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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 7010 HYP. loaner rod
- - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 10-31-2007 22:22
Anybody around Kingfisher OK that can loan me some hippy rod for a test next week? I sure could use the help.
Parent - - By TozziWelding (**) Date 11-01-2007 02:01
Guy, just buy 10 pounds and call it a day.
Parent - - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 11-03-2007 03:47
well nobody around roland ok will sell just 10 lbs of it or i would do just that hand!! 50 lbs or your out of luck and I dont need that much
Parent - - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 11-03-2007 15:59 Edited 11-03-2007 16:07
If you have been welding with 70+ ther is not that much diference except on the bead. If you are testing on 0.250 or 0.318 WT X60 or 65 pipe, keep the heat and travel speed down. With a SA200 190 and 45-50 or 240 and 35-40. Concentrate on the keeping the keyhole round. If the keyhole starts streching out (cowcocking) it will be undecutting. Try to keep the rod at 85 to 90 degrees to the bevel. And dont push on the rod when you are between 2-4 o'clock. Pulling the rod down, which will lengthen the arc WILL cause UC on the thinner high grade pipe. Pushing will cause the same. Not so much on X42 grades with 0.375 WT.  Grind the bead as little as possiable. You can push the IUC out with the hot pass. If you try to grind the WT out then you do not have enough meat on the bead to push the bead in. On the Hot Pass be in the high end of the pocedure range. On a SA200 240 and 70 with a 5/32 If you have good technique with 70+ on thin high grade pipe, HYP will not be that much different. Get the thought out of your head HYP is a Booger rod. Welders welded with it for years and with all the X52 pipe in the ground, it will be around for many more years, so you may as well learn how to run it. Good Luck and keep the heat down on the bead!
BABRt's
Parent - By spacing tool Date 11-03-2007 23:55
Hello to all, Again the dbigkahunna has given some good information. Things that have worked for me in running beads with 5P+, 70+ or HYP are try to keep your shoulders even when you have a land that is not even sometimes that can cause undercut. As was said when running the bead try not toget a big old keyhole. What seems to work for me is keep your rod 90 degrees more or less with the bevels try not to get any side angle unless you have some bad highlow and you are trying to catch the other bevel. I always try to keep my rod choked in the bevels with not really any keyhole between the leading edge of the rod and the completed bead it always seems to work pretty good for me. But I am no world renowed bead hand either. For space and shoulder I like a land about the thickness of a clear glass and the same space. Works good for me with either 1/8 or a 5/32. Another things to do is always make sure your inside edge has no rust can also cause hollow bead. Remember when you start getting into X60,65 and X70 pipe you need to have space because the pipe is harder than X42 or grade B pipe. When I was learning a welder that I helped showed me something that if you can not see the inside of the pipe. You can tell if you have internal undercut by looking at the apperance of the front side of the bead if it is a grey color, really shunk into the bevels and has no loose slag along its egdes that is usally a sign of internal undercut. When the bead is kinda bright with slag along the edges and kind of has a high crown to it for the most part should not have to much undercut on the inside. One more thing HYP and 70+ on the bead are not as forgiving as 5P+ is your space and shoulders need to be pretty uniform. These are just some thins that seem to work for me. Not saying they are right, wrong or otherwise. Good Night.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / 7010 HYP. loaner rod

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