Adding water to dried out xx10

Date 10-15-2010 23:38

No, I don't put XX10 rod in the oven. Correct me if I am wrong but I was taught that XX10 should be stored in a sealed container and not in the oven?

By Cactusthewelder (*****)

Date 10-15-2010 23:57

I store mine in a #3 Washtub

By kcd616

Date 10-16-2010 00:18

I only use a 5 gallon bucket for mine, but that is just for me, not a whole crew. ;-)
But glad to hear that the new flood gates on the levy will be built correctly. :-D :-D :-D
Thank you for your time consideration.

Sincerely,
Kent

By Johnny Walker (***)

Date 10-15-2010 23:58

Have your helper run it threw there lips lol naw really I take a damp rag especially on the pipeliner 5mm 8010g rods and wipe them down it will help keep them from pinholein on the cap pass

By ronnie taylor (**)

Date 10-16-2010 01:40

"Have your helper run it threw there lips" That's just funny... WIPING TEARS!!!! LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

By aevald

Date 10-16-2010 00:39

Hello Kent, I know that there are many different thoughts and practices employed with regard to "10" series electrodes and proper moisture levels. I believe a majority of the rod manufacturers will provide information on their suggested/actual/lab verified optimum levels of moisture for their particular electrode(s). Storage in a rod oven or other heated environment is not one of the methods as far as I have been educated on. The flux falls off/cracks/blows off/the arc blows out sideways back from the end of the rod etc. when the moisture is too low. Stick a rod and heat it to the point where the flux has changed color and try to use it again after that, you'll have trouble with your beads. I am sure that some inspectors would have a heart-rush if they saw you dunking your electrodes, probably wouldn't be my choice for addressing the issue, yet I know that many of you have done this sort of thing for eons with much success. If the testing, tensiles, and other factors are met with your particular approach then the particular method may very well be a sound one. I would venture to say that the particular code or industry that you are serving would have the last word as to acceptability of a particular approach. So good luck gentlemen, I am keeping my ears open to see where this one goes. Best regards, Allan

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 10-16-2010 12:25 Edited 10-16-2010 12:29

I'm with you Allan, wanting to see where this goes. On the gas pipe I just finished I had 4 caps to put on and knew my 50 pound had just enough rod left to finish the job but I knew they were about 5-6 weeks old. Ended up buying two new 10lb 5p to finish off the job, opened them as needed. I get real picky when it comes to gas pipe, no cut corners, worried if my rod is dried out, etc. Just not sure how an older remoisturized rod would compare to a new one, don't have that experience so as you said, very interested in reading more comments.

I wonder if Oil of Olay has something that would work?

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 10-16-2010 18:09

First xx10 rods should NEVER be put in a oven!
If they have been sitting out for 2-3 weeks, discard them or use them for FC work.
When you open a can, put them in some sort of container that can be sealed. A lot of guys use 20MM ammo cans with the seal. This helps keep the moisture in them, but again, 2-3 weeks and change them out.
You cannot rehydrate the rods as you cannot measure the moisture in them. If you put too much in them flux you change the characteristics of the rod. Wrapping them in a wet tee shirt, pouring water over the rods, etc is BS. If I would catch a welder doing that to rods they will be a ROMF. If a welder is dumb enough to do that to a rod making a weld that will go into a DOT regulated line is not smart enough to keep on welding. And that is just me and no I have never seen a welder do it, but there are no limits to stupidity.
If the job you are on does not pay enough for you to have fresh rods, you are working too cheap.

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 10-16-2010 18:28

Thanks Kahunna, I keep mine sealed after opening and have had some folks tell me, just dip them in water.....but like I said, I'm real particular about messing with the gas pipe, don't want any future explosions with my name attached cause I used old rod. Heck, if I didn't have the money I'd still buy fresh! LoL! I'll keep them around for gate installs and stuff like that!

By kcd616

Date 10-16-2010 19:44

Shawn,
No, oil of olay will not work.
Two of large components of cellulosic flux, is carbon and water.
When the arc is engaged the flux is melted and vaporized.
In the ensuing chemical breakdown the water is split off and the hydrogen reacts and burns with the arc to give a hotter arc and there by deeper penetration weld.
The oxygen combines with the carbon to form CO2 and provide the vital shielding gas for the molten weld puddle.
Intermediate Chemistry, but not advanced rocket science.
People think nothing of rebaking lo-hy rods, why not re-hydrate xx10 rods?
My whole point of this thread is to see if the AWS, API, ASME, ASTM, rod manufacture's or anyone else can give me a valid scientific reason why this can not be done.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely,
Kent

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 10-16-2010 20:08

Nice explanation Kent! I enjoy this site everyday from what can be learned. You have a point, with the re-hydrate! Like Duke said, keep them in your humidor with the cigars!

