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So I was playin around today and running some tig roots, The only way it would come out really well was if i ran a 5/32 gap. I was running around 190amps. How do you guys run tig roots, walking the cup?, adding filler now and then?. anyway thanks to all, and hope everyone is doing well. shannon
I always set my gap just a touch smaller than whatever size rod i am using so the rod just hangs on the bevels, and just run over the tig wire with cup. Usually works pretty good. Hope this helps some.
Are you talking about Mild Steel or SS? Whether I am running MS or SS I run a 5/32 or 3/16 gap but I like to feed the wire from inside the pipe. Your amps sounded a bit high. Were you getting decent build up of the root face?
it was running in awesome, high amps for 4'' xx heavy. open to suggestions :)
I agree with JeremyW83,
5/32" to 3/16" gap with 1/8" wire and feed the wire from inside the pipe. Sch 10 SS for 8" and down I use 5/32" to 3/16" gap with 3/32" wire. It's like novacaine works everytime it's tried.
Jim
I like an 1/8" rod, 37.5 bevels, knife edge, and 3/32 root. Maybe a 1/64" - 1/32" land if the wall is under a 1/4" or so. I run maybe 125 - 150 amps depending on wall thickness.
I keep the electrode directly over the rod, rotating it on its axis to get the cup to slide up the joint quickly, but without moving the tip of the electrode side to side.
For smaller, thinner walled pipe I lay the rod in the joint like for walking the cup but free hand the torch... dragging 3 fingers on the pipe wall to stabilize the torch and maintain a consistant arc length.
thankyou, So I am not out of line feeding filler rod for the root
It depends on the wire size you are running in relation to the root opening.
If you are running a root opening that is slightly smaller than the wire, you should not need to feed the rod unless something goes wrong.... like if you don't keep the fill rod tangent to the pipe, or long arc, or try and wash the root up on the bevel faces... these things will cause the wire to seperate from the puddle. Then you would need to get the wire back in ASAP, or else face gunny sacks hanging inside the pipe.
Of course if you wash the root up on the bevel faces you will also probably have to contend with a concave profile inside the bottom half of the pipe, as well as a root that closes up before you get all the war around.
By stanantonio
Date 11-17-2010 05:43
Weaver I run just about like you do. I like to run a wide gap to where my wire feeds through the pipe. Being hot just means you have to move faster. No big deal. I usually free hand the bottom just (then go to a walking motion about a quarter of way up off the bottom) cause I like to look through the gap and am comfortable with my abilities rather than try to get underneath the pipe. With that kinda heat there is no need to grind starts and stops. Just start about a quarter inch before your tie in and soak it coming up to your start to get your bead or root hot enough to tie into. If you can do that root in the field. I would say there would be no worry of a job loss. If you ever feel like your chasing your root or feeling like your going to loose it. Just break arc. and then adjust accordingly.
I like to use a 3/32 filler rod with a slightly larger root gap to allow for metal expansion so I can get the filler in the gap all the way around.
I got a question, what about key holing? I understand this with a stick but you can't whip tig? I've tried to walk the cup but my root always seems flat w/ no penetration in spots. I've heard key hole is key for root pass. It's hard to describe how to weld Thanks
Hi JCP
Sorry but your question is not clear. What are you asking?
Let's see when I see the hole in my root pass i try to dip the filler rod but it's inconsistant , maby I'm feeding the filler rod in too deep? I've tried to walk the cup over my filler rod but I can't seem to get any penetration that way.I guess I haven't found that sweet spot where the weld runs smoothly just yet
Turned up the heat a little and gapped about3/16, about a dime on my land. came out better this time I'll just keep practicing thanks
In the Boilermaker trade, I've found this techique effective:
On tube welding, 6G test, I set the gap slightly less than the 3/32" filler rod. I've also found it better to keep the amps lower than field welding as it's easier to control for a test. Light your arc on the BEVEL and wait for the puddle to form (again, low heat) and work it into your wiating filler rod. You can back off and come back if you get in trouble with the root pass. Keep the root pass THIN as there's no need to deposit a massive quantity of metal with the first pass. Filler rod angle I use is flat against the bevel. No dipping at all. Keep it cool and smooth. Lay the rod against the bevel and consume it AS you weld by pushing slightly as needed. Tough to explain in a post but dipping is for when you get in trouble as in opening a keyhole up or something nasty. There are many ways to pass a welding test but this works for me and the majority of welders I've worked with who actually care about the trade. FIND WHAT WORKS FOR YOU and stick with it. We are not allowed to use grinders or power tools on our make-or-break tests in the Boilermakers trade. A file and chipping hammer plus a wire brush. That's it. GTAW root with SMAW fill and cap. GTAW/SMAW 2.75" heavy wall tube test in 6G position, Open Root. Three point inspection hold for tack, root and fill/cap. ASME Boiler Code.
edited out the non-relevant comments-moderator
I really enjoyed reading the first part of your post awspartb. Very informative and great info thanks for sharing your experience.
I think the second part of your post is total BS! You are a cocky A$$ Hole always trying to start crap. Sounds like you are good at your trade, that’s good, but I guarantee you would not last in the pipeline world and that is a fact! I doubt you could make it as a Rig Welder either. You are a TROLL! Send the pipeline hands a PM if you wanna talk crap, that is if you have a pair! You’re a real tough guy on your key board! Keep your garbage off the public forum, I for one am tired of it.
edited out the non-relevant comments-moderator
Once again after reading one of your posts.. wow. I figured out the root on my own but thanks..regards
Glad you got it figured out Shannon, congrats!
Cool!!!! I just found the ignore button when I looked to see what your name is in your profile. 99% of the crap you post is garbage so I don't think there will be any big loss to clicking on that "ignore" button. Glad I found it!
Your pretty sure of that aren't you awspartb? What Local you out of?
"How about pure nickle?" Get your facts straight before you post crap in here at the very least! There isn't any "pure nickel" test!
Do yourself a favor and find out exactly what type of alloy you're talking about before you exceed in making yourself even more foolish than you already are - CAPECHE???
Henry
By stanantonio
Date 11-17-2010 05:15
Edited 11-18-2010 01:31
Obvious by your many previous posts that you are a tried and true comercial horizontal plumbing expert and retired as stated in earlier posts which all of this comumity is very thankful for. I really feel sorry for ya. Per stated in eariler post that your union "pension is down". If you ever get tight on cash and get tired of throwin trash on this forum call me...(580) 761-1877. I could put you to work tomarrow... you could be my helper and I am being in all honesty serious. I'd like to show you some magic work. Did you know that people back in early ages that were true metalurgist ranked right up there with kings. Well let me show you some magic.
By stanantonio
Date 11-17-2010 05:16
meant awbser
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