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Up Topic Welding Industry / Technical Discussions / I've got cracks in my welds.
- - By k7gvi Date 01-27-2006 21:50
I'm welding some 10" x .5" steel pipe, and the welds are all getting cracks along the length.

I'm using the DHC2000 oxy-acetylene torch. I'm having no problems getting the steel hot enough, but the welds crack.

Can anyone tell me what to do to relieve this problem? (aside from getting a different welder)

Josh
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 01-28-2006 01:26
Hello Josh, you haven't given a lot of information to work with here concerning your problem. If I am understanding you correctly you are trying to oxy-acetylene weld some 10" diameter, 1/2" wall pipe. First thing, if the diameter of this is indeed 10" exactly then it is not pipe it is likely some form of seamless tubing. This being the case the tube could have some other formulation besides just that of a mild steel type of composition, thus if your filler rod doesn't match the base material you could see this cracking. You also have not mentioned the type of filler rod that you are trying to use to do the welding on this, typically gas welding is commonly done with RG 45 filler metal in various diameters. When you mention the cracks that you are getting, are they right down the middle of the weld or are they along the edges? Usually if they are right down the middle of the weld there is some sort of incompatability with the filler material that is being used or there is a preheat, postheat problem due to the material composition. If the "cracks" are along the sides of the weld then you need to be sure that they are indeed cracks and not cold lap that is being caused from not bringing the metal up to the proper welding temperature. I reread your post and you did not mention using filler metal, if you are trying to fuse the metal without filler rod that could have something to do with the cracking that you are seeing. The thickness of the pipe being 1/2" requires a pretty substantial weld puddle diameter to properly heat the full thickness of the material, it is somewhat unlikely that you could truly get this hot enough to make a sound weld in any reasonable amount of time with this welding process and if you are not using a filler metal. I would be interested to hear a few more particulars regarding this welding problem and I'm sure there will be plenty of other folks who will have some ideas for you. Good luck, aevald
Parent - By - Date 01-28-2006 14:09
aevald,
Personally, I think you covered it pretty well. The post left a lot of unanswered questions that need to be considered. Another thing he did not mention when using the OA process is what joint configuration he is using. This will make a big difference, too. After all, OA welding, especially on pipe (or tube) is not the easiest process when expecting a good sound weld. Not imposible, but not the easiest.
Parent - - By k7gvi Date 01-28-2006 20:58
Ok, Here's a little bit more info.

The pipe is 7 5/8" ID, 8 5/8" OD.

I can fuse weld the pipe together with
my torch, but it would be pretty near impossible to get 100% penetration in 1/2" steel. So I cut a beveled edge at 45 degrees on both pieces of pipe. The puddle that I get with the torch is about 3/4" around, and definitely penetrates.

The "filler" that I'm using is standard 1/8" cold rolled steel from the local steel shop.

The cracks do run right down the center, not along the edge.

I think that answers all the questions so far.

After my first post I went out and did a fair bit more preheating and a little bit of post heating and the weld that I got didn't get a crack, so that may have been the problem.

Thanks for all your help,
Josh
Parent - - By Lawrence (*****) Date 01-28-2006 21:12


Sounds like a filler problem, even though the preheat helped.

Regular cold rolled steel wire does not have the deoxidizers and alloying that specifically formulated welding filler wire has.

I think your local weld supply shop will have some 1/8 ER70S-2 that would be more suitable for your job.

My old garage workbench is gas welded 1/2 inch boiler plate with pipe legs.
Parent - - By texredneck (**) Date 01-29-2006 00:27
Im curious about the recomendation of ER70S-2 as this is an electric process rod vs RG-45 lets say which is a gas process rod. I agree that the ER70S-2 wire would have the deoxidizers, and with tig this would be necessary, but IMHO, I see no purpose in specifying an electric process rod when a gas process rod will do the job properly. Am I wrong in this? If I am please direct.
CHRIS
Parent - By Lawrence (*****) Date 01-29-2006 00:47
I think your right Tex, good spot.

