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Up Topic Welders and Inspectors / Education & Training / root pass on single v-groove butt joint in flat position
- - By bphinson (*) Date 02-10-2007 19:13
Hey fellas hope everyone is doing well! I would like some advice from all the "salty's" out there on the forum. As an entry-level welder, I'm working on trying to master the 6010 root pass of the single v-groove butt joint in 1G. I'm getting excellent penetration and bead width along the first three-quarters length of the joint (joint length total about 5"). Problem occurs when I switch to a new rod to finish out the remaining one-quarter on the root pass. I'm getting the penetration, but the bead is a little too narrow. In total, I'm using a rod's worth and a half to run the entire length of the joint/root pass. How does one "bridge the gap" between stopping and restarting with a new rod. Does this just come with experience? Using 3/8" carbon steel plate, 1/8" 6010 rod, 30 deg. bevel, 1/16" land, 1/8" gap between the two plates. THANK FOR ALL THE HELP AND ADVICE!
Parent - - By shooterfpga (*) Date 02-11-2007 18:28
for your start and stops not being tied in, yes it comes with experiance. try to start your arc strike and puddle a little below your last stop to tie it in, but watch your puddle. try bumping your amps up or going a lot slower to let your puddle fill in for that last root pass.
Parent - By bphinson (*) Date 02-13-2007 20:54
Thanks dude...I will try that technique out this evening in welding class! PEACE!
Parent - By bozaktwo1 (***) Date 02-17-2007 13:44
1/8" rod for a 1/8" root?  How are you grounded?  If you're in a jig and can move the ground, do so and place the clamp so your direction of travel is toward it.  And turn the power up, but watch your interpass temps.  Personally, I would have used 3/32" for that root opening.
Parent - - By Aspirate (**) Date 03-16-2007 03:30
Are you sure you have to use a 1/16" land?
3/32" to 1/8" land is more common if you're running a 1/8" gap.

On your stop, check with your instructor on the use of a grinder to grind your stop (knife-edge your last keyhole). 
The formation of your new keyhole and tie-in is much easier if you grind down your stop.  Some instructors only allow grinding stops after a certain stage.
If a grinder is not allowed, then slower travel before that area, and listening for burn thru can work.  In the field, if I don't hear it go thru, I usually don't continue.
Parent - - By chris2698 (****) Date 03-20-2007 04:14
what I like to do is a nickel thickness landing 1/8th gap and when you do the root if you stop you need to grind your starts and stops so they look like a boat ramp going into the water so when you start up again it will tie in nicely if you don't grind your starts and stops you will have little holes or pits in the root and they will probally make you fail a bend test. always remember this chip and brush away your slag when you finish burning a rod you want your weld so clean you can eat off of it. I have taught people in my welding class and they seem to never want to clean there slag off and they wonder why there plates break in the bend tester. I'm very an*l about cleaning my welds after welding but i don't have problems with the plates breaking.

Are you welding V-Groove for a high school competition or something? There are HS kids who come in at night time to learn and prepare for there own little welding competitions.

Chris
Parent - - By bphinson (*) Date 03-29-2007 03:18
Thanks to chris and the others for their sound advice. I'm not preparing for competition. I'm preparing for the structural certification test that I will take at the end of this semester at my local aws recognized test facility. I'm very excited and am wondering if anyone call tell me what to expect, what the cwi's do, etc. For instance-what is the length of the joint i will be welding, are stops/starts allowed, grinding the stops/starts? The little "formalities" you could say. Take care and thanks-Brad
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 03-29-2007 05:29
Too much gap, I would go with about a 1/16 gap and bury the rod down in the root.
Parent - - By chris2698 (****) Date 03-29-2007 21:20
It's all what you like i use to like a 3/32 gap but find I weld it better with a 1/8th gap. There is a few guys in the class who don't grind there starts and stops but everyone I've talked to who did x-ray testing on pipe all said they grind there's and I think it just looks better everything is all tied in nicely. I don't want to feel unsure about things I want to be right on. Who knows when I get in the field I may find they may not let me grind on certain things so who knows.

Chris
Parent - - By bozaktwo1 (***) Date 03-30-2007 00:04
If you're submitting a test to radiography, then you should grind, if it's allowed.  I went to school in '87, long time ago, but I still remember the reason for almost every single failure I saw in my time there (one was my own), and that was porosity in the starts and stops.  The only way to find it is by grinding.
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 03-30-2007 03:26 Edited 03-30-2007 03:29
If it's taking you 2 rods to go 5 inches, you've got way too much gap. Downhill pipeline welders would freak out if you tried to give them a 1/8 gap. Seriously.

