Carbon Start block

Date 03-20-2007 02:19

When I was a kid trying to learn to stick weld I used the carbon from a large 1 1/2 volt dry cell to start the arc on. They had a carbon rod about 1" in diameter and about 6" long. These WERE NOT alkaline batteries, I don't know if they even make them anymore. Maybee You could use a section of air arc carbon.

By supermechanic (**)

Date 03-20-2007 06:35

A good sized electric motor shop should have all the carbon blocks you could want. Try them.

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 03-21-2007 04:23

Diamond is pure carbon. More seriously, ask your welding supplier, if there is no need for something special an old brush stub from a welding generator is a fair sized chunk of graphite (carbon). If a tiny bit is enough pencil lead is mostly carbon. Those above have good suggestions.
Bill

By andrewsullivan9 (*)

Date 03-23-2007 17:57

Cheers guys think i might have some old large electric motors lying around the workshop somewhere ill fire up the oxy-acetelyne later and get cutting!

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 03-24-2007 01:29

Motor brushes are wearing parts so they are usually accessable. AC induction motors usually don't have brushes. Universal motors, like in vacuums and power tools usually do. I doubt a torch is necessary, usually a screwdriver is enough.
Bill

By darren

Date 03-26-2007 01:26

well a briquette, a piece of charcoal, or a lump of coal have the correct ingredients. however i wonder as to there ability to conduct electricity effectively. in theory a burnt piece of wood would work. just thought i'd put in my less than two cents worth of chemistry knowledge.
darren

By Shane Feder (****)

Date 03-26-2007 04:33

Andrew,
I am not sure why you even need a "carbon start block".
X-ray quality scratch start GTAW welding has been performed for years prior to the invention of high frequency.
Basically it just comes down to practice, practice, practice and you will find it is really quite easy.
Good luck.
Regards,
Shane

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 03-27-2007 00:13

The briquett or the charcoal would not self extinguish reliably when you moved away from them. That could be inconvenient.
Bill

By darren

Date 03-27-2007 03:05

maybe we got a new way to light the barbecue, all you need is a tig torch, maybe lincoln and miller would be interested, a lot of barbecues out there. any one out there who wants to spring for a patent just forward the cash to my address in a unmarked brown paper bag any amount will do, no coins please.

you know bill i thought that maybe i shouldnt post this as someone might not get that im kidding and id get in trouble for trying to solicit money but if someone cant discern that this is humour then they probably wouldnt have the wits to carry out litigation and i could use the money to by an apostrophe
darren

By ZCat

Date 03-27-2007 15:21

I'm confused'

Why do you need this?

By billvanderhoof (****)

Date 03-27-2007 23:50

I'm not a tig guy so I could be wrong but I think the idea is to start the arc on something inert so the tungsten doesn't get contaminated.
Bill

By andrewsullivan9 (*)

Date 03-28-2007 02:56

Yeah thanks for your help guys , just been having a few problems with the tungsten sticking to the work particulary when using cheapo tig equipment with low current. i turned up to a weld test welding thin stainless steel, fusion method with a £200 welder and was completely lost had loads of problems with the material sticking to the work, threw the head up and walked out. Mainly in the past i have been using a Kempi 1500 master tig with hf start and could normally pass weld tests with my eyes closed

By ZCat

Date 03-28-2007 05:19

Rest your cup on the metal with the tungsten about where you'd hold it to weld, flick your filler wire so it hits the tungsten and the base metal at the same time. Strikes right up and doesn't mess up your tungsten point.