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Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Downhill pipe pics
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Parent - - By texwelder (***) Date 06-13-2008 03:08
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but that pic pipeliner04 posted as bottom, looks side to me, either that or grass grows in the sky where he is workin and look at the direction of the bead ??????????
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-13-2008 04:14
yea ill correct you,,,this is the other pic of the bottom but its fuzzy,,,i had to post that other one cause that one was clearer than this one,,,,any more ?????
Attachment: bottom3.jpg (57k)
Parent - - By Jake331 (**) Date 06-13-2008 04:42
I can do better.....
Parent - By Jake331 (**) Date 06-14-2008 03:26
lol just messin around.... I thought I would ge a rise outa him
Parent - By southerngray (**) Date 06-29-2008 05:37
Pipeliner04 look at the pic. "bottom" look at the weld and then look at the top of it I was mistaken about the undercut but if y'all will concentrate on the weld first and then look up at the top I sure look's like undercut I looked at it again and for awhile and I could see that it is not. My mistake keep welding and be you're best   Jimmy
Parent - By chris2698 (****) Date 06-13-2008 11:11
dam nice lookin weld dude real nice wish I could do that
Parent - - By texwelder (***) Date 06-13-2008 12:06
Now that is what I'm talkin about that will work, keep it up, I can see that is the bottom I can see where the two beads meet. Thanks didnt mean any harm.
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-14-2008 03:37
thanks man i appreciate it
Parent - - By fordsux8269 (**) Date 06-14-2008 14:47
Man that is pretty slick do you have any tips for puddle capping with 3/16 7p+ I was welding some 18inch 500. wall and was having some problems with the bottom. i can run stringers all day long just having trouble keeping it from sagging or cratering
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-15-2008 00:15 Edited 06-15-2008 00:18
yea man when you start out on the top just barely keep that rod angle back about 20 degrees toward you to where its almost straight in just like this   //////  those little marks right there should be about your rod angle.  i dont know if your having trouble with your side but when you come across the side if you try to blow that metal uphill your gonna stick it,  when i hit about 2 oclock my rod angle is straight in like runnin a bead,,,but i long arc and just blow it on there.  now,,my machine never comes outta 3rd gear.  i hotpass at 85 and fill at 80,,,but when i fire up on that cap im sittin at 75 til i get to about 2 oclock pipe time,, then the rest is at 70.  if that gives you an idea.  now as for the bottom, especially puddle capping 18inch 500 wall,,you cant just whip across the bottom like your mainlinin.  when i get to about 5 oclock my rod angle is still straight in the pipe like runnin beads and its stays that way because if you angle that rod back your gonna have metal hangin off the pipe. also when i get to the bottom i crank down to about 60 and instead of runnin a horseshoe like most people i run what i call a squareshoe. its square like a staple from a paper stapler instead of an actual horseshoe.   you know when you run that fill pass you got your bead humped up through the middle of the pipe and you still got some bevel wall there at the bottom,,,look at that like wagon tracks.  the way i do it i take my rod and cut down where the filler meets the bevel wall and then backfill that side,,,cut a straight line across to the other side of the bevel and do the same thing.  whip that rod down the other side of the bevel wall where it meets the filler and then backfill it.  when i run a horseshoe it just humps it up real bad so i run it square to flatten it out.  when you cut those bevel walls out and backfill its gonna take care of your undercut on the bottom.  now its not gonna be fast,,itll seem like your down there forever but it sure looks nice when you come up.  now when youve already capped the other side be sure to purposely leave yourself a hump before you drag out or have your partner leave you one.  the tricky part about comin across that bottom button is keepin that rod angle straight in.  now when youre crossin that button,,,youve gotta take longer steps across the bottom button and grab that hump you left down there and use it because your gonna cut it out.  that button will be a hole but if you take longer steps across it when you meet it you wont drag it out and be sure to move a little faster.  then when youve tore that hump down and your above bottom of pipe,,,start steppin it out and long arc it off the pipe and there it is.  i know this is a long explanation but most guys that have problems with cappin the bottom try to blow that metal back towards em to stack it when they should keep it straight in.  try that and if you have anymore questions let me know.
Parent - - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 06-16-2008 00:16
well im no expert welder but here r some pics
Attachment: cap01.jpg (869k)
Attachment: fabwork01.jpg (923k)
Attachment: fabworkonpad.jpg (248k)
Attachment: tackrig01.jpg (751k)
Parent - - By texwelder (***) Date 06-16-2008 01:27
Looks like to me you know your s***, good lookin work man, where you workin at in those pics and are the recent.
