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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / I am new at welding and am having trouble seeing the
- - By mgee Date 02-10-2015 23:15
Weld joint. I would like to know the best ad hood out there for tig and stick. Thanks for replies. I can spend about 450.00 for a good hood
Parent - - By Blaster (***) Date 02-10-2015 23:29
IMO the best way to see the joint, and more importantly the puddle, puddle edges, and slag follow is to use a hood with a green glass lens of an appropriate shade.  And wearing magnifying safety glasses if they are needed.  This costs about $25 for both.  You may want to try this first?
Parent - - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 12:54
This is embarassing having to ask, but, What does IMO mean?
Parent - By Blaster (***) Date 02-12-2015 14:09
In My Opinion
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 02-11-2015 02:53 Edited 02-11-2015 14:55
mgee,

WELCOME TO THE AWS WELDING FORUM!!

Blaster makes some good points.  As a beginner, don't start out spending a whole bunch of money on an auto hood until you can get a chance to try out several and find one you really like.

Also, as a beginner, get comfortable with a regular hood to find your viewing combo.  For example, as I have gotten older, almost 59, I use a low power cheater to improve view clarity of the weld pool.  I have also found this helped my children, when they were in their late teens and learning to weld in our family business.  And, if you wear glasses, get a good pair of prescription safety glasses.  I have mine in the same progressive lens prescription as my regular glasses. 

Next, make sure you don't try to use too dark of a lens.  Many people grab a 12 or so to cover themselves.  'If a 10 is good a 12 must be better right?'  NO.  There needs to be care.  It is dependent upon the process and several variables.  Even processes that 'recommend' a 12, can often be learned better with a 10 while you learn what you are watching and the weld arc itself can be shaded with the gun, nozzle, etc of the process in use.  Having said that, I strongly caution against going too light.  Make sure your lens is dark enough that your eyes are not strained or damaged. 

Once you have figured out how to get a good view of the welding process then you can spend the money on an auto darkening hood and add the needed accessories to get your view along with the safety, comfort, and ease of this technology. 

While I'm editing this for a couple of words that were spelled to the wrong application, Paladin makes an excellent point about keeping the lens clear.  Change it much more often than many people think.  You can only wipe that smoke off a couple of times and the lens is still clouded and now scratched up as well.  Surprising how much a new clear lens will help. And remember, there are two main compositions for clear lenses.  Use the plastic lens on the outside and poly-carbonate for the inside.  You can use plastic on both but the poly-carbonate is less brittle and will not shatter like the plastic.  But the plastic resists heat damage and smoke hazing better than the poly-carbonate so is a better lens for the outside. 

Someone once told me OSHA required the poly's on the inside because of the shattering/safety issue.  I have never been able to verify that but I could see where some companies have items like that in their safety manual.  

He Is In Control, Have a Great Day,  Brent

PS: back again, don't forget to remove the thin plastic protective cover on many lenses.  I was testing a welder for qualification/certification once not long ago and the company had supplied him with a brand new hood and the company owner had installed the clear lenses.  He left the clear plastic film on the outer one.  The guy kept complaining and wishing he had brought his own hood.  Finally I grabbed it and put it on and struck an arc.  Sorry, I could not help but start laughing.  He was furious, not with me, with his brother in law boss.  We charged the company for extra time but let the guy start his weld test all over again.  What an improvement from the minute he then struck an arc.  :lol:
Parent - - By gndchuck (**) Date 02-11-2015 22:32
If you have blue eyes you might want to go a shade darker or wear tinted safety glasses under your hood.  I'm blue eyed, and most blue eyed people are a touch more sensitive to bright light.  Other than that very good info.
Parent - - By Sourdough (****) Date 02-15-2015 05:20
I was always under the impression that light colored eyes were less susceptible to arc burn. A few of my buddies have a lighter shade in their hoods. They always told me it was because they had blue or green eyes....?
Parent - By pipewelder_1999 (****) Date 02-11-2015 03:49
I think for consistent clarity no matter where you look through the lens or angle, you can't beat a regular glass lens.

Bang for the buck, that can't be beat. I have used some autohoods and still do but when I really need to see the "guts" of it.

I break out the huntsman 490P with a shade 10 lens.

Autohoods that I have liked for the money are the 39.99 harbor freight blue flame model, the Miller Elite 9400 Titanium, and Hornel Speedglass Air Supplied Hoods. I have used hoods in between those from Arc One, Jackson, and Hobart. As with vehicles, there are tremendous differences between manufacturers and models.

As with many things welding, much is opinion and based upon individual experience. Many things you just gotta check out on your own.
- By Paladin (***) Date 02-11-2015 13:27
New welders sometimes have a tendency to hover over the weld in the weld plume. Not only are they breathing the fumes, but the smoke and splatter will foul the clear lens. Obviously more of a problem with SMAW (stick) and GMAW.

So be aware and change the clear lens when dirty. This can make a big difference in view. I've seen some real cloudy "clear" lens.

I think part of the skill of a welder is learning to position themselves so they can see the weld, stay out of the plume and sparks, and hold  the gun (stinger, or torch) at the proper angle. I've seen new welders positioned right above the  weld with the gun held at an extreme angle so he could see the weld. The hands and gun have priority over angle of attack. The head and body should find a good place to stay out of the way.

Floyd
- - By 803056 (*****) Date 02-11-2015 17:24
I notice a major improvement when I open my eyes.

Sorry, I couldn't resist the urge.

Al
Parent - - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 02:19
Both of em?
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 02-12-2015 02:29
:lol: :lol:

And probably at the same time  :lol:  But it is hard to tell with Al.

