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Up Topic Welding Industry / Welding Fundamentals / Grinding or sanding Aluminum
- - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 05-18-2007 08:59
Here is a good one

Got to grind, sand , rotary file or use a cutoff wheel on aluminum??

Use some wax (solid wax not lemon pledge) on your sandpaper or tooling and you will be amazed at how little it will load up and how fast it will cut.  Works fantastic with rotary files and die grinders.  There is a product made from parrifin wax out there called Bolube that is especially made for this.   BTW this stuff will flame up if you get it real hot.
Parent - - By Lawrence (*****) Date 05-18-2007 09:20
Right on Tommy

A chunk of parafin (about $1 per pound in the canning section of your local grocery) will save thousands of dollars in ball burrs.  Just hit the parafin with the burr and grind, rehit the parafin every few moments and the thing will last 50 times longer than without the stuff.

In another life I spent about 2 years in a dungeon in San Francisco repairing aluminum and magnesium gearbox castings and cascade vanes for DC10's and 727's.  A challenge/nightmare to be sure.

Ever weld Magnesium with DCEP, 1/4 inch tungsten and helium?

Parafin will even work to extend the life of thin cutoff wheels on inconel and hastelloy hot section parts that need patchwork. Titanium has been known to eat a cutoff wheel in just a few seconds if you have a bad harmonic, a little wax will increase both speed and quality as well as extend tool life.

I like Bolube for drillbits and countersinks
Parent - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 05-18-2007 09:27
Ever weld Magnesium with DCEP, 1/4 inch tungsten and helium?

OMG!!!
Parent - - By devo (***) Date 05-22-2007 14:13
I have heard about using wax to reduce loading on burr bits for die grinders, but I have a question.  Will the wax contaminate the aluminum when you go to weld it?  I suppose I could just weld up some coupons and find out for myself, but I am currently engaged in other projects. 
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 05-22-2007 17:43
Hello Devo, I have done a fair amount of repair type work on various aluminum parts, I have used parafin wax and I have also used bandsaw blade wax that was made by the DoAll company(don't know what the components of that are). I don't recall ever having any real issues with contaminating the aluminum, however in many cases I was also giving the parts a slight preheat so this may have evaporated or burned off the wax residues, I was also brushing immediately afterwards. Don't know if acetone would remove any wax residue, maybe others with experience here might chime in and give their opinion. Regards, aevald
Parent - - By Lawrence (*****) Date 05-22-2007 19:03
If I was routing cracks in a massive aluminum casting and used parafin on ball burrs,  I often would also have access to a hot vapor degreaser which would float away any residual parafin or dye penetrant.

I think for the most part that the tools are rotating at such speeds that everything is ejected including parafin.

On more open surfaces I would simply use a clean 80/120 grit disc to remove any residual.

Lots of X-rays on these projects,  Rejects if any were always due to tungsten inclusions or insufficient crack removal.  100% of cracks must be removed prior to welding aluminum or magnesium (best to verify with FPI),  Ya just won't have much succsess if you try to weld over a flaw or "burn it out"
Parent - - By TozziWelding (**) Date 05-23-2007 00:13
"A chunk of parafin (about $1 per pound in the canning section of your local grocery) will save thousands of dollars in ball burrs.  Just hit the parafin with the burr and grind, rehit the parafin every few moments and the thing will last 50 times longer than without the stuff."
I have shown many people the magic wax, I think we are keeping Gulf Wax in buisness.
Parent - By 803056 (*****) Date 05-24-2007 04:34
I consulted for a defence contractor several years ago that was involved with welding aluminum. The wax did prove to be troublesome if it wasn't completely removed prior to welding.

I suspect you are correct in saying the vapor degreaser removed the wax prior to welding. We didn't have a vapor degreaser and the wax was a nightmare. We had a devil of a time removing it completely. We ended up prohibiting the use of waxes for joint preparation or for the excavation of welds to be repaired. We did use wax for finishing welds. However, when porosity was encountered while finishing welds, and they needed to be repaired, great pains were taken to remove the wax residue before rewelding.

I recently consulted for another fabrication house that works with aluminum exclusively. They consistently produce some of the best aluminum welds I've seen. They use routers with carbide tools to prepare the weld joints. No wax is permitted except when finishing (i.e., grind the welds with "soft" pads and sand paper) completed welds and to "lube" the band saw blades when cutting material to length.

I observed the welders wetting the carbide cutting tools with isopropyl alcohol to minimize "loading" by the aluminum. It is not as effective as the wax, but it leaves no residue on the aluminum. The welders were religious about flushing their tools with isopropyl alcohol before every use to remove all soils, grease, etc., as well as to help prevent "loading" the cutting edges. They also flushed the joint with isoproply before welding (not simply wiping the joint with a saturated rag). The welders were doing everything I "trained" the welders to do several years earlier at the previous company I mentioned.

