What kind of filler?

Date 11-18-2007 07:26

Weldbear thats a lot of $$ so might as well try a repair and make you a new spare lets see.

This is just a stab at your base alloy. If its cast (looks like it is from pics on the net) it is probably 355,356,366 or 413. More then likely one of the first three. If this is the case then 4043 or 4145 would be a good choice of filler....with an edge going toward 4043. If it was machined from billet stock it would probably be 6061 so I would use a 5356 in that case.

I recommend a TIG repair over the MIG....grind a good bevel out on all sides clamp it real well and fill it up. If its over 5/16 a light preheat before welding will not hurt....and of course remove all paint etc. from the weld area.

Its hard to give a definite without knowing the specific alloy...but I am pretty sure this will work for you.

Good Luck
Tommy

By 803056

Date 11-18-2007 15:03

Why take a chance on the type of aluminum alloy? After all, you could kill yourself if you are on a ladder pulling the repaired handle when it breaks and you go ass over tea kettle and crack your skull open when you hit the floor.

If you insist on welding the handle (I don't recommend it), send a sample out to a metallurgical lab to have it analyzed for alloy content. Remember, many aluminum alloys are heat treatable while other alloys are strain hardened, both alloying systems may not be as strong or as ductile after welding. The chemical analysis should be less than $100.00.

Best regards - Al

By bozaktwo1 (***)

Date 11-19-2007 17:43

Why take a chance indeed? Buy a new wrench. Save all sorts of potential problems.

By raftergwelding (*****)

Date 11-21-2007 03:24

He's already bought 1 cost him 200 bucks he wants to try the repair so he has an extra hell i'd try to repair it for that kind of money

By CWI555

Date 11-21-2007 04:44

ass over tea kettle? have to remember that one.

As to the point, I whole heartedly agree. Tried a repair on an aluminum intake manifold once. A new one would have been 300 bucks, however; the repair didn't hold, and it ended up catching the engine on fire. 300 turned into 2000 and some not so pleasant time on the side of the freeway. Suggest getting a new one and saving the risk.

Regards,
Gerald

By rlitman (***)

Date 11-21-2007 04:47

Well ridgid wrenches are all cast (either iron, or in this case aluminum), if that helps any.
I've never seen a pipe wrench handle machined from billet, but the ampco pipe wrenches I have, have a machined head (the ell part at the top, not just the jaws), where every other one I've seen has that part made from cast iron (even when the handle is aluminum).

BUT, if the wrench is actually a RIDGID brand, you might want to know that its covered by a lifetime warranty.
Have a look at:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/RIDGID-Warranty/index.htm
Hand tools (pipe wrenches etc.) should be returned to the place of purchase.
BTW, if your local supplier won't take it back, try a Home Depot. They're pretty good at warranty replacements.

-- Robert

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 11-21-2007 05:21

I would expect the parts on a Rigid to be forged, steel or aluminum.

By Kix

Date 11-21-2007 13:18

I've seen them repaired with good results and 4043 would be a good all around pick to go with. I once heard a myth that states if you don't know what it is use 4043.lol Depending on the circumstances I don't know if I would always go by that rule of thumb. I can however picture the ass over teakettle up on a scaffold 100' off the ground and that worries me. So I'd say fix it, be smart about it and NO CHEATERS are to be used on the repaired wrench.;-) Remember your not supposed to use a wrench in a situation where slippage could occur anyway so be smart and be safe. I guess what i'd really be doing would be looking into that warranty offer.