You may like doing it that way now because that's what you're used to, but in the real world that ain't gonna fly. It's all about how fast you can make a weld. You want the smallest gap you can get a good bead in. The smaller gap you use, the faster you can finish, because the bigger gap you use, the more metal you have to put in to fill that bevel up.

Personally, I hate it when fitters give me a big gap, and when they put a big bevel on top of it, I tend to lose my cool. I'll tell them nicely once, but after that anything can happen. Don't try to give me more than a 30 degree bevel, I don't like it. You will learn that you have to put up with a bunch of people that really have no idea what they are doing.

I went on a job in Alaska once, the vaunted BP experimental GTL plant in Nikiski. They were gonna  X Ray the first 2 welds, a common practice and not that big a problem for an experienced pipe welder. But, they had already cut all the pipe and allowed for a 3/16 gap on 3" schedule 40, TIG  root and weldout. I wasn't a happy camper, and I let the foreman know, but he was a fitter and didn't have a whole lot of sympathy. ''We already cut that pipe, and that's what we're gonna use, whether you like it or not". Well, we had words, and he got mad, but he kinda saw my point of view. I didn't want to have to make my first 2 X Rays using a gap some no welding worm was used to using, but I did it anyway and put downhill TIG in the top and rolled it over and did the same thing on the other side.

Sorry to get off on a rant, but I been welding 30 years, and I'm telling you a 1/8 gap for a 1/8 6010 is too damn much gap. Try closing it up, turn your heat up a little, drag the rod or whip it just a little, you are gonna be surprised at the result.
Parent - - By chris2698 (****) Date 03-30-2007 06:43
Zcat thanks for the story I have seen one downhill pipe welder like his root to be about a 1/16th gap and I do understand less gap faster you go filling and I wouldn't be surprised if I do that oneday if I ever get to pipe welding in the field. On a 8 inch or so pipe at school 5G I can take about one rod and go half way around it which I thought isn't to bad maybe a little more even. So with a 1/16th gap going downhil do yall use 5/32 rods or smaller? My teacher had said something about that one time about going downhill that when you do it just burry the rod so deep you can take your shield off and weld you have it burried so much but he never told me the gap. My teacher try's to not to talk about downhill much because he always says if a person can do it uphill he can do it downhill. I think in a way I'm better uphill it just feels weird downhill but you do get more penetration. Zcat what kinda machine do you prefure to pipe weld with? Thanks

Chris
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 03-30-2007 22:05
I guess an old Lincoln 200 is probably the best machine you could get for stick welding.

You could use a 5/32 or a 1/8, just adjust your heat accordingly. Your teacher was right, you wanta bury that rod so all the fire is going inside the pipe. I would do the same if I was welding plate with stick. Practice going uphill and downhill, you never know when it might come in handy.
Parent - By chris2698 (****) Date 04-01-2007 05:44
I tried oneday I had found some 5/32 6010P rods but I think they had gotten wet so they ran kinda werid. I had a 1/8th gap but with all the heat to run that rod it should have been like a 1/16th gap instead of a 1/8. I ran a pass once downhill and couldn't believe how much penetration I had gotten I was useing a 1/8th rod with a 1/8th gap. It's unreal how much metal it will carry going downhill hell i went maybe more then half way around the pipe so 5/32 you could probally go all the way around. When my teachers not looking I play around a little with downhill to kinda learn them both.
Parent - By HgTX (***) Date 03-30-2007 16:22
In D1.1, you won't find a prequalified SMAW joint detail with bevel under 45 degrees, at least not without backing and a big root opening.  I don't know what ASME says.

Hg
Parent - - By bphinson (*) Date 04-04-2007 20:57
ZCat-Bradley here, how you doing? I have made some modifications to this first post regarding the root pass. In particular, I have modified the way in which I hold the electrode holder based on the recommendations of my instructor. He has urged me to use a "one-handed technique" as opposed to the "two-hand" technique I have been accustomed to using this entire semester. I am right-handed, so I rest the body weight on primarily my left elbow and use the left hand to somewhat support and steady my right hand as the rod travels the length of the joint. This new one-hand technique feels kind of alien to me, as I am not use to it. And the distance from the workpiece to my helmet in considerably greater as I am standing almost upright/straight as opposed to "leaning into" the workbench/worktable. My hand does not feel as steady as before using the one hand. Parameters are pretty much the same: single v-groove in 1G, 3/8" steel plate, 1/16 gap, 30 deg.bevel, nickel-thickness land, 6010 3/32" rod. Maybe this comes with experience. I just want to nail this root pass to where I have 100% consistent, full penetration, complete fusion, uniform root passes.
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 04-07-2007 05:09
You should change the 3/32 rod to a 1/8 or 5/32. You won't find 3's on too many jobs.

