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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / BUILDING/WELDING A BOXING RING -- HELP!!
- - By BigMike Date 05-10-2005 21:18
Hi fellas. I am so glad to have found this forum, and I am so much looking forward to the responses. I have a feeling that y'all are going to be a big help to me. I should mention right out of the gate that I am not a welder, nor do I know a thing about welding, so please pardon my ignorance on this stuff. I feel like we are doing an episode of Monster Garage with this project. Here we go.

But first, a link to a photo of the sort of boxing ring I aim to build, so you all can get an idea on what I'm trying to do here.

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000BWCX0.01-A2QUBZRFQD7A2Q._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

I've owned, set-up, etc. boxing rings in the past -- real ones, makeshift ones, expensive ones, cheap ones, etc. -- and have studied the topic and the mechanics of it at length. In your responses, keep in mind I'm not the handyman type, and not very mechanically inclined, but I have common sense going for me, and kind of know the physics of what I need.

Here's the deal. I could buy a whole boxing ring or buy the individual parts and put it together, but I want to create my own, due to what I need for my particular situation, so that's what makes it get tricky.

Specifically, what I want is a boxing ring that can be set-up and taken-down fairly easily, and it should be lightweight, yet sturdy. Any regular ring consists of long parts, like beams, up to 16 feet or so long, and I don't want that. We are going to be touring the circuit, traveling around a lot, and I want something that consists of small parts, that could fit inside a pickup truck, or possibly even a car.

And that sounds kind of crazy, but keep in mind what would probably be done is that I would have all the regular parts of the ring always traveling with me by car (the canvas, the turnbuckles and pads, the ropes, the canvas, etc.). And then as far as the frame and flooring goes, that would most likely be wood, which I'd discard or give away after each show, and get new wood in the next town. For instance, say we do a show in Texas, and then move on to Mississippi later that week. I'd take all that permanent stuff with me, which is always the same, and just leave the wood in Texas. It would be stored and used for the next show if there is one, or if there isn't one, then I'd give it away or whatever. All the other stuff would come with me for the next show, and I'd get new wood there, and build another frame and flooring.

This way, our little crew could keep moving along from town to town, hotel to hotel, club to club, and keep that permanent stuff stored safely at the hotel. The last thing you want is to be doing road shows, and have to be renting and driving U-Hauls all around, or have the crew at a strip club, and the ring gets stolen from the back of the pickup truck in the parking lot. This way, with my plan, we can travel at our leisure, go wherever, and not have much baggage. And every stop on the tour, when we'd hit a new town, we'd hit the local Home Depot or Lowe's and get new wood for a frame.

So basically the way a boxing ring works is like this. You'd have 4 corner posts, usually made of steel, but it doesn't necessarily have to be steel, and there are all different ways that frames could attach to the corner posts, but in this case -- unless someone comes up with something better -- I think the way I want to do it is to weld a little bit of a steel channel onto the steel post at the bottom. We call them the cornerposts, but basically what it is is steel square tubing. Picture one of those standing upright, and at the bottom of it, there would be a little piece of "channel" going one way, and one going the other way. Each of the four cornerposts would be like that, facing each other, and the channels would be maybe just 6 inches long. In there, I would place a 2x4 or maybe a 4x4 to connect everythign all around.

You see what I'm saying? Basically those corner posts would be upright at the four corners, and to connect them would be a frame of wood 2x4 or 4x4 that make a perfect square, and this frame would sit inside the channels, you know, like a little bracket. Through these little channel/brackets I guess we'd drill a hole, and put a bolt through there to keep the wood firmly in place. That would make a frame, and from there, we'd just have to fill in the frame with more wooden beams, and then cover it with plywood for flooring. I should mention that this will just get us a few inches off the ground, but that's okay, especially considering these would be small club shows, often times in places with low ceilings. So the corner posts would be about 5 feet high, and standing in the ring, you'd be just a few inches off the ground. The padding on the flooring, etc. would add another inch, but it's a good enough platform like that.

Here are my questions to you guys, the esteemed members of the forum that have a wealth of knowledge when it comes to welding, unlike myself...

1) Welding little channel type brackets to the corner posts (square tubing) should be no problem right? And you can see that??

2) Also welded onto these corner posts (square tubing) would be a flat "foot" or whatever you call it to keep it stable. And also welded on would be three steel "circles" (don't know what to call them), which is where the turnbuckles would go into since we'd connect the ropes after that. Anyone foresee any problems there?

3) Any help on what a local welder would charge me, so I don't get ripped off, would be appreciated. But it seems easy enough, right? Also, I need help on terminology, so please correct me where needed.

4) For what I need, the way I described the touring, etc., is this the best possible way to do it, or anyone see a better/easier way?? Basically, I can afford to spend a few hundred bucks per show on new supplies or stuff related to the ring. Feel free to come up with totally new ideas and spins on this, and feel free to talk amongst yourselves regarding other people's ideas.