By waccobird (****)

Date 10-16-2010 22:36

kcd616
Big difference in re hydrating and dehydrating.
When I bake my electrodes it isn't from direct moisture contamination it is from atmospheric exposure limits. If they are noticeably wet they get discarded.
If you want to establish and qualify a re hydration procedure and get it approved by the customer then more power to you.
Rods aren't that expensive to require me to play with untried and proven variables and it is too expensive to Qualify.
Just my ¢¢'s
Good Luck
Marshall

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 10-17-2010 04:57

The rod manufacturers do not recommend re-hydrating the XX10 rods but all have procedures for drying low hydrogen electrodes.
The problem is how much water is enough. If you have ever welded with the XX10 rods that have dried out then did the field hydration technique, you will see quickly why it is not done. But again this is being too cheap not to discard the rods and get fresh ones.
Simply because something can be done does not mean it should be. And again, as a field inspector if I saw a welder wetting XX10 rods, they would be gone. And if the contractor was in to big if a $$ bind to not furnish fresh rods they would not be there either.

By kcd616

Date 10-17-2010 15:17

Curtis,
Yes all rod manufacturers have a procedure for drying lo-hy rods, which if left to bake too long can be over dried.
Now how much water is too much? The flux coating is a powder substance that will hold all the liquid it can and then shed the rest, this is science, chemistry pure, simple and basic.
Example, you soak an xx10 rod in water for 1 minute it will absorb all the water the flux can hold, then lay it on a dry newspaper for 3 minutes, the newspaper will pull any excess moisture away from the flux coating, till the flux coating is in balance, science. Simple chemistry.
As far as re-hydrating xx10 people being cheap, that asks the question to re-bake lo-hy rods is being practical, and not being cheap?
Yes I have welded with re-hydrated xx10 rod, and welded with it on both plate and pipe that were for bend tests as far back as the 1970's, that passed.
I know as welding field inspectors, they have the discretion on jobs they work on to tell a welder they can not do something and tell them to leave, the same as the city building inspector if he does not agree with the welding inspectors decisions can tell them they are gone, everybody has a boss.
But to the real point of this topic, I wish to discuss this on a scientific chemistry level. And so far no one has brought a valid position against re-hydration. At least IMHO.
And I am waiting for the AWS, API, ASME and the rod manufacturers to step up and offer their reasons or ideas based on science. Not this is what we say, and that ends their part of the discussion.
Hope this helps clarify my positions and questions on this topic.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely,
Kent

By 522029

Date 10-17-2010 16:08

"Example, you soak an xx10 rod in water for 1 minute it will absorb all the water the flux can hold, then lay it on a dry newspaper for 3 minutes, the newspaper will pull any excess moisture away from the flux coating, till the flux coating is in balance, science. Simple chemistry"

If the above is simple chemistry, I suppose you have the mathematical calculations to validate the procedure? Or maybe references to tests done by others in this field?

Griff

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 10-17-2010 17:50 Edited 10-17-2010 17:56

No way Kent!

Different electrode manufacturers use vastly different...um ... recipies to develop non-low-hydrogen flux.   5P, 5P+, Hoboweld, Atom Arc, etc all have different amounts of similar materials going into the recipie to make the flux.. They will NOT all react the same when soaked in water.

Are you actually suggesting that when an electrode is purchased and taken out of the box that it has the same amount of moisture/water in the flux matrix as if you took a dry electrode and soaked for one minute and then put it on a piece of paper to wick off the extra moisture... That this is any sort of scientific method to determine how to properly handle welding electrodes in code applications???????????   Yikes

Edit:   Plus... There are NO manufactures recommended procedures for drying out actual wet electrodes, whether they are low-hy or non-low-hy... For the Non-low-hy electrodes there are no procedures for oven cycles for heating or drying..period..   There are only procedures to rebake electrodes that have been exposed to ambient atmosphere over a period of time determined to be detremental to the electrode.. Some codes do not even allow for this.

