Aluminum questions

By SMTatham (**)

Date 03-10-2011 13:32

Maybe give these guys a call. They make some sharp looking aluminum decks. http://www.acemfginc.com/

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 03-11-2011 02:26

I THINK the aluminum diamond plate I have used is 3xxx, but as it came from an industrial salvage yard, it is hard to know. The extrusions were 6061 T6 or T651. You don't bend the heat treated stuff. You can cut all of it with a Skill Saw and miter saw with a normal carbide tipped blade. 5xxx probably weathers the best, 5083 & 5086 being commonly used for aluminum yachts, and it is tough. I replaced a section of the floor in an aluminum dump bed with 6061 T6 [I think], it has been holding up OK for several years now. I prefer the way 4043 filler runs over 5356, and I usually run 3/64 diameter wire on 1/8 and over material. I usually run it a little short of spray transfer [shame on Me] but it has worked out OK. .035 filler is easier to handle, I am more likely to run that in spray transfer.

I adhere strictly to FC-2002, use materias from the salvage yard, and build hell for stout, as it only has to last for the rest of forever. Luck has been with Me so far...

If You plan to use the LN-25, You might keep an eye out for a short conduit strate gun. I use a spool gun, it works for Me.

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 03-11-2011 11:07

Thanks for the info Dave, didn't think about a skill saw. I figured I'd pick up a spool gun since it could be used elsewhere for certain.

Shawn

By Superflux (****)

Date 03-11-2011 12:38

For 1/8" and under, I have used a plywood blade installed Backwards on a skill saw.

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 03-11-2011 17:00

I'm thinking I'll be going with a .190" thickness, not bad on pricing and will be strong with the plan in my head. Got two thumbs up from two guys I talked to about what I am gonna do, one said, Awesome and another said, sweet. Only took me 3 years of thinking about what I wanted it to look like. I'll keep everyone updated, don't want to let the cat out of the bag as this will be as unique a bed as anybody has ever seen, hehehe. Also have some other ideas I'm gonna put on to make it easier to work off the back, again, mum's the word, this is Shawn's NASA project, LoL!

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 03-12-2011 04:47

hey Shawn Dave has given you some good advice. 3xxx series metals will be easy to work, braking, bending , beating with no drama on cracking. Some 5xxx series are still very workable...sorry cannot remember which. Any T6 or 6xxx is definitely very prone to cracking if you must bend it....you can ease this by warming to around 450 but then it is not even close to being 6xxx anymore. If you get material with an "O" designation it will be not up to temper material and can be bent to suit...of course it is expected you will heat treat it afterwards. I would investigate and find the right 5 series. Lots of 70+mph aluminum boat manufactures use a 5xxx series because of workability and weld ability with a durable crack resistant product after the fact. The really big thing with aluminum in my mind is managing the loads, vibration and especially the mounting points....if you engineer that right it will work out fine. Think about a jet wing...the loads they endure through incredible cycle numbers is simply amazing....then look at some of your aluminum trailers or boats you see busted all to crap......managing the stress load and distribution is the key.

It is a heckuva project to tackle....I look forward to hearing how it goes.

Take care bud
TOmmy

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 03-12-2011 15:30

Thanks for the replies guys. Bought time I learned more about the aluminum anyhow!! I can see where something prone to cracking may be an issue riding on the back of a bouncy truck all the time! I'm thinking that most of the stuff will be sheared, some pieces most likely laser or water jet. There's a place up from me that I can order sizes from and they'll cut to size so thinking I'll have them do that and save me the jigsawing. It won't have any places that need to be bent or rolled from the blueprints in my head! The more I think about it and talk about it I'm getting pumped up to get it going but also have to stand back and think, take your time, don't rush it. My biggest concern with the hole idea is toolbox doors that don't leak! I've got three boxes around the bed itself and they are useless except for anything that you don't mind getting rusty, need to fix that problem.

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 03-13-2011 01:37

Shawn as far as your toolboxes go....you can go to a truck equipment dealer and get two different kinds of rubber...one slips over the edge of like an angle or break inside you box...the other is just a round rubber with one flat side that glues in place. Take a minute and go by one of these places and look how the boxes are built.....you can fab up two or three for the price of one of theirs out of 14 ga easily.

For cutting aluminum you can do it with a cut off disc or my personal favorite is a piranha blade on a skillsaw turned the right way round....the piranha blade (special carbide tip blade made for cutting aluminum) will flat out cut pretty thick aluminum....just make sure every inch of skin is covered and HOLD ON to that saw. it is messy but I can cut an aluminum boat in half in about four minutes.

By Smooth Operator (***)

Date 03-13-2011 22:33

Cummins, You can buy toolboxes on the net WAY cheaper than you can make them for, plus never had a leak problem on any of them!!!!!

By Cumminsguy71 (*****)

Date 03-14-2011 00:35

I've got my tsc boxes on the top but I'm looking at under the bed boxes tied into the skirts. If I'm building my own bed might as well go all out. I'll keep the tsc boxes on the top, those pipeliner well type toolboxes just won't fit what I do most of the time.

By Smooth Operator (***)

Date 03-14-2011 03:42

Cummins, Northern Tool & Hydraulics sells under body boxes in aluminum in numerous different sizes !!!!!

By Tommyjoking (****)

Date 03-14-2011 10:25

Yea I was NOT thinking aluminum boxes as well....nevermind. I am sure you can buy them cheaper then build them....I was thinking steel. Been pricing some myself lately and have decided just to get some sheets of 14 ga and brake them up myself.

By weldwade (***)

Date 03-13-2011 22:51

Shawn I have cut miles of Aluminum with a skill saw. I have learned that turning the blade backwards works just about as good as a dull knive on wood. The best blades I have used are the Non Ferrous blades from Freud Diablo. My trick is to use an old 2x4 or any scrap wood under the cut. I set the blade just into the wood, it keeps the blade clean and cool. Wax works good also.

By low_hydrogen (**)

Date 03-12-2011 14:03 Edited 03-12-2011 14:07

If you can get your hands on a worm drive skill saw and run the blade the correct way works great! Also the evolution skill saw with the aluminium blade works great also.

I use those little 5" blades? that fit those small battery operated skill saws. I drill the center hole out and install them on my 4" grinder backwards. also have to modify the guard it is an extremely dangerous tool!!! but works great if you start ahead of what you want to smooth out and drag backwards across you work piece. if it were to ever get away form a person it would take limbs off in the blink of an eye so i am NOT recomending anyone try this at home!! it's just something I discovered that gets me out of a jam ever now and again.

I am with you on the 4043 I think it runs out better for me than the 50

Stainless steel wire wheel brushes and clean work piece will be the key to welding preformance

P.S. Watch out for flying carbide tips off of the blades!! And wear a hoodie sweat shirt it's like sand in your shorts when it goes down the back of your shirt and down your britches lol!!