Chosing the correct Hypertherm models

Date 02-21-2008 05:35

Hello rogerfries, I have a Hypertherm 600 as my home machine, it is entirely capable of cutting the majority of home requirements unless you anticipate cutting 5/8 on a steady diet. It is also relatively easy on the consumables providing that you are using clean moisture free air and set to the proper operating pressure. Also use the correct diameter of nozzle for the thickness you are cutting, I believe you have 3 choices in this department, matching power level will also aid in the life of consumables and cut quality. My $.02 Best regards, aevald

By rogerfries Date 02-21-2008 21:23

Thanks aevald,

Does the 600 do a nice job on thin metal also? Do you think the 1000 might be too big? My next project is a log splitter so I will be cutting some thick stuff for that, but most of the time I'm working with 1/4" or less.

By KSellon (****)

Date 02-21-2008 22:06

I haven't heard of that problem, like Aevald said you have 3 nozzles to choose from. I would rather have more than not enough.

By aevald

Date 02-22-2008 03:14

Hello again rogerfries, somewhat as KSellon eluded to, if you can afford to go with the bigger machine it is always nice to have more than enough power instead of not enough. To answer your other question, these machines will do a really nice job on the thinner materials as well. That is part of why I included the information on the different nozzle sizes, they will help to tailor the cut to give you the best cut quality and their applications are typically dependent on material thickness, typically the larger the diameter of the orifice the thicker the material that they are designed to cut, in some cases they also suggest different air pressure settings to match a particular tip. There may also be a scarfing tip combination available for these machines(these are consumables that are used in place of the regular nozzle/tip set-up), this is a system that can be used to gouge out old welds, remove material to repair cracks, or simply prepare weld seams to allow for more complete penetration. Good luck and best regards, aevald

By Pat

Date 02-22-2008 06:07

Hi rogerfries,

I have the Powermax 1000 and would have to agree that more is better when you can afford it, and sometimes even when you can't afford it......saves upgrading down the road. The thinnest material I have used the 1000 to cut would be 1/8". It does a pretty decent job as long as you move right along. Thinner material requiring time to cut several radius, notching, etc, may leave you with less than desirable cuts. I have some projects coming up when and if warmer weather arrives. For these projects I will be cutting shapes out of 1/16" or less mild steel and copper. Hypertherm offers a fine cut consumables kit for the Powermax 1000 and several other models. I will be ordering one of these kits in the hopes it will allow me to achieve the results one would with a lower powered unit. I have had the Hypertherm for approx 2 years and have not experienced one problem with it. Good luck and have fun with your new machine when you get it. You will wonder how you ever got along without it.

By rogerfries Date 02-22-2008 14:59

Thanks everybody!
I'm thinking if I don't get the 1000 I'll be kicking myself. More is better seems to be the comon thread I'm getting from everybody here and elsewhere. I just got derailed by the salesman at the welding store who probably sells them, but dosen't often use them.

By rogerfries Date 02-22-2008 15:20

Oh yea,

One more question. Can this cut dirty metal. Rust, paint undercoat, seam sealer all that stuff? I of course know I need a clean spot for the ground clamp.

Thanks

By aevald

Date 02-22-2008 16:04

Hello rogerfries, the plasma cutter will basically cut anything that is electrically conductive or that an arc circuit can be initiated on. I say it that way because in some cases you could paint a surface with aluminized paint or some other sort of electrically conductive coating and cut through what ever is underneath it. I have heard of individuals taking formica and painting it and then cutting it with the plasma. You can also perform stack-cutting very readily with a plasma system. If you try to cut through multiple thicknesses of metal with an oxy-fuel type torch it can be very difficult or in some cases not be done at all, the plasma will handle this with ease. A clean starting point and making sure that you have a good ground are the important things to remember when using the plasma, it does need to have a proper ground and the starting point for the cut has to be conductive to the ground circuit in order to start the cut. Best regards, Allan

By rogerfries Date 02-22-2008 17:54

Painting a nonconductive surface to plasma cut it, That's an awesom tip. I got to try that. I wonder if you had one of those fancy CNC plasma cutters if you could cutout a shape in wood by painting it, or putting a layer of aluminum foil over it? When I get this unit, I have to try this. Not that I can think of a practical application for it right now, but some day it might come in handy.

By aevald

Date 02-22-2008 18:26

I did forget to include one rather important bit of additional information. Whenever you are cutting on anything that has paint, glue, sealer, or some other sort of chemically made up compound, you will need to take great care in providing proper ventilation to avoid poisonous or noxious fumes and smoke, a good respirator wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I have been around a number of artists that utilize various mediums of equipment to provide special effects on many different materials. You may have just mentioned a couple of those. I do doubt that you will actually "cut" the wood, instead you will likely burn it to various depths and widths and the definition of this would likely not be anywhere near that of the laser etched wood that you see. Just a couple of other ideas to ponder. Regards, Allan

By Plasma-Brain (**)

Date 02-22-2008 20:15

hello rogerfries,
aevalds right on the money, in all regards.
Even cutting on something that has alot of rust produces a large volume of a nasty orange smoke, paint and other organics/petrochems are worse.

A clean ground is needed and on some thicker paints and crud you need to scrape/grind/file a start point clean. Usually once the arcs going it will chew through anything in its way. Tipping the torch a few degrees (5 to 10 at most) and pushing the cut will let the plasma burn the junk out of the way and use a little bit of the compressed air to blow it "clean."
It probibly wolnt be as pretty as if you cleaned the cut first, but it will work. If your going to be welding on the cut edge after words, cleaning is going to be needed.

When i first got my cutter i was testing it on everything, including wood. It carved a deep groove into the surface but didnt go more than a half an inch at most before the arc went out.
It didnt seem too good for the machine, which is why i havent tried it again.

Throwin my 2cents in the ring
-Clif

By rogerfries Date 02-25-2008 18:03

Probably produces less smoke that my Ox-fuel tourch!

I just picked up the 1000. Can't wait to get home and fire it up. Thanks for the advice.