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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / classic 2 problem
- - By jparker Date 03-18-2008 00:42
I've got a problem, I have a 95' Classic 2 w/ a Deutz motor.  Hardly welded with it and only had it on my truck about a month, the machine only has 650 hours on it.  I bought it from a guy who had it in his garage for 2 years.  Anyway, I was building a stand for my vice to sit on, I struck an arc and the macchine flat out quit, I prayed while I pushed the reset button with no luck.  I've been reading other posts and now I think it might be the brushes?  When I bought the machine the guy said he had problems with the local switch.  Also, I live in Colorado where it snows like crazy, could that be the culprit? Any input would be greatly appreciated. thanks jp
Parent - By aevald (*****) Date 03-18-2008 01:19
Hello jparker, I am not familiar with this particular machine, however I do believe it isn't likely that you have done irreparable damage to it either. I might suggest that you carefully remove the sheet metal covers from it and very closely and carefully inspect the underlying wiring and connection points for any obvious signs of excessive corrosion or arcing points of any type, if you do see signs of this sort of thing it might be worth spending a little bit of time carefully cleaning these connection points. Also, you mentioned that the previous owner had indicated that he had some problems with the local switch. I am guessing you are referring to the local/remote switch that is used when you have a remote amperage control connected to the machine, I'm not absolutely sure how these work on the Lincoln machines but on some other machines if this switch is stuck in the remote position or it isn't making proper contact in the local position your machine will not recognize the output settings that you have set and thus won't have output or could have really low output and simply emit very small little sparks when you try to initiate the arc. If you wish to test this switch you could very carefully disconnect the wires that are connected to it taking care to identify them for proper reconnection. Once they are disconnected use a continuity tester to check for continuity from the center pole(s) to one set or the other that is above or below the center set. When this switch is in the upward position you will usually notice continuity between the center pole(s) and the lower pole(s), when the switch is in the downward position you will usually notice continuity between the center pole(s) and the upper pole(s). If this testing checks out, the switch is likely functioning properly, if not I would look to this to possibly be part of your problem. If none of this works and the problem still exists I would defer to the many more intelligent folks of the forum with more experience on possibly this very machine. Best regards, aevald
Parent - By JescoPressure (**) Date 03-18-2008 03:02
jtmcc has a classic 2 maybe he'll chime in if he's around. My buddy has a 96 with the duetz . he had a wire short out in the exciter and it quit like that and he only has 1600 hrs on his
Parent - - By KSellon (****) Date 03-18-2008 14:02
Those big local/remote switches are a pain in the butt, but they won't switch by themselves. So you were welding along and you lost arc? Did you also lose you auxillary (110) power? Does it go to high idle when you try and strike an arc? Answers these and I'll answer and ask some more. It nothing major, so don't get too excited.

code#10071  http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/operatorsmanualdatasheet.aspx?p=32984

There is a fuse behind the control panel, check it. Check your exciter (2) brushes. There is also a bridge rectifier (2"x2" black square component with 4 spade terminals) check the connections to it. The fuse you can get anywhere and the bridge rectifier is part# 035604 $16.00.
Parent - By jparker Date 03-18-2008 23:49
When I first bought the machine I replaced the battery.  The next thing I did was try and fine tune it, so I could use it in the field, noticed it had a cold start.  Thought i would run it for a week and diagnose this problem.  today i took off the doors and the hood and noticed the machine was caked in dirt.  I cleaned all the dirt (and a wasp nest) off and continued to clean all electrical components.  Then I took my volt stick to the outlet and it and wasn't getting current.  I then cleaned battery posts and lugs, still no start.  Then I put my charger on the battery and it was dead, probably wouldn't turn a lawnmower over.  Next step, change battery and go from there.  This forum has helped tremendousely and I really appreciate advice from everyone, thanks j
Parent - - By jparker Date 03-20-2008 00:10
     KSellon, Well I installed another battery and she started up like a charm.  then I checked the parts page and found the fuse.  It is definately blown.I can't even read what it says, although I can barely make out 250?  any specs on that?  Also, I plugged my grinder in and it worked but I didn't strike an arc.
     Next, I can't seem to locate the rectifier bridge, is it right next to the rheostat? in between the relay?  The local/remote switch looks newer the rest of the controls. Anyway, all components behind the control panel are clean and seem to be connected/ free of damage. thank you for the input jp
    
Parent - - By KSellon (****) Date 03-20-2008 14:20 Edited 03-20-2008 14:32
If you are standing at the front of the machine, move around the right side and look just under the rheostat, theres your bridge, the fuse holder sat next to it. But if you have 110 its ok. Did you say you tried to weld with it? Did it idle up? The fuse is a 15amp slo-blow 250v..

If you put a new battery on the machine when you got it approx 2 months ago, you shouldn't already have a dead battery. Something in the charge circuit is faulty.
Parent - - By jparker Date 03-20-2008 19:07
      After replacing the fuse i took my machine over to a friend of mine who knows lincolns.  He put his multi-meter on the old fuse that showed an open circuit.  We were talking and he also tested the positive and negative connections where you plug in your ground and stinger in.  He was talking about ocv and I'm not sure I understand everything, but it's the time it takes the engine to idle up?  Suggested I might take the alternator into a shop to get the current tested.
      Anyway, it welds nice and it doesn't take long to form a puddle in auto idle.  I don't know if it's totally fixed but I know that fuse helped.  KSellon thanks for the info and I might have some more ?'s oh yeah I have to go take a test on Saturday and I feel confident that my machine will be proficient, thanks jp
Parent - - By aevald (*****) Date 03-20-2008 19:21
Hello jparker, the ocv that your friend was referring to is the voltage that is measured across the + and - output lugs on the machine when it is operating on high idle and prior to actually welding. This voltage will be relatively high in comparison to the same voltage test if it is performed during the time that you are welding. This is also a normal condition. Best regards, aevald
Parent - - By jparker Date 03-20-2008 19:38
thats exactly what we did  he had me set both dials on max and ran it while he tested the output lugs, said that something wasn't right because it took about 10 seconds for meter to reach over 100.
Parent - By KSellon (****) Date 03-20-2008 20:10
OCV-- open circuit voltage- this voltage is required to establish an arc. It will bottom out when arc is established and 'rebuild' itself.
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / classic 2 problem

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