If you really wanted to tick-off the welders, just use the wax with their joint preparation cutters and stand back to watch the fire works. The welders would all but jump down the "finisher's" throat if they caught them using their tools with wax. 

Best regards - Al
Parent - - By XPERTFAB (**) Date 05-24-2007 05:24
On light guage parts that woould not favorably respond to preheat such as the vintage Ferrari fender you just spent tow days making components for on the Yoder and beater bag.  Using fresh painter's rags along with a liberal application of Wax and Grease remover as used in the auto paint trade works wonders to avoid the problems as have been mentioned.  Again!! thorough and clean in your work are paramount because little is worse to then to have a weld begin to exhibit signs of failure when you are down to the last few bumps  metal finishing an aluminum, too thin, compound curved, body component that needs to be delivered in the morning.  Any welding repairs at this point is "very painful" to the shaping operation that took place prior.  No! bouncing the part off the shop floor at this point does not qualify as a "shaping operation".
XPERTFAB
Parent - - By Tommyjoking (****) Date 05-24-2007 10:32 Edited 05-24-2007 12:45
oh yea  I should have posted about welding where you you use it.

Its not easy to remove....its some what impervious to solvents (like its inert to them like glass).  You wont just wipe it away ... open flame can burn it away...but then your heating your metal where you may not want too.    I do not use it near welded joints..unless i can abrasively clean it after...a lot of our aluminum parts get alodine so the are etched in acid...the acid does not remove the wax without extremely long exposure. 

Scothbrite or any abrasive process will remove the parrifin quickly and easily tho......I use a butterfly or scothbrite on aluminum cut with wax most of the time and it cleans up easily.  With aluminum cleaning is a requirement in my book anyway so....
Parent - By Joseph P. Kane (****) Date 05-24-2007 12:34
For weld bevel preparation, on a new plate, you can use an ordinary skill saw with a carbide tipped blade.  For groove preparation on a repair, or to back gouge, use a grinding  disc or a carbide burr (rotary file).  I recommend using a 2 or 3 flute carbide burr when grinding aluminum, because it doesn't load up like the rotary files used for steel.  Use K-1 Kerosine as a lubricant (just dip the burr into it every few seconds, do  not pour it into the groove).  For grinding with an abrasive disc, use the ordinary Aluminum Oxide discs for fast removal, and don't worry about the disc loading up (wear face and eye protection).  Don't use wax, - you cannot easily remove it from the metal, unless you have a special vapor degreaser, or a good hot flame. After getting the groove prepped with an Aluminum Oxide disc, follow it up with the Carbide Burr to remove the smear and the oxide grit.
Parent - By marshtackie Date 05-24-2007 18:14
Beeswax is very good also, Just wipe residue with acetone before welding
Parent - By arcboy (*) Date 06-01-2007 19:41
I do a ton of aluminum welding and grinding and we just use bar soap.  Never tried anything else.  The soap needs to be applied quite often though I don't know about the others.
Parent - - By MAX04 Date 06-05-2007 15:11
I recently discovered that WD-40 seems to perform in a similar manner. It even cleaned an already loaded disk on my air die grinder.
Parent - By speedball1981 Date 07-05-2007 07:23
at the place i work at we pretty much only weld aluminum,  and some of the peices i work on are upwards of 1500 pounds,  100% x-ray and dye checked,  we do have beeswax,  and that works ok if you don't have to weld on it or you then buff it off with a scotch pad,  but we have this silicone lube that works really really well, and leave almost no residue,  with the little amount that would be on the blade/pad,  most of the residue would be on the shavings.  the stuff we use is in a green can, made by scjohnson wax i think,  but i'm sure any silicone would work    and when your using it you can feel the difference in the cut.  i've been using alot of the same cutting tools since i started there,  (almost 2 yrs)  that stuff can make an old tool new again, 
but be careful to keep it away from an open flame (the can)  it is really flamable and the gasses the propelent gives off when its burning apparentely is toxic...
later
Parent - By Greg G. (**) Date 07-12-2007 14:41
The wax products will help a lot. But they make a resin fiber disc that is for grinding aluminum. The use of wax is a double edge sword. It will help your grinding process along by extending the life of the disc and speed up the removal of the material, but if you are going to get something powder coated it may present a big problem. The wax can get into small places that can not be seen or are unnoticeable and when the powder is applied and the part put into the oven and heated to curing temp. then the wax will melt and run on your paint job and ruin it.
I have had this problem before and racked my brain and others over it as to what is wrong with the powder coating process, and all the time the problem was coming from the grinding process. Just a word of advice from experience.
We used the wax stick rarely after that. Cheaper to buy more resin fiber disc than the repowder coat things.
Up Topic Welding Industry / Welding Fundamentals / Grinding or sanding Aluminum

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