combination of different lengths.... say you were going to bend flanges all the way around to make a toolbox lid?? If you had different lengths of "fingers" you can make that box different size (length x width)

For a Saw, I would say it is HANDS DOWN a Steel Max 14" steel Blade saw.

Cold saw or abrasive saw?  Each one has pros and cons.  Cold saw (liquid coolant runs onto the circular blade when cutting) is great for stainless steel, mild steel or precision cutting without the need for a lot of prepping the cut edge.  The down side of that cold saw is the cost of the blades.  To much pressure on the cutting handle and you break the blade.  The big round abrasive saw saw is great for fast cutting most metals.  Precision isn't as good as a cold saw but the cutting wheels are not that expensive but it does require more time to prep the cut edges.  Having one of each in a shop should cover most of your cutting issues.

I agree with 99205 on most points. I would NOT USE a cold saw on hard [heat reated too hard to machine] material, this is the place for an abrasive saw. With the proper abrasives, You can cut fully hardened steels, and alloys that will shorten the cutting life between sharpenings on cold saw blades.

There is a world of difference betwen a light portable abrasive saw, and a permanant mounted shop abrasive saw, which do You have?

The Steel Max is not really a cold saw, and not an abrasive saw either, but may well be the best of it's type [carbide tooth dry cut saw].

Hey phaux,
You need to understand the different terminology as to saw cutting definition.

An abrasive saw uses an abrasive disc that deteriorates as it is cutting....the disc could be considered as a consummable. The disadvantages are that it produces a heavy level of abrasive dust that needs to be vented either by overhead exhaust fan or dust collector that can be as simple as a small hood with a shop vac hose(3") attached. It can be quite a mess without some method of collecting the dust. Also, the cut will not be as nearly as accurate as a steel blade because of flexing of the disc. Many complain about not getting good mitres with an abrasive saw. The only positive attribute is cost....they're much cheaper.

A cold saw is generally a much more powerful saw that is used in a heavy cutting fab shop. They are a steel blade either HSS or carbide tipped & generally run at a very low rpm that gives it the ability to do some serious cutting. These saws are geared as low as 54rpm & most operate with a coolant. Blades are also quite expensive. They are much cleaner as far as residual cutting chips getting spread out from the work station.

The 3rd....my favorite & what I use daily is a 14" dry-cut saw(Porter-Cable). It is a lower rpm(1300rpm) using a C7/72T tungsten-tipped blade that cuts straight, great mitres, up to 4" dia(rd or sq tube) material with ease, cut 3" solid without issue, & needs no coolant to maintain blade life. I get between 1200-1600 cuts on steel(NO SS!!!) before sharpening is needed & twice that with aluminum/brass/copper. The blades are economically priced at $40(14" Freud Diablo Metal Demon) & I have an inexpensive blade sharpener(HF) that re-sharpens the tung. tips easily.

Lastly, many use a 10" hand saw w/tung tips that will also work.....you must be very aware of using these & apply serious safety rules. They can be quite effective on field jobs having a smaller footprint & ease of use. They are limited to the thickness of material & cutting odd shaped material(sq/rect/angle) although can cut sheetmetal very effectively. I also use a 10" table saw w/C5/60T tung-tip blade for all the aluminum sheet I cut. You must use a blade rated for the much higher rpm of a table saw. AGAIN.......BE SAFE!!!!!!!

Attached are pics of my setups & applications I do & website where I get all my blades. Hope this will give you some mental fodder to contemplate.

Denny

Blade distributer: http://cripedistributingstore.com/index.php/saw-blades/freud-diablo-steel-demon-14-x-72t-ferrous-metal-blade-ro.html

Some pics:

phaux, you the guy I owed some pipe to? Just got out of prison. A bad deal for everyone, I'm afraid..... Give me a shout if you are the guy. It's been killing me having loose ends. Thanks.

My work is so general I like a simple chop saw.

Ya, I've been looking at putting together a hydraulic press with a brake attachment for smaller thicker stuff. Found a Di-Acro 24" finger brake for $100 I think I'm going to pick up. This guy built his own CNC brake, pretty good write up:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=840111

More money, time, and talent than I have, very impressive.

I'm not sure why you would need to chickweldor, other than, I know several of my employees have had a hard time understanding how to get the amount of pressure for feeding correct to keep from glazing the blade as it goes through.  Pipe is thick enough and has enough surface area at the top you have to get the pressure right to keep from getting the pipe and the blade too hot.  Then, as it drops down you need to slow down a little so you don't crowd it too much and burn up the motor from too much resistance.

If you leave a piece of anything loose in a chop saw you stand a risk of flipping parts, twisting the blade from parts moving, parts spinning out of your hand, and other hazardous situations.  I wouldn't recommend it.

Have a Great Day,  Brent

chick weldor,
For (large solid stock or) sch 80 1-1/2" and 2" pipe I would cut down until reaching the bottom of the pipe and then Shut it down, rotate 90 degrees or so, then reclamp securely and finish the cut. This would also let you know how close to square you are cutting and if adjustment is needed. Never use it without the stock secured in a clamp. Also make sure the end(s) is (are) properly supported if dealing with long pieces.
Hand holding material in a saw is not a good idea. Sometimes the vises are not very good at holding smooth round stock and can let it spin. Not all saws and the vises are created equally.

The method Superflux mentioned will make burr removal easier, as the cut through the bottom will part the pipe with the radiused edge of the blade leaving a "fin" that will need to be removed later. This "fin" will cut You badly if You are not carefull in handling the parts. If the cut end will be prepped with a bevel or coped immediatly, there is less or no benifit of the true cut.

Give those 7" & 9" grinders a lot of respect when You start using them. They have enough power to get away from ANYBODY if they snag or bind in a corner.