Parent - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 06-22-2008 22:11
im workin around mcalester,ok and yeah it was last week i took them pics just tryin my best 2 make a livin. No expert here just a fella tryin 2 get by ya'll have a good day and be safe
Parent - - By 52lincoln (***) Date 06-16-2008 02:38
how does the tack rig work?are the rigs behind you finishing up beading/filling/capping ext.
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-16-2008 03:10
nah your machine comes off your truck and they put it on the tack rig,,,so youve got your own machine to weld with and dont have to take your truck,,,unless the company has theyre own tack rig machines
Parent - - By 52lincoln (***) Date 06-16-2008 03:14
seems like that would be better,save my truck has much as you can,for what they cost now a days LOL!!
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-16-2008 03:17
well the bead hands work off the tack rig and your firin line, fill hands and cadillac(cap) hands take theyre own trucks though,  bead hands should be the fastest on the job,,,but ive been on some runnin cadillac where the bead hands werent fast enough
Parent - - By texwelder (***) Date 06-16-2008 03:21
I've heard that on some pipeline jobs where it is very wet that the company lets the welders build skids to put their rigs on then pull the skids down the line with a dozer is that true?
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-17-2008 02:47
well somewhat true,,,,we lay mats down as many as needed for the welders to drive on,,,matts are about 20 feet by 8 feet of double or triple stacked wood.  they dont pull us down the line but it is easier to drive on the matts
Parent - By texwelder (***) Date 06-17-2008 02:50
I was wondering, one fella told me they did that in LA
Parent - - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 06-22-2008 22:01
our tack rig has its own machines and we bead and hot pass off it not all outfits do it that way but its kinda cool when ur not wearin out ur own equiptment.
Parent - - By kmp (**) Date 06-23-2008 00:36
are they hiring rigs in mcalester?
Parent - By ibeweldingsum (***) Date 06-25-2008 03:10
we need some but i dont know if we are hirin right now
Parent - By Stringer (***) Date 06-17-2008 03:41
Excellent post. I completely concur with staple analogy. Practice that overhead for a couple hundred hours and you should be able to handle pipe welding. Beads are easier than caps in my opinion. Of course this assumes a good fit.
Parent - - By pipeliner2008 (*) Date 06-18-2008 14:15
pipeliner04 if i may ask whet do you run your root bead at and is it a 5/32  5p+ and the rest of the way out you use 70+ 3/16 if i am right thank you
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-19-2008 03:24
well that bead all depends on the fit ya know and the size of the pipe.  12 inch and above is all 5/32 and pipeline over 4 inch ill run a 5 just cause you can stretch em to the bottom.  im guessing you have an ol 200 but i cant really tell you what heat cause thats a secret(haha just bs'n),,,but really ive adjusted my rpm's to where she'll burn a rod faster and bumped the rack up about the THICKNESS of a business card so shell stack more iron.  the OCV's on my machine are set at 94 right now cause were doin station work, between 92 and 94 ocv's is the best range for my 86.  but when i pipeline ill run it at about 98 or 100.  my machines hot so i dont even need to come outta 3rd gear (190 range) ill run a bead and then everything else is 3/16 70+  ill run at hot pass in 3rd and 80 and cap on 3rd and 70.  it really depends on what your machine runs like and if youve tinkered with it.
Parent - - By BigRed (*) Date 06-19-2008 16:25
  What exactly does bumping the rack do.  I do mostly facility, but on occasion I pipeline and find that my 300d won't stack like I would like, even with the kubota turned down to 1650 rpm.  Tell me more about the benifits of bumping the rack.
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-20-2008 04:55
slowing your machine down on rpm's might help you stack more iron,,but when you turn em up your machine will burn the rod faster,,,so all you have to do is move faster.  i bumped my rack towards the alternator side this way it will burn hotter and faster so when you burn faster you can stack metal.  basically excites faster
Parent - - By pipeliner01 (**) Date 06-20-2008 06:04
the best advice I ever got was learn to weld with your machine, however I struggled with a 300d for a year and a half did every trick in the book then traded it for a 56' stubby (shorthood). I'd say unless a fella wants to put alot of time into tinkering don't touch that rack, oh and pipeliner04, I like your style of not coming out of 3rd gear, my stubby only comes out of second gear for 3/16 7018 and 4th gear @40 for 1/4" 7018, as far as making inches on heavy pipe roll welds not much can beat 1/4" 7018, but most contractors that supply rods won't supply it due to metallurgical blah, blah, blah.  I'm sure I'll get blasted by some of the inspectors on here for these non-code tricks, but if ya ain't cheatin' ya ain't tryin' !!!
