tank welding

By MCREWS2 Date 05-12-2007 14:35

YOUR 6010 SERIES IS A DOWN HILL ROD AND IS ACCEPTED IN THE API 650-653 TANK REPAIRS I AM NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE 7010 BUT WE USE THE 6010 AND SAW PROCEDURES IN TANK REPAIRS ON YOUR 6010 TEST COUPON I LIKE TO USE A 3/32 GAO WITH A 5/32 ELECTRODE STARTIN AT THE TOP START YOUR ARC I USE A SLIGHT JACKIN METHOD JACKIN FROM DOWN TO BACK INTO THE PUDDLE MAKIN SURE YOU TIE BACK INTO THE PUDDLE FOR COMPLETE TIE IN THIS IS A PRETTY EASY PROCEDURE AND PROCESS TO MASTER GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE I COULD BE OF SOME HELP

By Cole Welding (**)

Date 05-12-2007 15:50

are you useing 7010 plus or 70 hyp rod???

By alumtig (**)

Date 05-12-2007 17:25

Lincoln Shield-arc 85 E7010-A1 Everything I've read indicates this is an acceptable welding rod for vertical down welding of pipe. I have had my welder run two coupons (PLATE) vertical down and can't get it to pass a bend test. The first set of coupons broke in the center of the weld. The second set broke closer to the fusion line or toe of the weld. There were no inclusions of any type. The weld just broke. ANY ADVISE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. Would there be a difference plate/pipe?

By downhandonly (***)

Date 05-12-2007 19:03

you can run way hotter downhand, make sure you catch the edges and burn the biggest rod you can handle.

By JTMcC

Date 05-12-2007 22:38

Shield Arc 85 is the latest thing in 1950's consumable technology. It's probably the least user friendly downhill pipe rod made now. Hippy (Lincoln 7010 HYP) used to be the worst but the new version is very good. Do yourself a favor and use Hippy or 70+ (or the new improved version if you can find it, 8P+). These are very user friendly rods.
However, if you have experienced downhill welders they will have no problem with the old Shield Arc 85.
If you don;t have any experienced downhill hands then you'd be miles ahead to find one and have him show your welders how.
Also, I'd check the grade of the test coupons and maybe run again with a verifiable known grade of plate.

JTMcC.

By downhandonly (***)

Date 05-13-2007 04:36

I did about 30 miles of 30" last summer with 8P+(pipeliner) rod. I found it to fill way better than 70+ but some of the caps had a ton of porosity. ( it was pretty windy though)the pipe was 1/2" thick so the cap was super wide, some guys found strip capping got better results. All said and done I couldn't wait to burn 70+ or HYP again.

By dbigkahunna (****)

Date 05-14-2007 03:12

Ok, This is kinda hard to follow. First read ASME Section IX 405.3. There is a term called a "wash pass" which can be run up or down. What this means is you can DH a joint then run a 7018 DH to "slick er up". It can also be used on UH welds as well. Finding someone who can run LH downhill and make it look good is one mean trick these days. Before hand grinders were common the only way to dress up a weld was using welding rods.
In the tank business, years ago, you got paid on production and inches of weld. Slicking the weld off was a way to clean up the weld quickly. Let me explain how this works as I have seen it done only twice. The 7018 is run HOT As you are weaving side to side the slag starts getting ahead of you. You take another welding rod and flick the molten slag away from the weld. Again while you are running the rod. A 8 foot joint will take 3-4 5/23 rods to do. Some of these welds are 3/4 to 1 inch wide!.
Your crew is bing asked to do something that is no longer done in the industry. There are still a few people in the business who can do this. Also regardless of the welding progression, this "wash pass" not change the essential variable of the welder test????? You are limited on DH welds in 650/653 to materials 1/2 inch and less. If your guys are welding out 7018 and need to sleck er up, you need new welders!
BABRT's