Welding Aluminum Irragation Pipe

Date 06-25-2007 09:14

The trailblazer should go low enough in amperage to manage this job....a 1/16 filler should do the trick.....if it seems problematic too much heat on lowest setting....try using a 3/32 filler and let it absorb some of the heat for ya. Its a lot easier to do a job like this with tig than with wire. This is provided the pipe/tube your talking about is around .030 any thing thinner than that and I think your gonna have probs.

By Fredspoppy (**)

Date 06-25-2007 11:12

One tip that might help. When GTA welding thin aluminum, many will start with very low amperage. The nature of Al is that it conducts heat away quickly, so may be difficult to get a puddle going, then a small weld is possible, but soon you blow through. Try starting a bit hotter than you think normal, but move quickly to stay ahead of heat buildup. Manipulation of the filler to help absorb some of the heat is also a good tip.

By Molten Metal (**)

Date 06-26-2007 23:07

Remember this too...The oxidation that forms on the surface of aluminum melts at about twice the temp. that alum. melts at.(about 1200-1300 degrees).Aluminum is ALWAYS oxidizing.Even if you've wire brushed it with a clean stainless wire brus just an hour earlier.This is one of the reasons that thin aluminum needs to be xtra clean and prepared just b4 welding.That extra bit of heat it takes to blow through the oxidation is just too hot once it gets to the base matl.It's not nearly as noticable with thicker weldments for obvious reasons.As for the equipment,well,ofcourse the dynasty would be cool.On that thin stuff I like to run a bit thicker filler wire like someone else mentioned on here,to suck up some of the heat.Also,really feed the wire in the puddle.Dont dab it.Back up and go forward quickly.My 2-cents. Good luck.

By makeithot (***)

Date 06-26-2007 15:56

I like the 251D-2 unit as I have the contacter etc built into the machine and this allows you to use a foot pedal when hooked into the remote. You will need to purchase extensions for the remote if you want to be future from the truck then 20'. For the application you are talking about that is how I would do it as this allows you to control your heat input into the pipe as you go.The foot pedal will run you around $300.00 and a 100' of extension is another $100.00 . you can do it without the foot pedal but it makes the job that much easyer with it.

By Greg G. (**)

Date 07-05-2007 18:14

If you are going to continue to try and use the Spoolmatic gun. Try a spool of 4043 .035 dia. wire if you have not already done so. It will be much easier to weld with. For my money you should use GTAW with a 1/16" dia. tungsten( pure). Make sure you have a good fit as this can be a real problem with blowing through thin material. A good fit will make a world of difference in welding thin aluminum. Also if you are not very experienced with al. this to will cause a problem.

By gawelder (**)

Date 07-06-2007 00:40 Edited 07-06-2007 13:48

I usually use my 30amp Spoolmatic with .035 /4043alloy connected to my Millermatic 251 with straight Argon.The setting I use on the Millermatic is 16volts and I use the #4 setting for the wire speed on the spoolgun. First clean the joint real good with a stainless steel wire brush,then tac it around the perimeter,then weld a little bit so as not to get the joint to hot ,then work your way around the pipe until you have the first pass, then turn the machine up to 17volts and make another pass using a weaving pattern. Hope this helps!!
gawelder