3/16 e8010-p1 pipeliner trouble

By Wook Date 03-28-2013 06:40

Im up on the north slope Alaska welding 12' true sch 80 .687 wall, and Im having a hell of a time getting this stuff to run a nice looking cap. Our caps have to be less then a 1/2" so it takes 2 passes. Were running classic 300d machines, and I've tried everything; third gear, fourth gear, turning the reostat down on the machine in fourth gear, various settings on the remote, rod angle, running a tight arc, spraying it on etc. It'll bug hole like crazy on the edge of the weld from about 2:00 to 4:00. It looks like its going on nice till I buff it off, then I have to repair a bunch of spots. I can lay on a slick cap with 5/32, but I hate to give up on 3/16. Ive havent done any real pipelining yet, but all I've been doing for about 3 years now is downhill all the way out. So Ive gotten pretty good at it. The last job I was on we were running 8010-g and i could lay on a slick cap no problem with 3/16, automatic, to the point I didn't even need to look at it. All the welders up here are having problems with it, but for the most part they specialize in tig. I do know one very good real deal pipeliner that was having the same problem with this rod. Does anybody out there have any experience with this lincoln pipeliner 8p+ e8010-p1 rod? Any tricks to get a nice cap with 3/16? Ive tried to get them to switch to 8010-g, but up here were all just a bunch of dumb pipe welders. Apparently they forgot the first rule of the oil field... The pipe welder is always right. :evil:

By gto_welder (*)

Date 03-28-2013 16:14

i run about 3 gear and 65-70 on the fine tune. with 3/16 you have to move move move!!! you should be able to go from 12 o'clock to abou 4 o'clock with just on rod

By tighand430 (***)

Date 03-28-2013 21:48

I had the same problems with it up there with Houston Contracting last year. Try running your fill just a hair low and then cap out.....It took 99% of the bug holes out of the cap pass.

By Wook Date 03-28-2013 06:43

Here is a pic of what I can do on a 12" .500 wall with 3/16 8010-g. Ill try to get a pic of the problem with the 3/16 8010-p1 tomorrow.

By Wook Date 03-28-2013 06:49

Well that didn't work.

By NWPAwelder (**)

Date 03-28-2013 23:56

Although, I haven't ran a lot of the pipeliners, I've been told by others who have that it will bughole if you get out of the bevel. leave it a little under flush and then try and cap it out.

By JTMcC

Date 03-29-2013 01:40

Are you sure it's 3/16"?
Pipeliner 8P+ comes in 5mm, just a little bigger than 3/16".

I love the 5mm 8P+, it crams the iron in and it caps like a stinkin dream come true. It carry's a lot of iron and it solidifies really fast.
If you get tooooo greedy on fill it'll bury slag but I take what the rod gives me and don't get all a greedy. It's lovely fine welding rod on DH pipe.

It doesn't bughole as bad as some batches of 70+ imo, stay off the parent metal as much as possible with 8P+ OR 70+ and some machine settings will give you a truck load of bug holes no matter what you do. Depending on the machine, changing range or changing arc force setting will help a lot on bug holes. Just my take.

J

By Rig Hand (***)

Date 03-29-2013 04:25

JT's right about getting out on the base metal, a lot of rods bug hole ya on that.

You might start checking the code numbers on your rod boxes. It is the numbers and letter that is stamped in ink (not printed on the label). Its not as important that you know how to read the code, its just important that, if you think you have a junk box to keep track of its code and see how the next box does.