welder will not weld

Date 09-28-2007 04:05

DaveBoyer, I did a test on the stator and I couldn't seem to find any short, I followed the manuals test procedures and as far as I could tell the stator seems fine, My vom meter dos not go down as far as the manual says, but there wasn't any short.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 09-29-2007 02:53

Good luck, keep us posted.

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 10-14-2007 16:54 Edited 10-14-2007 17:00

Hey DaveBoyer, I have replaced the capacitor bank and I still have no power, I noticed there was allot of sand up in where the windings wire go in to the housing . maybe this could be a problem, My test told me the stator was good but I need to test it again. Thought I would keep you posted. thanks for everything.

By DaveBoyer (*****)

Date 10-15-2007 04:39

Good luck again, there is the posibility that the stator can test OK with an ohm meter, but short out at operating voltage. Motor rebuilders have a device for testing the insulation at high voltage, but I know of no "cheapie" testers for this.

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 10-16-2007 02:00

Well DaveBoyer, I am going to throw up the white flag, I am having our secretary look into the cheapest place to tell me whats wrong. thamks for everything DaveBoyer

By KSellon (****)

Date 10-19-2007 17:42

Guess I haven't been keeping up with this one-

To check the stator for a winding to winding short, requires a low resistance measuring instrument. First remove the weld and auxillary stator leads from their connections inside the machine. Second connect your test instrument to the following leads and measure resistance.

WELD STATOR:
Lead 11 to lead 11C = 0.24560 ohm
Lead N2 to lead 11C = 0.01618 ohm
Lead N2 to lead 11 = 0.00900 ohm

AUXILLARY POWER STATOR:
Lead 1/4 to lead 1 = 0.24817 ohm
Lead 1 to lead 1 = 0.24877 ohm
Lead 1 to lead 1/4 = 0.24789 ohm
Lead 2 to lead 1/4 = 0.06260 ohm

If the readings you get are lower than shown, this would indicate a winding to winding short in the stator

To replace a stator it is recommended that you remove the engine, stator and armature as one assembly.

PC board checks for the Predator (no load)

frame ground to TA = 0VAC
frame grd to EM = 12VDC (idle)
frame grd to 15/34 = 12VDC with ignition switch on
frame grd to OA = 12VDC normal to 0VDC low oil alert
frame grd to FCS = 12VDC to start and run
frame grd to BCL = 12VDC normal
frame to 50 = 12VDC with start button closed
frame to BC = 13VDC at 3800 RPMS
frame to 30 = 12VDC always

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 10-21-2007 01:00

KSellon, I don't have a meter that goes that low, I threw up the white towel, I am having a qualified tech look at it. I really appreciate all that you have done for me. I just don't have the savvy. well it was real fun and cant waite to do something else I know nothing about. Thanks KSellon

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 12-08-2007 22:25

KSellon, The stator was bad, and they told me just what you said, there not very good machines, I aprecieate your help on this. I have another question? where could I get parts for a 73 miller big D4 something to do with a pack? My buddy has one, and I told him I would try to find out were to get parts.

By KSellon (****)

Date 12-10-2007 14:47

Parts are still available thru Miller. Is he talking about the diode 'pack'? Here is a manual. Let me know what I can do for you.

http://millerwelds.com/om/o452j_mil.pdf

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 12-14-2007 23:26

KSellon, He told me he is going to get his welder back from a service place and have them tell him what is wrong, he told me he went to weld with it and had low power,turned it up all the way to get it to weld, shut it off for a month, then started it up and had no power at all? any ideas? Thanks.

By KSellon (****)

Date 12-17-2007 14:44

could be a handful of things. Faulty connection, brushes, diodes, etc. Run thru the checks in the manual, then let me know what you get.

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 02-03-2008 18:12

HI KSellon, I havent herd from my buddy, but I have got my welding machine back and they replaced the stator under warranty. I fired it up and dont seem to go very hot. 1/8 in low-high burns but not hot, Does it need a break in period? at 275 amps it should make the rod glow? What do you think?? I think I will check the RPM's thanks.

By KSellon (****)

Date 02-04-2008 14:11

It needs no break in after stator replacement. Thermal arc will replace the stators for that serial number under warranty, but usually does not cover labor. I usually have to have the customer call and complain to get it done. The fine current control on that machine controls the engine speed. So I would start there.

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 02-05-2008 06:01

I have turned the fine current control all the way up, the main control all the way up, and it wont get hot. I haven't had any time to mess with since I welded with it for the first time, it just didn't seem like it had enough power? Maby thats how they run?

By KSellon (****)

Date 02-05-2008 13:27

somethings not right. 275 amps is 275 amps in every machine. What is the size and length of the cable you are running? Are you sure the stator was replaced with a new one?

By roostenmotherbr (*)

Date 02-08-2008 03:26

Well I am using 2/0 cable and about 25' of lead,25' of ground. I put the darn welding machine on rabbit(or high idle) and still runs cold. the stater looks new, the wires coming out look new with the insulation or wrap around them, looks new? nice and shiny? but I don't know if it is new. They said it was warranted from the factory? I wish it was a miller!!!!!:)