My mistake, just comming from a TIG MIG environment I have had success gas welding with tig wire or just straight off the mig roll. The S-2 is just pretty commonly available and up to the task. But when it comes to advice, why not advise the best, as you correctly do.
Parent - - By QCCWI (***) Date 01-29-2006 02:57
OK for the slow people or just me what is IMHO?
Parent - By texredneck (**) Date 01-29-2006 04:38
IMHO in my humble opinion....
Well yeah I agree, I know that the ER70S-2 would work, I just was looking for clarificaiton...I think to give credit where its due though, you had the right idea, and I dint want to take away from that.
CHRIS
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 01-29-2006 07:35
Hello All, just a little bit more information for those who maybe haven't used the RG45 or the ER70-S2. Generally when you make a weld on mild steel with the oxy-fuel process using the RG45 rod you will have a nice shiny clear puddle with very little sparking when the appropropriate size torch tip and settings are used. If you only change the rod in this scenario and substitute the ER70-S2 for the filler you will see a crusty film floating on the puddle which has a dull orange appearance, you may experience some popping of the torch also and instead of having a convex bead when you are done it can be somewhat flat and show silica deposits along the edges of the weld. You may also experience an excessive amount of sparking as the weld is progressing. In my experience the weld will indeed hold and serve it's purpose to some degree, however, I don't believe that it is as good as the one made using the RG45 filler. On the other hand, when you are using the TIG or GTAW process with appropriately prepared mild steel and the ER70-S2 filler wire you will similarly have a nice clear puddle without any signs of contaminants in the weld puddle and the finished weld when properly done will be completely shiny and have a convex bead shape. If you substitute RG45 filler in this scenario my experience has been that you will see what I call swiss cheese in the finished bead, it may still be of the correct size and have a convex appearance, however, there will be holes in the surface of the bead. The differences in the purpose and makeup of these two rods do not make them interchangeable for use in either of the two welding processes. One final note the original poster in this thread said that he was using 1/8" cold rolled wire for a filler metal, as one of the other posters stated, the makeup of this wire will not allow it to be used with complete success for a filler wire, similarly coat hangers, baling wire, tie wire, and any other sort of metallic wire will not necessarily qualify it for a good filler material for oxy-fuel welding. I know that probably half of the world has repaired things using coat hangers and the like and I'm not saying that it cannot be done, the reality is that it isn't correct either. My two cents. aevald
Parent - By texredneck (**) Date 01-30-2006 04:50
Totally agree with ya on this. I for one have used the coat hanger..but in a pinch...I wouldnt do it on something say a trailer hitch or even on a hinge for a gate for that matter. But if I had to, on that gate hinge I might consider it if I had no alterative for the weekend and I would make my darndest to redo it in the coming week. Course then again I dont use oxy fuel for much of anything weldoing wise. I use smaw and I know a guy who swears hes welded stuff with a coat hanger with smaw, I wouldnt. Not to say you cant, but its not proper and most likely will lead to failures.

Just my two cents
CHRIS
Parent - - By k7gvi Date 01-30-2006 16:31
Quote:
"Generally when you make a weld on mild steel with the oxy-fuel process using the RG45 rod you will have a nice shiny clear puddle . . ."

But I do get that nice shiny puddle, even when welding with the cold rolled steel.

Quote:
"you will see a crusty film floating on the puddle which has a dull orange appearance . . ."

The only time that I see this is when there isn't quite enough heat in the weld. A little more heating and I get the nice shiny clear puddle.

Quote:
"One final note the original poster in this thread said that he was using 1/8" cold rolled wire for a filler metal, as one of the other posters stated, the makeup of this wire will not allow it to be used with complete success for a filler wire . . ."

Why? I don't want to get into the "my torch is a miracle torch" scenario, but when I'm up to full heat, the flame that is touching the steel is the flux. In other words, there is no oxidizing steel in the weld. There may be and probably is on top of the weld once the flame leaves that area, but I can physically see an "oxide free zone" about 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter.