I often rest the rod on my left hand index finger to steady it, especially when capping with a 7018. Pretty hard on the old glove, so I just do it at the start till I get going, then I put my elbow or hand on the pipe. You'll get used to it, welding takes a LOT of practice. If your gap is closing up on you, turn the heat up a little and push the rod down in there. If it sticks, turn it up a little more.
Parent - - By bphinson (*) Date 04-07-2007 17:07
ZCat-thanks for the recommendation. I have noticed a considerable difference in the way a 3/32 rod burns as opposed to the 1/8. It seems to melt as quick as a hot knive and butter. What do you think of the notion of an entry-level rookie running his own rig as opposed to production welding, new construction, plant maintenance, etc. Or is the rig option of those options one ventures into once he has a few years under his belt? Reason I ask is because my local supply house in Santa Fe,TX (off Hwy.6 & I-45 S. going toward Galveston,TX) maintains a list of 50+ rig welders. Thus the area is saturated w/rigs I suppose one could say. Pretty much every time I randomly go to the gas station there's a rig fueling up. As always thanks and have a great easter weekend!
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 04-07-2007 21:13
Well, rig welders usually have to fit, too. So you may have problems with that if you're just starting out, unless you already know how . Happy Easter to you, too.
Parent - - By 2003440 (**) Date 04-12-2007 02:15
I wanted to drop in i am just curious what is the teacher telling you to do as far as your cap as far as weaving a large cap or stringers? i have a hard time on large caps myself i see alot of guys breeze through them i have to work my a@# on large caps i have always just have had a hard time on them, does anyone have any input on this i know there is some old timers out there that can shed some light on cap procedures.also zcat thanks for the good info you always input!
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 04-12-2007 03:37
aw, shucks :-)
Parent - - By thegooven Date 04-13-2007 06:07
hey i also have a question for you guys in my class i'm doin the same shit only in the flat position because we're just startin our v grooves this week. we do it with 1/8 6010 3/32 gap and land but im havin a hell of a time gettin that second tie in! i tried pulling a long arc and heating up the tack when the keyholes meet, then just jammin my rod in there a couple times to get it but when i look on the other side it doesnt look right  it just looks like a little blob of crap where the tie in is supposed to be flush with the root penetration
can anyone tell me somethin? thanks, gooven
Parent - By ZCat (***) Date 04-13-2007 06:18
you gotta feather the tack
Parent - - By bphinson (*) Date 04-14-2007 02:53
thegooven-brad here maybe a I can help you out a little. I've taken the suggestions from many regular members on this forum and applied them directly to my current welding class curriculum (especially from aeveld, yorkiepap, zcat, shooterfpga, etc.) Their words and advice are pretty much gospel. Their recommendations really helped me get over the hump and frustration I was having w/v-groove butt joints. Here's where I made my changes. Started using a strict 1/16" gap, "nickel" thickness land, 30 deg.bevel (of course), and I switched from the dual-wheel combo grinder/polisher machine to a hand grinder/polisher. Put the plates in a heavy vice and beveled them out, etc. Also started grinding out my starts/stops to achieve the "feathered" or "boatramp" effect to get nice consistent and uniform tie-ins. Also feathered the tacks on the ends a bit to avoid the blob on the ends look. I noticed and discovered that I had just the right penetration depth w/the rod (not too deep but just deep enough) when it kind of seemed to float nicely along the land which consequently steadied my hand to a greater degree. Also that good burnthrough sound is a good indicator. I use little 1/8" or so whips/pauses and they have worked out quite nicely. Also maybe elevate your workpiece off the worktable and it will help w/penetration. I've been runnin' the old big blue @ 80 amps or so. Hope this helps and let me know if you get some good results. However don't worry because the day is right around the corner where it will all come together...you're adrenaline will be sky high, you will feel 10-ft. tall, and beat on your chest cause you just nailed that root pass!-Brad-
Parent - - By thegooven Date 04-21-2007 18:51
thanks a ton for the tips bphinson and zcat the key is to feather it! now i can get a perfect uniform root everytime and i tested on it and now im into the vertical v groove which i think is alot easier then the flat position because its easier to keep a straight rod angle and lead angle but for the hot pass and cap we are using 7018 so you really gotta make sure you grind your root so you cant see any caves. but with the flat it was geting very frustrating because i had a couple pieces that peeled pretty bad when my instructor bent them, mainly just at my second tie in so i went and got a 1/8th grindingdisc and feathering is like a dream with that baby and i havent had a problem since! thanks again guys
Parent - - By ZCat (***) Date 04-22-2007 05:45
rookies....hehe :-) Glad to help, fellers.
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 05-10-2007 11:57
if you close the gap and turn up the heat a bit you can do the root pass with one rod.
Up Topic Welders and Inspectors / Education & Training / root pass on single v-groove butt joint in flat position

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