It is not simple or intermediate chemistry to suggest that when a flux covered electrode is soked for on minute that a the exact needed or even a predictable amount of moisture will be taken into the flux.   How soluable a flux is to liquid water depends on more variables than you might imagine.

You mentioned Hydrogen production in an earlier post... Your getting warm there, but must keep in mind that molten weld pools are soluable to Hy and that embrittlement comes from that... Not all Hy is going to burn off to produce heat and nicely wetted toes.. Some will dissolve into the weld deposit and cause troubles you don't want.

Listen to the Big Kahuna...   Use the old dried out stuff for farm code work or discard it. Go ahead and play little experiments with soaking it... But don't use it on code work or a trailer hitch you might be pulling in front of me!

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 10-18-2010 07:53

Hi Lawrence,
With all due respect the Lincoln Electric website has procedures for redrying low hydrogen electrodes.
Re-Drying Conditions - Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Condition - Electrodes which have come in direct contact with water or which have been exposed to high humidity.
Pre-drying temperature (180 - 220 degrees F)
Final Re-drying temperature - E7018 (650 to 750 degrees F)
Regards,
Shane

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 10-18-2010 11:15 Edited 10-18-2010 11:19

Touche'

Still against drying and reusing water wet electrodes for code work.

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 10-18-2010 12:18

Lawrence,
I am definitely against, just trying to point out there are a lot of conflicting opinions on the practice,
Regards,
Shane

By Lawrence (*****)

Date 10-18-2010 12:38

Your totally right Shane. Learned something new today.

I was pretty sure of myself... Thats what I get for speaking in absolutes when there are so many different governing bodies who can have something to say about it.

By waccobird (****)

Date 10-18-2010 16:20

Shane Feder
With All due respect.
That is all well and good but the last time I checked AWS didn't allow for the baking of wet electrode just atmospheric exposure considerations.
But here is what I found at Lincoln
Some electrodes from wet containers or long exposure to high humidity can be re-dried. Adhere to the procedures in the following table for each type.
E7018 is not in the table referred to and final line reads
Using longer drying times or higher temperatures can easily damage the electrodes. For drying, remove the electrodes from the container and spread them out in the furnace because each stick electrode must reach the drying temperature.
My answer to the query if the Low Hydrogen Electrode gets wet discard it.
Good Luck
Marshall

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 10-19-2010 00:02

Marshall,
I am not sure where you are looking but here is the link and the table.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/storing.asp

Re-Drying Conditions - Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes

Condition Pre-drying Temperature(1)    Final Re-drying Temperature
   E7018, E7028    E8018, E9018,E10018, E11018

Electrodes exposed to air N/A    650 to 750°F 700 to 800°F
for less than one week;    (340 to 400°C) (370 to 430°C)
no direct contact with water.

Electrodes which have come 180 to 220°F 650 to 750°F    700 to 800°F
in direct contact with water    (80 to 105°C) (340 to 400°C) (370 to 430°C)
or which have been exposed
to high humidity.

(1) Pre-dry for 1 to 2 hours. This will minimize the tendency for coating cracks or oxidation of the alloys in the coating

I am in no way trying to justify this practice, I am definitely against it. My posting was for two reasons
(1) Lawrence had stated there were no manufacturers procedures for drying electrodes exposed to water and I tried to clarify by posting from a well known American manufacturer.
(2) There appears to be a fair bit of disagreement in the welding world on what is acceptable practice when it comes to heating cellulosic electrodes and I was putting forward some various information relating to that.

In closing, I would definitely sack any welder I caught dunking electrodes in a bucket of water for whatever reason,
Regards,
Shane

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 10-19-2010 00:28

Marshall,
Just found another bit of info from AWS SFA 5.5

A6.11.3 If there is a possibility that the noncellulosic
covered electrodes may have absorbed excessive
moisture, they may be reconditioned by rebaking. Some
electrodes require rebaking at a temperature as high
as 800°F (425°C) for approximately 1 to 2 hours

As I said it is very confusing because there is a lot of conflicting information out there.
Regards,
Shane