Please do not assume that the torch I'm using is a normal OA torch. It isn't. If you want to look and see how it works, here's a link: http://www.cut-like-plasma.com

As far as sparking in the weld. There is virtually none.

If I wanted to, I could do the complete weld in 2 passes. That means about a 1/4 inch weld each pass. How? Well, my welding pressures are 4 psi for both gasses. So it's hard to blow out the weld. So, here's my questions, and I'm sure that this will spark some conversation:

1. IF you know that your weld penetrates, or that your puddle is liquid for a full 1/4 inch can you put a 1/4 of filler on every pass?

2. IF I can see that everywhere that the filler flows into is liquid BEFORE I add filler, why would it be best to NOT do so?

Thank you again for your time, I really do appreciate the responses.
Josh
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 01-30-2006 18:38
Hello Josh, in any welding process there is a certain amount of oxidation that occurs (this could be argued when it comes to certain high-end type welding processes), it will be either minimal or excessive depending on the circumstances and the process. Most metals also have alloying elements that are added to them when they are manufactured to give them certain characteristics, in some cases during the welding of these materials those elements are burned out or diluted in the process of making a puddle to weld them together. Proper fillers have additives that will allow for this loss or dilution so that the finished weld will retain the same basic properties of the parent material. When you are looking at the statements that I put in my previous post they are relative to specific conditions which occur with specific types of filler rod. Whether I was using the type of torch that you are using would not change these characteristics or results. A torch does not introduce a flux into the weld unless it is equipped with a supplemental flux injection system. The reason that welds can generally be made with oxy-fuel, is that the fuel gas combines with the oxygen and a part of the atmosphere surrounding the weld area as the weld is progressing and this keeps the surrounding atmosphere from contaminating the weld pool. You said that you had a clear weld pool as you were using the 1/8" cold rolled wire as a filler and that you didn't have any sparking, I certainly don't doubt that, but as I wrote at the beginning of this post you may not have the same strength and other characteristics in your finished weld as is present in the parent metal of the pipe. Hope this helps to explain my statements better. Regards, aevald
Parent - - By k7gvi Date 01-30-2006 21:14
Hello aevald, Thanks for the reply. I can't argue with you there. The knowledge that I have from welding comes only from my personal experience. Which isn't a whole lot. I've only used an arc welder and the OA welder that I now have. So I'm a little bit at a loss as to what needs to be done here. I don't know what the exact properties of the pipe that I'm trying to weld are. . . Therefore I can't know what filler to use. . . The only thing that I know to do is preheat and postheat.

Josh
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 01-30-2006 22:49
Hello Josh, I would suggest that you take a trip to a welding supplier in your area and see about purchasing some 1/8" RG45 gas welding filler rod, use this for the welding that you are doing on the pipe, it should do the job for you on this. Best of luck, aevald
Parent - By k7gvi Date 01-31-2006 05:23
Thanks aevald, Done did it today, will try it tommorrow.

Just to clarify: the RG45 has the extra "stuff", needed to take the place of what gets "burned out" during the welding process? And that's why it's better to use it than say, mild steel or cold rolled steel?

Thanks again,
Josh
Parent - - By JTMcC (***) Date 01-30-2006 22:53
aevald says "if the diameter of this is indeed 10" exactly then it is not pipe".


It certainly can be. API pipe is actual outside dimension. Anyone within range of the oil patch (and that's quite a bit of the country) will commonly run into API pipe. And it's used in just about every natural gas distribution system in the country, so really it's everywhere to some extent.

JTMcC.
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 01-30-2006 23:18
I stand corrected JTMcC, please accept my appology for the mis-information. This really is why the forum is a valuable tool for just about anyone. I have almost no association to the gas piping industry and thus I am ignorant to those facts concerning pipe sizing. I thank you for the valuable information in this case. Best regards, aevald
Up Topic Welding Industry / Technical Discussions / I've got cracks in my welds.

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