Help!!!???!! Replacing rear main seal on Lincoln 250 D3.152

Date 09-30-2007 06:30

aimec , try to rotate one and hold the other if it has locking pins in the dowels you will damage them if you try to pry off . you still have to support the armature so it doesn' get damaged . good luck . willie

By shorthood2006 (****)

Date 09-30-2007 13:31

yes!! spin it a 1/4 turn. so many people try to pry it or take a cutting torch to the "grill" and cut a hole into the flywheel cover!

By Aimec Date 09-30-2007 16:07

OK. Here's what I'm running to. I have removed all the bolts that hold the engine to the generator bell housing. All these bolts are the ones that have the threads facing to the rear and their heads facing the front. Two of them were fine threaded. This is all thats required to seperate the bell housing from the seperator plate. I am refering to the plate that the starter bolts to. Now, the problem is in that the armature is bolted to the coupling disc which in turn is connected to the engine coupling via bolts holding the " blower segments " on. My question is " Is what the manuals are calling the coupling disc actually the flywheel/ring gear assembly? It appears to be that way to me. Or is the engine coupling what you guys are refering to as the part that needs to be rotated 1/4 turn? It appears to me that what looks like the flywheel is actually the engine coupling and the flywheel connected to each other. Does that sound right?

I have not tried to remove any bolts that are inside the bell housing facing forward due to the inaccesability factor. Just stating that in case someone here did'nt mention it thinking it would be obvios to do so. But I don't think it's necessary.

One more thing. I have a mechanical background. 13 years in engine and transmission overhaul and general repair. I know that when I get this thing apart it will be a Home Simpson moment, but right now I'm stumped.

By shorthood2006 (****)

Date 09-30-2007 16:47

1st, if the engine and the housing(armiture) are apx. 1" apart, take the housing and turn it counterclock wise . with pry bars on each side, you should be able to walk the housing off. DO NOT PRY. by the way, did you take the large nut off of the end of the armiture(under the cap)

By Aimec Date 09-30-2007 19:33

If I do that, nothing happens. The housing turns and the armature stays stationary. Once the housing is unbolted and pulled back a bit you could spin it in a circle. You mentioned taking the big nut off the back of the armature shaft. Does that mean that I have to disassemble the welding generator? For instance remove the brushes from the 3.5 kvt rotor assembly, pull the rotor off thus allowing the axle of the armature along with the axle bearing to slide out of the alternator bracket - keep going until housing is off and engine remains witharmature still attatched to it? If so, There would be no reason to rotate anything 1/4 turn on this machine. If not then why do I need to remove the nut from the back of the armature? If yes, then how do you keep from screwing up the armature by dragging it on the coils? I'm not clear on the actual procedure. Does the generator just come off, or does it get disassembled? Thanks alot for trying to help out!

Patpro said earlier" Take out the bolts to the flywheel, the thin plate, then twist about a1/4 turn, it will disconnect from dowels, then support the armature etc.
1). What flywheel bolts are accessable at this point?
2). Twist what a 1/4 turn?

By Aimec Date 09-30-2007 14:04

Thanks guys!!! I'll give it a shot.

By KSellon (****)

Date 10-02-2007 13:01

Is it out of the frame? The generator housing, armature and engine must be removed from the frame as one piece. Once out of the frame you can disassemble it further. Let me know if you need anything.