By kcd616

Date 10-19-2010 17:28

Lar,
I will quote you just so no mistake.
" Different electrode manufacturers use vastly different...um ... recipies to develop non-low-hydrogen flux. 5P, 5P+, Hoboweld, Atom Arc, etc all have different amounts of similar materials going into the recipie to make the flux.. They will NOT all react the same when soaked in water."
Yes they do very slightly, but just like a cake mix it is only a slight difference or it could not be a cellulosic rod. They are all cellulosic flux which main ingredients are carbon and water.
" You mentioned Hydrogen production in an earlier post... Your getting warm there, but must keep in mind that molten weld pools are soluable to Hy and that embrittlement comes from that... Not all Hy is going to burn off to produce heat and nicely wetted toes.. Some will dissolve into the weld deposit and cause troubles you don't want. "
By the same token a cellulosic rod that is even a little dried out will lack the water in it there by being short oxygen to produce the CO2 that is needed to shield the molten weld puddle, also one of the reasons cellulosic welds have such a light thin easy to remove slag coating.
Having spent a great deal of my life in Los Angeles, Ca where I started welding and learned welding, (which BTW has some of the strictest building and welding codes in the world.) I know how fast a rod can dry out in 100+ degree weather with 0 humidity.
This is a very interesting discussion.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely,
Kent

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 10-19-2010 17:50

You get one of the rod manufacturers to agree with your position and I may have a open mind.
Again, if it was as simple as you state, why is it not common practice.
The Risk/Consequence of adding water to a cellulose coated rod is greater than the Cost/Benefit. Same for re-baking LH rods.
And if the welder would just properly store the rods, this would not be a issue. I know guys with the 20MM ammo cans that keep rods for months with no issues. But put a open can on the back of the truck in 100 degree 20%RH days and they go to poo poo.
And for doing FC work, go ahead and soak them. Do some 6011's. They burn real good when they have been wet, then dried.
If the flux stays on them.

By jrw159

Date 10-21-2010 01:11

"And if the welder would just properly store the rods, this would not be a issue."

BigK,
This would be too easy. :-) .....

"If the flux stays on them.".... nice. LOL

jrw159

By welderbrent (*****)

Date 10-18-2010 04:22

You sure throw those 'simple, pure, science, chemistry, basic' words around alot. Problem is you don't seem to know what they really mean. Otherwise you would show US some of that simple and basic chemistry and science.

Science would indicate that experimentation had been done which was repeatable and successful in proving the theory which had been proposed. And in the case of a proposed practice involving the public safety it needs to be successful to a degree which clears the conscience of all that the absolute best and safest had been done. I have not seen that evidence presented here so far on YOUR part. Science is an absolute part of the testing and experimentation that happens every day for a good many years by AWS and ALL the other welding related institutions to verify the practices, procedures, equipment, consummables, and other components used in our trade/profession. That's why so much is made of WPS's, PQR's, and all the testing that goes into proving a particular practise as being safe and successful.

Chemistry would mean there is a lot more to your method than the 'SIMPLE' description of soaking and removing the excess moisture from the electrodes. It would involve chemical analysis of the electrodes at manufacturing, after opening the sealed container, upon drying out, after re-hydrating to PROVE that it had successfully accomplished it's objective. It would involve bend, tensile, yield, hardness, chemical analysis of the completed weld and weld coupons to PROVE that the finished product had indeed been successfully welded to provide proper material for strength, ductility, hardness, lack of cracks, porosity, or other weld discontinuities so that it's safe and dependable service life could be trusted to be what the engineer expected and the public deserves.

So far, all I see in this thread is negative bashing of our organization for not getting involved in a worthless discussion with someone who has an axe to grind. What job did you get thrown off of? Someone didn't like your backwoods practice of re-hydrating rods and told you they couldn't be used?

Re-hydrating electrodes without proper evidence of it's finished product is nothing but guess work by a backyard, shadetree mechanic with self taught ego and pride that someone stepped on. I don't care how many times you claim you have done it. How many times have you TESTED it? By a TOTAL set of testing by an independent lab?

There is nothing SIMPLE about re-hydrating electrodes. And you have not shown us ANY Science or Chemistry to PROVE your position or show your theory has merit to even a momentary consideration.

Rebaking has the science and testing behind it and years of successful usage. There is no comparison between the two.

Have a Great Day, Brent

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 10-19-2010 02:20

OK, I cant keep My mouth shut any longer.

There 2 types of moisture being addressed here, free moisture and combined moisture, and they are not the same.

Combined moisture is what You are removing with the high temperatures of a 7018 bake out.

Free moisture is what You remove with the pre bake lower [roughly boiling point] temperatur mentioned in the above literature.

