I may be mistaken but I thought a ranger 250 was DC only, if so bad choice.
Jim,
Simply put, yes, a Ranger 250 will do what you want it to, but will require other machinery in order to do so. This machinery that will be required will be either a wire feed machine, preferably with a spoolgun or similar setup, or a Tig. Either way, both will requre shielding gas, which requires that you are in a fairly stable atmosphere (no wind)- in other words, that you are inside while doing the welding. This kinda blows the need for an independent power source since most barns, shops, ect. have power to them, not to mention the extra cash for unnecessary equipment.
My suggestion would be to go to www.lincolnelectric.com or www.millerwelds.com and search their products page for MIG machines or TIG machines. I have found that Miller does have some of the best MIGs that you can find, and the Syncrowave Tig that we use does a very good job, but I have also been told that Lincoln's Tigs are superior, but this is only by word of mouth. Either way, you should be able to find what is best suited for your skill level and needs.
Hope that helps!
G. L.
I greatly appreciate your input on all this. I think I will go into small engine repair since it won't cost no where near as much and the wife won't get mad at the money spent. But I will invest in a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 175 Pro, so I can repair the boat hulls. It should be enough to start out with as far as welding aluminum is concerned. Atleast thats what im getting from reading all these posts. I am right.... correct??
Assuming these hulls are not very thick, I think that the 175 Pro would work just fine. A lot of my time is spent building 1/4" thick driveshaft safety loops and parts shieldings out of aluminum, and 175-200 amps, if I am not mistaken, is pretty much where I max out. However, remember that TIG can be pretty tough to get used to when you are having to control a footpedal, TIG torch, and filler metal while balancing yourself while leaning over a boat hull. Don't get discouraged too quickly.
Good luck!
G.L.
Jim,
How thick is the aluminum on the boat hull. I would assume it has to be greater than 1/8". If so, you may be able to use the Lincoln Ranger 250 with Aluminum Stick Welding Electrodes. Stick would probably also be a better candidate for the 1/2" steel. The drawback to this is that stick is not necessarily a finnesse process. With some practice you will be able to lay down good beads, but you will not be able to weld anything less than about 1/8" thick. For the thinner stuff, you'd do better with a MIG or TIG. The advantage to stick combined with the Ranger is that you can weld anywhere.
Noah
Hello Jim,
I'm welding a 28' sportscruiser out of aluminum. The max thickness is .500" (keel). Frames are .25 btm .188 and sides are .125".
I'm using a Millermatic 250 with a spoolmatic 30A. The 30A stands for 30 feet of wire (could be shorter as in 15) and A is for air cooled.
Now for my opinion:
1) Cable could be a little shorter but I have not yet welded the entire hull together. Most likely the 30 feet will come in handy.
2) The Millermatic 250 was the correct size to get. Enough power in most cases (if not all). Glad i didnt go w/ a smaller size.
3) Getting a engine driven system does make sense if you could afford the extra cost up front. Note you could/will get big utility bills that would offset the cost of the portable unit. I just could not justify the cost up front in my book.
4) About air cooled spooolgun, i would liked to consider a XR type water cooled gun (to increase duty cycle) but that would be an additional $2k on top of the system above.
5) The pluses are the Millermatic 250 w/ the spoolmatic 30A is pretty much a good system. Would definitely recommend again. Im just starting out and it is what i needed for a little over 2k. Welds in the .25" (and others) look nice and test strong.
Good luck w/ your projects
also check out metalboatsociety.com
has a good forum re:
they have alot of other info for other stuff also