American Welding Society Forum
I'm not familiar with Flux core and have a few questions.
1. Is it ok to use the circling or oscillating technique like I do with GMAW if I keep the wire on the leading edge of the puddle the way I do with mig?
After reading some other posts that do mention this subject I need to add that this is not the big motions that some people do with the 6010, but smaller in the puddle motions that I use with 7018. This helps me with my travel speed and sometimes my bead placement.
2. When welding a groove on 1/2" MS plate, 60 degree included angle, horizontal position, how many passes or welds would you use to finish?
Not counting the root pass that I'm doing with another process I like to do one right over the root to burn it out and then I use two fillers for the first layer, three fillers for the second layer and then three for the face. So all together I use 9. If I went slower I could do it in less passes, but I'm afraid of traveling too slow and loosing some penetration or trapping some slag.
3. What do I need to set the gas flow or _?_ cfh?
Running at 24volts, about 300 imp on the wire speed, and 30 cfh, 75%-25%, 3/4" to 1" stickout, with an old Miller Shopmaster.
What size wire are you using? That seems like more beads than needed. But I'm not sure at the moment.
Have a Great Day, Brent
Brent has a valid question and the answer to that question will really help us give you an answer without guessing. But if I was guessing, it sounds like you are running 1/16" dia wire given the parameters in your original post. I have found that you can get away with 30 cfh of flow, but if any breeze is present it will uncover your gas coverage....40-45 cfh works best in our shop, just in case someone opens a door or something unexpectedly. To me the voltage looks just a bit on the low side for 1/16" with 1" ESO(3/4" works better). We run 26-30v, 250-280in/min WFS. I like to keep the whip/pause to a minimum when running fillet welds in 1F or 2F and only oscillate when it doesn't appear to be wetting in at the toes or the vertical leg isn't washing up and wetting in, or if the material is really thin and the whip and pause is to keep from burning through, other than that, just a straight smooth and steady stringer works well with our 1/16" Ultracore 71.
another question to add to Brent's:
What position are you welding in?
EDIT: I just noticed you mentioned 75/25...with argon in the mix you can get away with a bit less voltage than the 100% CO2 that we use.
Thanks for your help, all of you.
I'm sorry. I had posted this in another section and decided it was the wrong place for it. Some info got left out the second time around.
FCAW, E71A Dual Shield, .045 @ 300 ipm, 75%-25% @ 30cfh, 1/2" thick MS plate, 30° bevel each plate, 3/32" root & land, horizontal position. Using a 1/8" E6010 for the root & FCAW fill & cap.
Yes we figured the voltage & wire speed could vary from machine to machine. We've tried it lower. I like to weld a little slower than this wants me too, but not a good spray at lower volts with this machine. We get globular with larger increase in the size and quantity of spatter.
From what I've read on here I gather the wire movement in anything but a straight foward, steady motion is not a good idea.
Okay, the .045 is a little on the small side and yet I say that while using it more than anything else in my shop. Most of my projects with it are 1/4-1/2" but we do use it on heavy iron as well unless we have enough to do that it warrants increasing to the 1/16" wire (.065).
I think you would be safe to use a slight circular or just side to side (weave) motion to add to the width and size of your weld pool and thus increase your overall weld size. You may need to practice it a bit but it should work fine. It will slow down travel speed but could increase production since fewer passes would mean less cleaning time, stop time, etc.
What code are you working to? Normally a 6010 root is not preferred, nor allowed per D1.1. Use either 7018 or just the FCAW for your root.
The shop I am presently doing TPI inspections at uses 3/32" wire and runs it to the hot side. They diffinitely 'whip' this in order to get the root burned in. If you don't, the weld pool is large enough that you are not even close on your root penetration.
Have a Great Day, Brent
Again, thanks everybody.
Not working to any code or procedure. It’s a welding contest my high school students are going to be in. I have never used FCAW in the workplace and have never officially been taught how to use it. These have to look good and bend. I find that the slight oscillations or even a slight whip motion helps make my travel speed more consistent and I can better monitor my direction also. I have to admit that appearance has a little to do with it also. I get a little better consistent appearance because of the travel speed being steadier.
My students are having a little trouble with the first cover pass, (the one on the bottom). The bottom toe is rounding over a bit too much for my taste. Also the blending of the beads on the face is not as smooth as I'm used to with things like the 7018. I didn't know if this was normal for the FCAW or not. I'm telling them to travel faster, thus keeping the bead from building up too thick and rolling over on to the bead below.
Brand has a big influence with the sweet spot with FCAW
In horizontal grooves with .045 FCAW stringers are the rule... weaving and whipping are going to cause trouble because of how gravity works :)
With 75/25 that FCAW should spray....
If you see undercut,,,, decrease voltage
If you see spatter,,,, increase voltage
Whatever your voltage settings may be (they need to be withing the WPS) and then within the WPS the specific manufacturer of FCAW electrode will provide even narrower suggestions that will help make your adjustments minimal.
My experience is that the HIGH QUALITY FCAW fillers (Lincoln, ESAB, Hobart<) run smoothest at the upper ends of their ranges...
So I ofen run my .045 FCAW between 350-400 ipm... A thing unheard of even 10 years ago for vertical welds
hi im tying to find the welding procedures for a test, 3/8 plates with a backing strip, dual shield flux cord .045 so I can Practice before taking the test. please email me thank you, firstname.lastname@example.org
Go to the manufacturer's website to see what their recommended parameters are. Set the voltage, wire feed speed, and take note of the electrode extension (contact tip to work distance). Some list the optimum settings as well as the full ranges. Start with their recommended settings and "tweak" the WFS and voltage.
Insufficient electrode extension usually results in excessive amperage and excessive spatter.
Switching from one electrode to one manufactured by a different manufacturer may require an adjustment of the welding parameters. Again, start using the manufacturer's recommended settings.
240 to 260 WFS and 22-27 volts should get you in the ball park. But Al is correct in his comments that you can go ESAB or Bohler or whatever web site and you should get the information you need.
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