Free moisture adds hydrogen to a rod, influences how it burns, how the fluxes work and will cause oxidation of the wire and additives in the flux over time.

Combined moisture adds hydrogen to the weld, so You don't want any in a LH rod.

Celulistic rods are depending on some combined moisture for proper results. That is why You shouldn't bake them at high temperature.

Where drying of celulistic rods is allowed, the temperature is lower, in the range that will remove mostly free moisture.

Have any of You ever measured the total moisture content of the celulistic rods that You determined to be too dry compaired to that of a new, fresh off the manufacturing line new rod? As Shane points out, they will be pretty "dry" and will not have free moisture.

Have any of You seen any commentary from the manufacturers regarding over drying of electrodes stored at ambient temperatures? I am pretty sure it couldn't happen where I live, and have My doubts about anywhere els as well.

With trgards to celulistic electrodes, if You had stored them at 100-120F as per Lincoln, I doubt You would be having this problem.

"If exposed to humid air for long periods of time, stick electrodes from opened containers may pick up enough moisture to affect operating characteristics or weld quality.
If moisture appears to be a problem, store electrodes from the opened containers in heated cabinets at 100 to 120°F (40 to 50°C)."

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/storing.asp

This is worth every bit You paid for it,

By Duke

Date 10-16-2010 00:48

Keep em in with your cigars

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 10-18-2010 07:45

Hi guys,
Very interesting subject and after a quick bit of research (OK Google) it appears there are some very different opinions - even AWS has anomolies.
AWS SFA 5.1 - E6010 / 6011 Storage conditions
Ambient Air - Ambient Temperature
Holding Ovens - Not recommended
Drying conditions - Not recommended

AWS SFA 5.5 - EXX10 / EXX11
Ambient Air - Ambient Temperature
Holding Ovens - 100 - 120 degrees fahrenheit / 38 - 49 degrees celcius
Drying conditions - Not recommended

TWI (UK) The Welding Institute recommends redrying at 100 - 120 degrees celcius if cellulose electrodes become too damp.

Lincoln state cellulosic electrodes can be stored in heated cabinets, typically 100 to 120 degrees fahrenheit (40 to 50 degrees C)

Cellulose electrodes are "baked" at approx 150 degrees C when they are extruded so it would be safe to assume you will not damage moisture content of a cellulosic electrode if you store it at less than the original "bake" temperature.
Everyone seems pretty much in agreement that you MUST NEVER bake or rebake a cellulose electrode but the use of holding ovens seems open to debate.

I have seen Lincoln 5P electrodes dunked in a bucket of water numerous times (30 years ago when I was a welders helper) and all passed 100% RT. However, now I am a CWI and realise how lenient the acceptance criteria is for API 1104 it certainly makes a difference.
Regards,
Shane

By kcd616

Date 10-19-2010 17:40

Shane,
All cellulose rods are baked, just like a cake or bread at 150 C or about 350 F for a set period of time just like a cake.
All of which the bread, the cake and the rods will dry out, have the moisture cooked out of them, if baked to long, and be no good.
Now would anyone keep a loaf of bread at 100 F and not expect to dry out? Nope.
And when you deal with cellulosic rods, water is a key component with which you need all the oxygen to form the CO2 for the shielding gas or you will get other gas invading the molten weld puddle.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely,
Kent

By Len Andersen (***)

Date 11-23-2010 19:44

Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have five patents that have run out with an orientation to welding with dampness or underwater welding. There is hydrogen delayed cracking. After the United States produced about 5,000 merchant ships 1942 to 1945 we figured out how to do dry rod practice better. Many people lost their life’s with weld failures due to and since then due to delay hydrogen cracking. The control of such does not keep up with new steels. No cracks in 48 hours and found 180 days later. I strongly suggest if a 6010 or is not running good go to another brand. If off spec on "dry rod" practice etc set them aside for hoppy stuff or training someone. I hope my views are helpful.
Sincerely
Len Andersen
212-839-6599, 4042 FAX / 914-237-7689 (H) / 914-536-7101 (Mobil)
800-428-4801
POB 1529 / NYC 10116 ( $1040 per year Caller Box GPO NYC )

By 803056

Date 10-18-2010 20:55

Rehydrating EXX10 and EXX11 electrodes is a bit like asking your wife to wear a pair of pantyhose to bed just to make it feel like the first time again.

