What size of wire are you using?  Is this on carbon steel?  What size of gap are you using?  Are you using an auto darkening lense or a standard glass one?

If I am doing it with 3/32 wire I have a little bigger than an 1/8" gap.  Rest your feeding hand's elbow on the pipe and lean over/under so you can see the bottom of the joint.  You are going to have to train yourself to look inside of the pipe through the gap and watch the wire.  I hold my torch kinda sideways and walk it / shuffling up the bevel.  This will take time to get good at.  You strike up using touch start since the wire will already be inside of the pipe.  Warm up the end of the tack and when it looks hot enough you will start adding wire.  You do not want to just set it in there because it will becaome fused.  You have to kinda dip it in and pull out but not very far.  Also use the opening in the bevel that is across from the quarter that you are welding.  Like if you are wanting to weld the 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock use the gap at 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.  I would also recommend against trying this while on the company's time pratice during your breaks and such.  Also ask one of the other welders that is doing to give you a lesson or two.

You can also free hand but you will need something thick to put over your middel and/or index finger for when you are osilating the torch.  Also stick out your tungsten aways.  Give a nice long sharp point as well.

Practice makes perfect

I like to backfeed from above the root opening inside the pipe instead of completely through the pipe unless its a very tight spot or the gap closes way up and I can't get a grinder in to open it up. Start with a 5/32" wire for a gap with a 1/8" filler, 85-95 amps. Strike up and warm up the bevel @ the root opening on both sides then dip the wire to the inside of the pipe, bridging the gap Begin traveling forward while "drawing" molten metal off the end of the wire with enough feed to build up enough root deposition. If you find yourself keyholing alot cut down your amperage or feed more wire. Its just a matter of getting comfortable with a different technique. Once you learn it you'll end up getting way more root reinforcement than the people who walk over the wire and be able to confidently walk away from any alloy without having to have someone look you in.

I saw a man do that at the test lab in baton rouge last year. he put the tacks in and fed the wire from the top and welded each side in one motion he just washed over the tacks and kept going. he was testing for a offshore job for shell oil. I tried it a few times never can get it down. The man said he had been doing it that way for about 20 years. If you had not seen him do it you would say it was done by a astro arc machine.

im a lefty too, its pretty easy if you have a bigger gap and drip the the wire with low heat. i usally use that method on stainless pipe.

Well, I haven't read my particular technique.
Close though....
Use a Number 9 wire spacer on 12" and below, long 1 1/2" tacks at 12, 6, 3, and 9 positions on pipe above 6", 1 " tacks on pipe below 6 inches.
After the initial tack, wedge your gap for the remainder of your tacks.
85 -95 amps with 1/8" filler rod. On tack ups, use 2" masking tape across the root opening 2" up the outside the tack area to rock your wire on for the fulcrum.
This steadys the wire and provides a point to rock the wire on to "SEW" the bead in. Feather to 1/16" land on the pipe @ 37 1/2 degree bevel. Feather edge lands on 30 degree bevels.
Grab the end of the wire and lay the wire on the tape to rock it on the inside of the pipe sewing (bridging) the tack bead in on the tacks.
Rock your tungsten up the wall of the pipe to cool the puddle off as necessary should it get too hot and that allows you to get another grip of the wire. The wire stays in contact with the puddle at all times until you've welded all that's needed and roll the puddle outward drying up the wall of the pipe and out leaving no fish eye in the puddle. Feather the tacks on the tie in's
of the bottoms of 3 and 9 positions, both sides of the 12 position. Use the tacks to rock your wire on now and look through the gap to rock the cup and weld 'er up. Laying the cup on the pipe to rock it maintains correct arc gap and the gas force helps push and cool the molten puddle as you progress upwards. Gas flow @ 30 to 35 CFM.  You'll have a thick bead
when your done and you've seen the whole bead sewed in for surety. Get in the habit of putting in beads this way and bad fits with large gaps will be no problem. You'll soon get to where you can sew a bead in a gap that's as large as your thumb with ease. Good luck!
Good "Rock the cup" technique takes practice, lots of practice. Get some!