5) Really let me have it, if I am wrong about anything. Better to be wrong now and be told, than to find out later, the hard way. is this the best way to do it to suit my needs -- the sort of disposable way? Again, if I did it the conventional way, I'd be lugging around heavy 16 foot beams and frame pieces. This way, we wouldn't need a truck. I should mention that the ring would have to be somewhere between 12 to 16 foot squared. With my way, the longest permanent pieces would be the 5 foot (maybe even shorter) steel tubing corner posts, and sometimes I might even literally "mail" stuff like that to the next town, or get 'em to fit in the car. And like I said, all the wood would either be disposable or left in that town for the next show the next month.

6. Does this thing seem sturdy enough? Remember, the ropes are constantly applying pressure pulling in on the cornerposts, harnessed on with the turnbuckles.

I'm sure I'll come up with more stuff, and post more in response to your responses, but please help, and I appreciate it greatly, so thanks so much in advance. Below, I will put a link to a photo of the kind of boxing ring I'm talking about so you can visualize this whole thing. Thanks again. I'm looking forward to the responses.

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000BWCX0.01-A2QUBZRFQD7A2Q._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
Parent - - By leon phelps (**) Date 05-15-2005 04:41
Mike,

You are missing something here. The canvas floor of a boxing ring is supporting itself by the tension of the canvas. There are sometimes wooden joists that are a couple of inches below the canvas for additional support, but steel would be way wrong for this. There has to be some give when people fall or there would be some really bad injuries from falling. That is why wrestlers too fight in rings.

The posts just need eye hooks welded to them for the turnbuckles. You could make an exterior metal frame that bolts together, but unless you use 8' steel and figure out how to bolt this together with specialized brackets, you are chasing your tail.

Good luck.
Parent - By BigMike Date 05-21-2005 17:18
Leon, I guess since we're talking about welding here, I just didn't get too much into the talk of wood, but yes, there would be a wooden joist set-up, with the plywood flooring on top, with the padding and canvas on top of that. Actually, the majority of rings are steel beam supported, but the heavy duty closed-cell foam padding absorbs all the shock, so no one gets injured. Wrestling rings, hell, they have a big bouncy spring or several springs. An exterior fram made of bolt-together smaller pieces, would be nice, but I'd still want them shorter than 8 feet for travel purposes, so I wanted to see how well everyone things it would work with 2x4 wood bolted into the corner posts on the ground to form the frame. Thanks for the input.
Parent - - By billvanderhoof (****) Date 05-15-2005 06:18
Why not design something that will mount on a trailer frame, fold up for transport and open up for use. Look at carnival rides to see how far this can be taken. You wouldn't have to throw anything away, setup and teardown would be easy. The trailer would remain under the ring while the ring was in use. The ring would be stabilized by jacks while in use.
Bill
Parent - By Lawrence (*****) Date 05-16-2005 15:42


Right on Bill! Best idea.


Why not think about aluminum rather than steel?
Parent - - By BigMike Date 05-21-2005 17:20
Bill, I like the idea, and already thought of it, especially after seeing something similar on Monster Garage, but I'm afraid this kind of thing -- a flatbed trailer that folds out to form a ring -- would be way beyond me, and way beyond anyone I could find to weld it, and pretty expensive. Although, it would be such a joy to have it all just fold out, with no setting up to be done. Thanks.
Parent - By thumbsmasher Date 05-26-2005 04:39
Also, you mentioned that your shows are indoors, so getting a trailer inside might be tough in some situations. The disposable floor sounds like quite a waste, not to mention having to take the time to rebuild it at every stop. Since you'd need a truck to go buy the wood anyway, why not build a floor in sections out of 2x4s and plywood -- like the way concrete forms used to be built. A 16'x16' floor would fit in the back of a full size pickup in a stack less than 3' high.

What might work even better would be a set of SIPs panels. If you don't know what they are, do a search. R-control is one manufacturer that I know of off hand. They have grooves in them for splines, so they would self align. And they are pretty light weight. You'd have to get a carpenter/builder to help you design the whole thing in a way that's easy to build and take down. Really the welding is the least of the issues. That part is pretty simple.
Parent - By LIZARD3295 Date 06-03-2005 18:46
Mike,Ihave built 3 rings and am making another.First use angle iron on the corner post.I used 3 inch and cut it 2 inches shorter than the wood.Drill 3 holes and bolt the wood instead of screwing then wood can be reused.If you want 20 by 20 and only want 5 foot sections Use half inch plate then weld 2 or 3 inch tube on top.Weld 2 peices of angle on top.These will be the legs.The top 2 peices of angle set at the width of the wood 1.5 or 2 inches.Set these legs Everywhere 2 wood peices connect.Drill through the angle and wood.Bolt then once again wood can be reused.I have been fighting for 10 years and welding for 5.I have had alot of bad experiment with rings, but this way seems to work.Feel free to email me dlucas@rochester.rr.com if I can be of help.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / BUILDING/WELDING A BOXING RING -- HELP!!

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