But we figured it out It was still a struggle to get a Bead in from 6 o'clock to 7o'clock with out any undercut but the rest went in slick. I have heard it will be easier with the 7016 we tried a few different bevel preps and gaps. The one that worked the best was 1/8 th gap with 3/32 landing using 3/32. I am ready to try some 7016 now. Thanks again

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 04-18-2010 16:06

Sch 40 is light for ORLH. But using the 3/32 and keeping the heat down.
I a guessing the UC is to the higher side. Again, keep the rod tip 90 degrees to the weld pool. If you drop your hand, the rod will tend to undercut to the top side. Have your friend look at your hand as you come off the tack and start heading up.
Try a little wider land and you may try turning down a little.
If you have the bead looking good, to me this is probably a matter of technique or hand position.
Remember, when you go to sch 80, the heat has to go up.
You have my utmost respect in mastering this. Welders capable of open root low hydrogen makes you a true craftsman.