BB
Parent - - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 11:41
Thanks guys... So, I'll start with a #10 lense, keep it clean and get a hood that will fit over my reading glasses. 
Last question, totally different. I am making a new torch tote out of 3003 h14 aluminum diamond plate and plan to hat the oxyacetyl weld it. I am welding .063 with 1100 rod.
I am told that although my welds will not be as neat as a tig, the weld will be more pliable and less brittle.  I am also told that I have to be extremely clean. I cut all my pieces with a grinder cutting blade. I cleaned the edges with a grinder blade and a new wire wheel brush. Is there anyrthing else I should do? I'm a Steamfitter and have never worked with aluminum.
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 02-12-2015 12:44 Edited 02-12-2015 12:48
Well, especially if the cut off wheel and other wheel you used for cleaning were not 'aluminum' wheels, and even if they were, you need to clean the cut edges and a distance on the surface to rid oxides.  Acetone has always been a favorite of mine but some recent posts here describe why it is not the best.  But use a Stainless Steel Brush to do your cleaning. 

Let me see if I can get you the link to the other posts real quick.

Try this:   http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/education/knowledge/techknowledge/Aluminum-Storage-and-Preparations-for-Welding.cfm

alcohol and others as noted in the link here.  Also, go to the top here and press the 'Search' function button.  Then, in the first box, just type 'Acetone'.  It will take you to several conversations about cleaning Alum prior to welding.  You can learn alot without even going to those threads but when you read one that you want to see what others in the thread had to say just click on it.  It will take you there. 

He Is In Control, Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 12:52
Cool..this is awesome. Thanks guys
Parent - By Blaster (***) Date 02-12-2015 14:13
An aluminum file is my favorite method of aluminum edge clean up.
Parent - - By Lawrence (*****) Date 02-12-2015 16:47
Safety Glasses under the hood !

You can get safety glasses with "reader" bifocals of any magnification OR you can get magnifying lenses that fit right into the hood and are inexpensive.

If you plan to gas weld your box... GET SOME SCRAP FIRST..  Oxy-fuel welding of aluminum is tricky business when you first start at it.  The edges will fall away when overheated, so it takes a "touch" that only comes with a bit of practice.
Parent - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 23:44
Yep. I saved all my scrap from the cutout and will test on that. If I don't do well, I'll get some more until I am satisfied I can put a good bead down. Can I use 1100 rod to braze, or do I need a softer rod?  I'm wondering if my welds aren't as pretty as I want them, if I can braze in spots and smooth it down
Parent - - By mgee Date 02-12-2015 23:46
Yep. My reading glasses are safety rated.
Parent - - By welderbrent (*****) Date 02-13-2015 00:50 Edited 02-13-2015 00:52
I get all my glasses done in safety lenses, BUT only my actual shop safety glasses have the neat little mark on them that a safety man or OSHA are going to look for.  Those cost more. 

And Lawrence, as well as mgee, I use BOTH my safety glasses and the magnifier.  My safety glasses compensate for my astigmatism and the magnifying lenses give me better viewing to compensate for my old age.  :lol: :roll:

When working at home I can use either one but prefer to use the safety glasses and keep my everyday readers as clean as possible.

He Is In Control, Have a Great Day,  Brent
Parent - - By mgee Date 02-13-2015 02:47
How strong a mag glass do you reccomend?
Parent - By welderbrent (*****) Date 02-13-2015 03:14
If I remember correctly I use a 1.0.  You don't need much unless you are really visually challenged and don't want to have your glasses on to work.  Or want only regular safety glasses under the hood.  But then, I use that because of some of the small parts that I GTAW weld on.  Need to make sure they are sealed.  They are parts under pressure. 

Brent
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 02-13-2015 03:27
Hello mgee, if you have a reading glass strength that you use for reading you can get a magnifier in the same strength. Otherwise, take the lens and hold it approximately the same distance away from your eyes as it would be located relative to your eyes with your hood down and look at something that is roughly the same distance away as the welding you would generally do. Hope that helps. Good luck and best regards, Allan
Parent - - By Cumminsguy71 (*****) Date 02-13-2015 14:52
I've owned the digital elite by Miller, I have a Speedglas, and the hood I use everyday is my simple, $150 Lincoln auto hood. Has the knob on the outside, turn it off quick to grind, turn it on quick to weld. Battery has lasted a year so far. Gets tossed into ditches, in the back of the truck and bangs around load ropes. As far as more sensors I've had the same issues with the high end hoods with four sensors that I have with the cheaper brand with two sensors. Tight confined areas and you can block the light where the lens will flash, parked on the side of the road with yellow flasher lights going on the top of the truck and your hood flashes on and off. I don't have a problem with spending $400 on a hood but can't justify the cost as the actual benefits that I have seen are not worth the additional Ben Franklin's. Just my two cents worth...

Shawn
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 02-16-2015 19:26
Before you spend money on a high quality optic....just get a selection of glass filters in shade 9-10-11  and try them.  Filter shade is a very personal thing and varies in preference from person to person.  Green (dark) filters are fine, the gold filters are more for heat reflection to keep the lens from being so hot next to your face after lots of welding.  However some gold plated/colored filters offer a different color spectrum with which to view the arc/puddle and some folks vastly prefer this.  Point being since your new to welding you should learn what to look at and train your muscles to react according to what you see rather then worry with the best "HD" view of it.  The slight differences in clarity will not improve your skills much with lots of experience at hand....therefore it is doubt full they will make one wit of difference now.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / I am new at welding and am having trouble seeing the

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