Welding Machine 'Mechanics', Help Me Out, Please

Date 03-25-2007 20:47

So, I got up here to Bellingham and fired my Classic 3D Up, it hasn't seen much use in the last 6 years.

When I weld with a 1/8 6010+ the arc wants to quit, just for a split second, then fires back up again. Welding somewheres close to bead running heat, so not real hot, but not excessively cold, either. I got my stone out and cleaned the commutator and tried again, didn't help.

I tried it with a 3/32 7018, no problem there, welds just fine.

What do I need to do, change out the brushes? Never done that before, how hard is it to get right? The brushes look like they are seated on there pretty good...

I've noticed this before, welding with other people's machines, old ragged out turnaround machines.

I gotta fix this.....

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 03-26-2007 04:10

I am going on a flyer here: Is there is a field rheostat on these machines? I am pretty sure there is, it could be dirty or coroded in some places. Turning the controll or if it is wire wound and You can easily get to the back of it scrubbing the contact surface down with the commutator stick might help.

By ZCat

Date 03-26-2007 20:38 Edited 03-26-2007 20:54

Well Dave, I appreciate you trying to help me out. I took the top off and cleaned up the rheostat, but that didn't fix the problem, still cutting out on me.

Something I noticed today, I tried to put it on the lower setting: 130/80, turned the fine adjustment all the way up and it was barely hot enough to burn a 1/8 6010. That doesn't seem right at all.

I've been trying to run it on 120/190 setting with the fine adjustment on 30 , about where a guy would run the root bead on pipe with a 1/8 6010, and that's where it's cutting out on me. It doesn't fire up real good either, I'm having to strike the rod about 3 times to get it to start welding.

I'm thinking the brushes may need to be changed, but I'm really not much of a mechanic at all. The machine only has 1,512 hours on it...

Just called a mechanic in Seattle, he said since it's been sitting up not being used, maybe one of the brushes might be stuck or may have lost some rpm's and therefore a little voltage. So, I got a couple things to check out, he said it's nothing major or it wouldn't weld at all.

By PlanB

Date 03-27-2007 02:03

EXX10 electrodes really needs to be run on the bigger end of the reostat as it also controls voltage. You will get an unstable arc, wander on the lower side of the reo with a xx10 rod. Check the ocv with a voltmeter at high idle, roll the reostat around. If the ocv is still good, it should be if it still welds at all, you have a good machine and wont be a major prob.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 03-27-2007 02:51

I don't have one of these machines, but some things are pretty general. The brushes need to slide freely in the holder and the spring must push on the brush. If the spring is resting on the brush holder the brush is too short. If You try to weld with the end cover off while somebody watches for arcing at the brushes It might give a hint. There shouldn't be a lot of arcing. Is the engine responding properly to the load and not dying out? You probably would have mentioned that if it was happening. I would check for loose or coroded conections on all the field and output wiring. Did the unit work properly before storage? Do the other course range settings work OK with the fine adjustment in this position?

By ZCat

Date 03-27-2007 15:47

Well, I got other problems now, my truck is making a weird rumbling noise...D'OH!!!

By scrappywelds (***)

Date 03-27-2007 21:14

I had the same problem today myself, with the red 6010 (5p), fought with it for awhile till I tried nothing more than grinding a clean spot to get a better ground. Then it worked fine. I'm sure you checked the ground, but a little rust does make a difference sometimes.

By ZCat

Date 03-27-2007 21:30

I appreciate everyone's input. I opened it up again today and wiggled the brushes, nothing's stuck. It still does the momentary cutout, but I've decided I probably won't be burning a whole bunch of 1/8s on a rigwelder job anyway, so I ain't gonna worry about it anymore. It's good enough to go try and get a job with, I guess. It welds 7018 real nice.

I never was all that great of a downhill hand anyway, maybe I can find a TIG rigwelder job somewhere.

I never shoulda bought that machine in the first place.

Why did they stop making the Classic 1 ?