I believe the stabilizers used in EXX10 and EXX11, potassium and sodium, may be water soluble. In any event, unless you have a welding procedure that was qualified with "rehydrated" electrodes, there is no telling what you have for mechanical properties.

Just because someone does it, doesn't mean it is good practice. Hell, even I had to stop when I was told I needed glasses.

Best regards - Al

By ssbn727 (*****)

Date 10-18-2010 21:27 Edited 10-18-2010 21:30

I agree Al ,and aren't we loosing track regarding what was really sparking this very interesting discussion??? Meaning whether or not re-hydrating was an acceptable practice as opposed to whether or not there is a universal method of rebaking XX10 or 11 SMAW electrodes... The two are definitely not the same IMHO so lets not blur the lines between the 2 please. ;)

IMHO, XX10 or 11 electrodes should never be re-hydrated, and it's a whole lot more safer, and wiser to be cautious and opt to replace the wet electrodes with fresh, dry electrodes which come straight out of an unopened can...

These electrodes are much cheaper than Low hydrogen electrodes, and if the same level of care was applied in the handling and storage of the cellulose electrodes as is applied with Low-hydrogen electrodes, we wouldn't even be having this discussion... That is if we can assume (I hate that word! ;) ) that everyone is also following the recommended handling and storage practices given not only by the manufacturers, but also from what is written in certain welding codes and electrode standards...

Al said it best: "Just because someone does it, doesn't mean it is good practice." Why do you think these recommendations originate from "Best Practices."
In summary follow the guidelines set forth in both the manufacturers recommendations and the appropriate welding codes and electrode standards without any question of what is recommended and at the very least, the electrodes most likely cannot be blamed for bad welds if they are present in the work.

Respectfully,
Henry

By 803056

Date 10-18-2010 21:55

Isn’t it stated in D1.1 that rods that have been wet shall not be used?

I understand that the poor blokes using API 1104 or ASME don't have the plethora of information at their fingertips that those using D1.1 have. Still, good welding practices are still good welding practices regardless of whether the applicable welding standard addresses a particular situation or not.

Electrodes are inexpensive compared to a weld that has to be repaired or the cost of litigation should something go bang in the middle of the night. There are enough unknowns to contend with without adding questionable practices to the mix.

Best regards - Al

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 10-19-2010 01:20 Edited 10-19-2010 02:21

Post moved to under Kent's post.

By kcd616

Date 11-21-2010 03:16

I waited.
So far AWS, Lincoln, ASTM, Hobert and others.
Have not made a statement against me.
I gave them 30 day, plus..
Guess what guys I win.
I really respect Jon and Joe, and others here.
Tell me where I am wrong.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely,
Kent

By weldwade (***)

Date 11-21-2010 04:09

I don't know??? I give up... What guys did you win?

By ronnie taylor (**)

Date 11-21-2010 05:09 Edited 11-21-2010 06:22

Michael Arrington. arrinmi@hobartbrothers.com, I met this gentleman when I was in tech college, VERY nice man. He gave a powerpoint on electrodes, He use to be part of the research & development team at hobart brothers. He might be able to help you in your quest.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 11-21-2010 13:24

Ok, you win.
Boy do I feel stupid thinking what the electrode manufacturers and AWS recommends should be followed.
Where do you want the prize sent to.

By welderbrent (*****)

Date 11-21-2010 15:46

Waiting 30 days doesn't prove anything.

Did you properly file a 'Technical Question' under the conditions stated within the Code annexes and send it to the Technical Committee?

They don't meet as often as you post so it may take awhile for your question to be brought before the committee, researched, and finally responded to.

You can claim 'I win' all you want. You proved absolutely nothing except the same ignorance and lack of science that you accused everyone else of.

API 1104 says they shall be protected from "excessive changes in moisture". If they have dried out enough that they need/require re-hydrating then that supposes an excessive change in moisture where what was provided from the manufacturer got excessively dry, then you dunk it and get it excessively wet, then you dry it back out to where you BELIEVE it is the proper moisture content to be used successfully. All of which is nothing but guess work and in clear violation of the Code.

Without the proper testing of a Welding Procedure to prove that the re-hydrating operation produces sound weld material that meets all tensile, yield, and other properties you have no basis for even considering the usage of electrodes that have been 're-hydrated' and no committee has any reason to consider your off the wall question. It needs proper documentation.