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-22-2008 00:45
yea i heard that,,,ive tinkered with mine twice in the last 4 years.
Parent - - By ruero (**) Date 06-24-2008 04:19 Edited 06-24-2008 04:21
I have been working mostly on large bore water pipeline using lap joints, 6010 or 7010 all downhand for the last 3yrs. I would like to know the method for open root on gas pipeline welding your tacks, starts and stops, what is the norm for prep? Do you grind a feather edge on each or what?  And what size grinding wheel do you use?
If you brother-n-law does it change the way you tie-in on your starts, stops  and finish?
My experince in process piping in the past using uphand 6010/71018 was to usually grind a sharp feather edge.
I never have been on the cross country gas pipeline but am wanting to get into it.

Thanks rj
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-27-2008 04:42
well dude its pretty simple,,,of course all welds have a bevel,,but the edge isnt featherd,,you gotta put a landing on it.  just take that grinder(i use a 9 inch) and put a blunt face and the end of the bevel about the thickness of a dime or a nickel that way you dont blow the walls completely down and undercut it when you jam your bead in it.  first off make sure both bevel landings line up good,,,the hi -low's good mainly on the inside,,fittings and stuff are bad for hi low on the OD but generally jam up good on the ID.  leave about a 1/16 to 8th inch gap on the top and just tack it.  your gonna have a high point on start where you didnt tie in, forget it,,,tack the bottom and make sure your gap is the same all the way around( this is just for practice of course,,,good all the way around may not be in the bubble if you know what i mean).  once youve got it tacked up,,,take your grinder and grind only the starts,,,the parts that didnt tie in,,feather em down until there about flush with your landing that you put on before you fit it up.  or until they turn blue,,,basically grind it so you can get a bead in it.  take off on the center of your tack and just push that rod until it goes through,,,youll know when it does,,,and be sure that rod doesnt burn to one side,,,you may have to work it a little but make sure you tie in on both sides and just run it down hill.  when you brother n law man,,,one man fires off on the top tack and takes off then the other about the same time.  you should have about a 2 inch tack to get started and your gonna grind it anyway.  when you weld the rest out one man will fire off and itll be hot enough that the other guy will fire off shortly there after and youll be able to tie in good and clean.  you got any more questions just let me know.
Parent - By fordsux8269 (**) Date 06-27-2008 16:56
Yea Ive got one. Do you need a helper or know anyone that does?
Parent - - By ruero (**) Date 06-27-2008 23:58 Edited 06-28-2008 00:05
Thanks pipeliner, it is just pretty much the same as what one does with any but weld I just wanted to make sure. I already knew about all the face, gap, grinding and such just wanted to clarify the tacks. We do the same type of top tie-in with two welders on our lap joint pipe one starts and it is hot for the other, if comes out right looks like a bow-tie.
I also heard that when you bother-in-law you quarter the pipe, any truth to that? Ok gona go do some practicin on that darn branch test all weekend. If I get that down can go for test on a line just 5 min from the house, that is for now.

Thanks again
Parent - - By pipeliner04 (**) Date 06-28-2008 00:04
haha no truth to quartering
Parent - - By rockin d (**) Date 06-29-2008 00:07
10"P/L
Attachment: DonJose2 (0B)
Parent - - By texwelder (***) Date 06-29-2008 02:54
Where was that pic taking, it looks dry? Is it a recent picture?
Parent - - By rockin d (**) Date 06-29-2008 11:09
We are in the devils belly button Zapata Tx. dry, hot, & misserable not even lizards don't come out after noon time pic. taken 6/26/08 2:00 p.m. we hit 110 degrees .
Parent - By rockin d (**) Date 07-03-2008 02:41
more work pics.
Attachment: TieIns (0B)
Attachment: TieIns2 (0B)
Attachment: TieIns3 (0B)
Attachment: TieIns4 (0B)
Up Topic Welding Industry / General Welding Discussion / Downhill pipe pics
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