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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Online repair please help
- - By jmdugan10 (*) Date 02-29-2008 19:57
10" header with a 6" pipe saddle welded onto the bottom.  316 material.  Two indications in HAZ on either side of the weld spraying liquid starch 315 deg. F.  Client cannot or will not shut down for proper repair.  MAWP 15psi.  UTT shows 0.380-0.400" wall thickness.  Client does not want to wait for a sleeve, or a clamp.  What would you do and why?
Parent - By Bill M (***) Date 02-29-2008 21:02
Wait until they run out of liquid starch?
Parent - By chall (***) Date 02-29-2008 21:14
Under no circumstances would I entertain the idea of doing (or allowing our personnel to do) a repair under these conditions. 

Charles
Parent - By pipewelder_1999 (****) Date 02-29-2008 21:21 Edited 02-29-2008 21:49
On stream leak repair is the safest alternative in my opinion. A clamp on can be made up by a machine shop pretty quick if they have the onstream leak repair experience.
Parent - By raftergwelding (*****) Date 03-01-2008 00:17
tell them good luck and sign here for road rime thank you and have a nice day
Parent - - By darren (***) Date 03-01-2008 01:38
what would i do?
laugh and walk away
why?
obvious
Parent - By dbigkahunna (****) Date 03-01-2008 03:14
If the indications are out of the weld, and UT shows there is not corrosion, you are probably looking at a crack. While you are not looking a flammable product the temperature could result in 3rd degree burns. If you are a welder without on-line repair experience (or even with experience in this case) and this has not been evaluated by a person experienced in these types of repairs or on the type of material, I would walk away from this. I do not see how the compay safety department would sign off on this.
BABRT's 
Parent - - By Joseph P. Kane (****) Date 03-01-2008 19:01
You don't have to walk away from this.  If there is still nominal thickness left in the base metal, there is a frequently used temporary repair.  In my state, (NY) it is even legal as a semipermanent repair.

Fit up a Weld-O-Let to fit into the saddle area.

Then weld the Weld-O-Let into place using a1/8 inch E-6010 root pass.  The steam continues to escape through the open hole.
weld up the rest of the groove with stringer passes using 3/32 or 1/8 inch E-7018.  These small electrodes help prevent burn through.

After the Weld-o-Let is welded out, screw in a 300 PSI rated Hex Plug using Teflon tape.  trim off the excess Teflon Tape, then weld the plug in with 1/8 inch E-6013.  If any pin-holes appear, pound it closed with a punch.  Use E-6013 all the way out.

Why 6013 instead of 6010 or 7018?  If you have a pinhole with 6010 or 7018, the pinhole will follow you to the end of your pass.  6013 doesn't have that problem.
Parent - By DaveBoyer (*****) Date 03-02-2008 04:24
That is an interesting aproach, Joe.
Parent - - By Dr. D (*) Date 03-02-2008 10:57
He said 316 material so I assumed 316 stainless and not 3/16" thickness. Joe would you still use the same approach and electrodes?
Parent - - By Joseph P. Kane (****) Date 03-02-2008 19:21
Thank you Dr, D.  I had read all the negatives on this, and never fully read the initial post.  My error!

I had not read the type 316 part.  So, I would still use a Weld-O-Let as described, but I would use type 309 as first chioce. type 312 as second chioce for the root passes.  I would use 1/16" or 3/32"for the first few passes.   (If there is not too much dripping, you could even use GTA welding). Make sure that there are no weep holes after each pass.  If there are any, try to close them with a pin punch, and put a short stripper pass over them.  You must seal the root passes before you go to the fill and cover passes.  You can even put the plug in temporarily to check the tightness of the weld after you have enough root thickness to prevent blowing the Weld-O-Let off or cracking things further..

It is not necessary to use type 316 electrode, because this is a temporary repair. I would prefer to use type 309 all the way. 
Parent - - By mjjjracing (*) Date 03-02-2008 21:16 Edited 03-02-2008 21:20
Hello,That is how we have been repairing leaks in large water pipelines for years,grab a redwood 2x2 stake that is tapered drive it into the leak,it swells enough to let you weld a coupling onto the pipe and put a plug in the coupling,Map it and when the line is down replace the piping,we do the same on minor steam leaks if the pipe is not too thin we peen the leek and weld threadolets then put a plug in it,works on hydraulics too,Jim
Parent - - By thewelder (***) Date 03-03-2008 08:13
THAT'S what I do on the ammonia lines to (the weld-o-let and the plug) after we check the thigness on the material. 
Parent - - By jmdugan10 (*) Date 03-03-2008 14:22
Thank you all.  I thought they were nuts for asking personally, but I wanted to ask some peers their thoughts.
Parent - By Kix (****) Date 03-03-2008 17:58
I'd start taking bets on how many times it takes a guy to get that first thread started on this one.;-)
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Online repair please help

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