Train Axle

Date 02-13-2007 17:44

Hey

This isnt my area of expertise so--to the experts.

I have 12 pieces of train axle cut into segments that will be used to weigh down a piece in the ocean. I need to attach a loop for a rope/cable to go through. The loop will be of o.750 steel bent in a "U". If the train axle is 4140/1040 or/ something else and the loop is mild steel, will there be issues at the joint with the different carbon content?
I read that I should preheat to 400F the chunk of steel b/f welding--I sound like a kid--Do I HAVE to preheat? It is more a consideration of time than laziness.
Can I use MIG or Stick?
This isnt a rocket science piece but the chunks weigh 100# and I wouldnt want to be responsible for one dropping on some unsuspecting sailors foot.

Thanks

By 357max

Date 02-13-2007 21:33

Determine first the weld process, suggestion would be E7018 SMAW and weld to the axle a piece of 1" thick A36 steel or a length of the 0.75 rod with a fillet weld on one side. Let the weld cool down to dead cold. Use a big hammer and pound the A36 steel towards the fillet weld. If the axle metal breaks away and not through the weld. Get a 500 degree F Tempil Crayon. Preheat the axle to 500 degrees. A pallet wood fire works great if you don't have a multiflame propane/acetylene torch. With the hot axle, weld the A36/rod (don't preheat) again. Try the bend/break test again.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 02-14-2007 04:00

Really conservative- drill a hole through and put in an eyebolt with a nut on the other side.
Less conservative- wrap the pieces that form the loops around the axle and stitch them on. Then even if the welds crack you have a good chance that the pieces will continue to fly in formation till they are safely at the bottom of the sea.
Bill

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 02-14-2007 05:22

If these need tolast a long time, I would wrap the 3/4 steel all the way around the axle, form the loop and wrap the end around the axle too. Weld the wraps shut and weld to the axle so it cant slide off. I would do this as a longer lasting job from a rust standpoint. This way the entire 3/4" has to rust off, not just the weld beads. The eyebolt and nut is good too, use a real big eyebolt and weld the nut fast. By the way, is this to sink something or to hold it in place like a mooring?

By rebekah (**)

Date 02-14-2007 15:45 Edited 02-14-2007 15:50

It's to sink something. Why does that matter?

I had to add some material to get to the proper weight on one and preheated to 500F, used 11018 (my super rec) and so far it hasnt split or anything. To do a break test would be overkill as far as the super is concern.
I think I will use the wrap idea for the connection. I think these are not going to be used long or again so to spend the time to drill a through hole in 7" dia 8" long pieces would be to time consuming--though it does seem to make the most sense saftey wise.
Thanks for the input.

By hogan

Date 02-14-2007 16:37

how about a 1" hole and tap it

By rebekah (**)

Date 02-14-2007 16:42

I asked about that, Hogan, and they said to weld it. Some times they just want it done the way they want it done.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 02-15-2007 05:51

Rebekah, The reason I asked about sink or as a mooring is as a mooring there are wear and corosion issues over time, and I would mention that a deadweight mooring isn't particularly effective unless burried in the seabed. None of these concerns seem to be an issue.